SBG's C3

Didn't get much done tonight - have to load up to go to Spokane tomorrow - but got the hole cut
surfaced the flywheel - I got lucky because it's a steel that I got basically for free :)
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my UPS (Amazon) girl brought me presents :grin:

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these were an amazing deal - $230 to my door with brackets - I was concerned about the quality... these are nice; now I can stay in my seat, use my harness, and sell my original, black, unripped seats for a lot more than what I paid for these :)

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and the piece de resistance (I always wonder at that phrase, it means dessert but translates to something to make you slower)

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to the whys:
1) they are a site sponsor
2) I don't need a custom system
3) with Summit's price matching, this system costs about the same as piecing one together
4) I have the megasquirt for the Spider so I'm equal opportunity in my buying :)

I am a bit disappointed, I thought I was getting braided SS lines with the system - nope; so I'll probably upgrade that.... so off to work to pay for this :)
 
I learned something new.... the output shaft on a turbo 400/ST-10 is a Corvette only part.... now no need for a shorter shaft

so I tried out my new seats... I think they will fit, it'll be tight, but it will be awesome to have side bolsters!
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and I took the steering column out so I can finish up my tach rebuild what a pain. Normal GM the bottom joint is flexible and you can drop the shaft a bunch.... not so on Corvette, it requires taking the shaft off the steering box

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still undecided on whether I'll keep posting here or not... but while I'm deciding
So, time to update progress.

test fit the seat
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pull the gauge cluster
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pull the tach apart
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new board
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old board
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old board was a replacement board
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epoxy the ring back together
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polish the plastic
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part II
reassemble
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it tested out fine... seems to finally tell me the correct rpms.


enjoy the last look at a two pedals
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so this cute plate holds the brake pedal up
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reference picture
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spring reference
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might as well paint them while they're out
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and yes, silver - makes it easier to see up under the dash
remove booster
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install clutch master cylinder (left of brake hole)
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as an aside, there isn't much room for the master cylinder

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beat it to fit, only paint when it's seen
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look 3 pedals
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everything back in place
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this seems to be the only spot for the reservoir.
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so we'll see how this scoop looks on the car (it's 2 weeks out, so it'll be a bit)
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I figure its benefit is I can draw cold air from the front; and let underhood pressure out the back
 
Hi there,

Please keep posting here! You have much "go" in your work and alot of pictures for refernce! I appreciate it even if i do not post and comment the whole time.

The hole where you assembled the clutch cylinder, what was it for originally??

Regards, Daniel
 
Hi there,

Please keep posting here! You have much "go" in your work and alot of pictures for refernce! I appreciate it even if i do not post and comment the whole time.

The hole where you assembled the clutch cylinder, what was it for originally??

Regards, Daniel

it was blocked, the hole was there in the sheet metal, just not the fiberglass. No idea the purpose. I still would love to find a dual diaphragm booster, but at this point, I'm putting it back together and should I find one tomorrow - it'll be too late.
 
time to connect the pedal to the master cylinder
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That's just a nut welded to a tube that's welded to the heim joint
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It's hard to tell in the pictures, but I did modify one thing. With the hydraulic clutch, I don't need to be 2' off the floor with the pedal.... so I'm not, it's the same height as the automatic brake pedal (I didn't change the rod length for the brake pedal). I'm not short, and wanging my leg into the steering wheel was one of the reasons I hesitated to convert to a manual transmission.
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starting to go back together....
bled and installed. I put the reservoir where I proposed... about the only spot it'd fit
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SBG, I"m 6'5" and age 68 with terminal arthritis, and over the years the mods to my car have been extensive, it was a '72 vette, but it has later shark TT wheel/column in there, one of the early first changes, then I cut the seat track rear support tips off the tracks, lowering the driver seat by almost 2" no carpet or pad under there now, removed seat belt cover for clearance, purposely used old padding so it would sag a bit, all for headroom, about ten years ago I cut the floorboard across the bottom and up to the height of the steering wheel on the sides, forced the plastic forward, and layed in new glass, then cut/bent the gas and brake pedal so to swing them forward about 3" or so, this gave me much more leg room and allows me to swing the wheel around without hitting my knees, my car used to have a muncie in it, but went automatic for the overdrive, much needed here in Florida, not so much in Wash DC region I moved from.....:beer:
 
How to fix dash lights on the cheap

I was putting my car's dash in today - and realized I hadn't ordered the light sockets to repair the dash lights.... I'm not sure it's a Corvette problem, but several of the sockets basically fell of the wire... since I don't have another week to wait to get this car mobile; here's the fix -
oh I forgot - TT warning - you won't like this fix - go away

the problem
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take a small sized wiring lug - and remove the plastic cover
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chop the head off
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the offending wire - I didn't realize - there's the reason I couldn't put the column in today - when they rewired my car with a 77 harness, they moved the dimmer switch to the column.... and it, like every other electronic thing in this car needs replacing....
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slide the housing onto the wire
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and voila... almost like new
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and it works fine.
 
your project looks good and to answer your question back in post 16 or so, yes its always fun to see what some one else is digging into. its really hard to do something to these rides that hasnt been done before. keep up the good work, bob
 
FAST efi

So I finished up my tachometer repair
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I love this EFI... so easy, no soldering, no wrecking yard surfing, no need to run down parts, simply wire a few wires, weld a bung, and plumb a fuel system (not tonight, but everything else)

So here is the injection on the car
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I repurposed the hole for the transmission cable
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almost cried as I ground off ceramic coating (okay, I jest)
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set the computer in place
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I was going to put it in the boxes in behind the seats - but the wires aren't long enough... ah well. I also am finished wiring it. Tach wire, rewire the trigger for the fan, wires to the batteries, and wire to switched power (which was recently vacated by the fan switch).
 
Big empty spot where a tank has been removed
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Stainless tank, some assembly required
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tacked together
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baffle for the tank
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next steps, lay out the vent, supply and return lines
 
Do you purge with argon or use paste when you tig ss?

I'm interested in the details of ss welding.
 
I use 100% Argon as shielding gas. 2% thoriated tungsten. I don't use any paste, rather I make sure the weld path is clean.

IMO Stainless is the easiest metal to weld because it has fewer impurities to pollute the weld.
 
Got some more stuff done
1) scoped out new gas cap and what it'll take to install
2) removed a/c box, started building a box to keep the heat/defrost

New gas cap
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a little small for the hole
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Deleted a/c box
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the box is a lot more diced now, and I'm hella itchy (fiberglass).... probably finished product will look like this (only metal)
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$190 for that one at acdelete.com; that's a bit spendy, but would be stopped on my fuel system install if I bought it and then waited for it to be delivered... and I'm already behind since the new car is arriving tomorrow am.
 
the cut apart box
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and while I was down there (had to measure something)
I put the tank up to see how it fits
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