Spray on chrome??

Ozzy

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There was a guy over on hotrodders.com that was messing around with a homemade system. He built his own dual gun spray gun with ss internals
He used silver nitrate for the mirror, aka chrome solution.

he was getting fairly well along with the process that last I read. If I remember correctly he was trying to find a clear coat that would not dull the chrome look and at the same time keep the uv's from turning the shiny chrome look into a dull silver look.

Bottom line, it isn't chrome and is only as durable as the clear coat .
 

BBShark

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That looks like the Alsa system. We have had them do parts at work and they don't look that good. They don't show the clearcoated parts in the video. I think that is the difference, the clearcoat dulls the chrome finish.

If we need to chrome something that is not metal we vacuum metalize it.

Edit: I talked to someone who said the Alsa system actually does work well. Very inexpensive also for the DIY setup:

http://alsacorp.com/chromefx kit/index.html
 
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mrvette

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On my late TT column, I have a real '77? chrome horn button, but the Tele lever/ring is not, just painted, the paint fades in the Florida sun....

and the black vette emblem in the middle is cracked on the surface anyway....

what can be done??

:crutches:
 

68/70Vette

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probably look as good & lasts as long as that spray on hair
:D
That's a pretty good analogy.

A process I have an interest in is vacuum metallization. I've had a couple of contacts with people who do this. Plastic parts are commonly now vacuum metallized. Many of the "chrome bumpers" on modern cars/trucks are actually plastic parts that have been chrome vacuum metallized plated. These plastic plated parts look just like metal chrome plated parts. Consider the chrome license plate holders for 1968 to 1973 Corvettes. You can't really get them perfectly re-chromed since the plating chrome won't get into the nooks and crannies of the assembly. Being exposed to exhaust fumes, the repro parts don't last in perfect form too long before they start to corrode. Over the lifetime of my 68, I've bought a bunch of these things.

Of the two people, I've contacted, they've offered to metallic vacuum deposit chrome on my metallic parts. (These 69 to 73 license plate holders) I have to get them stripped first. I just haven't the priority to now work this issue. Vacuum depositation is generally not as robust as electrolytic plating, but the vacuum process will get chrome into small narrow areas that electroplating won't.

Also, the rear bumpers of 68 to 73's. When you re-chrome them, there's no/scarce chrome in the interior of the "elbows." These areas quickly corrode. (Actually I put some aluminum or "chrome" paint into these areas - can't normally be seen.) I also wonder if the rear bumpers of these cars are also subjects for vacuum metallization. For a garaged car, this might be a good process.
 
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BBShark

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Vacuum metalization is vapor deposited aluminum that requires a clear coat for any kind of long term durability, specially exposed to weather. Most chrome plastic these days is real chrome over ABS plastic.

The license chrome problem is because those parts are rack plated without a proper shaped rack to direct the chrome into those corners.
 

vette427sbc

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I just got a roll of the Alsa chrome wrap to try on my fathers bumper... Looks pretty damn close to real chrome!
Heres a piece next to my bumper:
B241 4306 9255 752D0CBF2F7F 28715 000019662A7E900A

And another test piece on my fathers bumper to see how it shrinks and stretches (color os a bit off from the camera):
88C7 4151 8897 600AD41C5B9F 28715 0000196630B1CFE6
 

vette427sbc

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Went for the final wrap today, but ripped it half way though... :suicide:
Took about 2 hours to get this far. You would have to look really hard to notice this stuff isnt real chrome. Very impressed so far!
EA12 4280 AA01 9218812B887D 30987 00001B0AAC6CA6CA
 

vette427sbc

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2 hours for a small bumper. How long for a car?

What makes it stick? Any tutorial?

I dont know if youve seen a bumper for a '55 chevy in person but they are pretty big (almost 9ft long if it was flattened out). It took that long because it has so many opposing curves on it. Regular body panels would be far easier. A whole car would probably take about 2 days start to finish though.

The wrap is adhesive backed like a vinyl sticker. You can take this off and re-position it without it losing too much stick.

The result is pretty impressive.
My only concern is durability, how this plastic film reacts to rock/gravel impacts compared to actual chromed metal?

Im going to say it would be the same if you painted the bumper... a rock that would chip the paint on your car will probably nick the wrap
 

denpo

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The result is pretty impressive.
My only concern is durability, how this plastic film reacts to rock/gravel impacts compared to actual chromed metal?

Im going to say it would be the same if you painted the bumper... a rock that would chip the paint on your car will probably nick the wrap
Yeah, I was comparing to actually chrome, so kinda off topic.
 

mrvette

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I have a great condition well fitting front bumper for my '72, but the chrome is shot/dull in one section, which prompted a less well fitting, replacement from a show ....Eckler's I think, anyway, I have thought about powder coating the old one, anyone ever try getting a bumper powder coated?? and do they have a powder coating that is a bright chrome surface??

I really pleased with the powder coating on my rocker panels, gas lid, front grill and mirrors.... but they are gloss black....thought of doing all 3 bumpers that way.....Any experiences anyone??
 
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