stinger12
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good choice.
Rear bearings - setting endplay
- Thread starter MYBAD79
- Start date
Help Support VetteMod Forum:
good choice.
turtlevette
The Turdle
If I had to do this every 5000 miles I would slip fit, no doubt
some C3ers will be dead before they ever put that many miles on their car.
and some will be dead before they ever get their car on the road.
I'm curious, Have you ever driven a C3?
MYBAD79
Moderator
Update:
I worked on the new spindles today and drilled the holes for 1/2" Moroso studs. I also tapped the rivet holes 3/8".
.
Painted the spindles with self etching primer (nasty stuff):
Pressed the studs in the hole (43/64" for .585" knurl)
had to cut a small section off the shoulder to clear the raised surface on the hub:
.
.
Both done:
Bearing assembly on setup tool (slip fit spindle):
More tomorrow...
I worked on the new spindles today and drilled the holes for 1/2" Moroso studs. I also tapped the rivet holes 3/8".
.
Painted the spindles with self etching primer (nasty stuff):
Pressed the studs in the hole (43/64" for .585" knurl)
had to cut a small section off the shoulder to clear the raised surface on the hub:
.
.
Both done:
Bearing assembly on setup tool (slip fit spindle):
More tomorrow...
GTR1999
Gearhead
check the stud alignment with a rotor before you go too far. 3" studs can be a PITA to align.
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
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Karsten,
What sort of lug nuts are you planning on using that are compatible with those studs and the aluminum wheels?
What sort of lug nuts are you planning on using that are compatible with those studs and the aluminum wheels?
Last edited:
MYBAD79
Moderator
They're too long anyways. I'll cut half of the stud off.
I have chosen these because it's the same size knurl as the 5/8" studs that I am using on the front.
With the stock aluminum rims and my 2" flares I am using a 2" wide adapter to fill the flares. I cannot use a 5/* stud because the nut is too large and there's not enough meat on the adapter.
I'll press 5/8" studs into the adapter so it matches the front. I used a countersink on the rims to make a 5/8" lug nut with tapered seat fit.
If I ever get 18" wheels I'll simply swap the rear studs with the 5/8" studs and drill the rims to fit.
I have chosen these because it's the same size knurl as the 5/8" studs that I am using on the front.
With the stock aluminum rims and my 2" flares I am using a 2" wide adapter to fill the flares. I cannot use a 5/* stud because the nut is too large and there's not enough meat on the adapter.
I'll press 5/8" studs into the adapter so it matches the front. I used a countersink on the rims to make a 5/8" lug nut with tapered seat fit.
If I ever get 18" wheels I'll simply swap the rear studs with the 5/8" studs and drill the rims to fit.
MYBAD79
Moderator
Today's progress:
Got both of these trailing arms done :bump:
Here's a photo of the setup tool and the indicator. The indicator shows +.002" because I am pushing the spindle upwards (Can't see my hand on this photo).
.
The indicator shows .000" when the spindle is released:
.002" endplay - just like the docytor ordered :bounce::quote::bump:
OK, here's an overview of all the parts: spacer sleeve, shim, bearings
.
Outer bearing installed on slip fit spindle (setup tool):
Spacer sleeve and shim installed:
.
This is a photo that shows how these parts go together inside the bearing carrier:
.
Got both of these trailing arms done :bump:
Here's a photo of the setup tool and the indicator. The indicator shows +.002" because I am pushing the spindle upwards (Can't see my hand on this photo).
.
The indicator shows .000" when the spindle is released:
.002" endplay - just like the docytor ordered :bounce::quote::bump:
OK, here's an overview of all the parts: spacer sleeve, shim, bearings
.
Outer bearing installed on slip fit spindle (setup tool):
Spacer sleeve and shim installed:
.
This is a photo that shows how these parts go together inside the bearing carrier:
.
MYBAD79
Moderator
Installed outer bearing with lots of grease into the carrier:
.
Carrier turned over and installed onto trailing arm. The caliper bracket is also installed:
.
You might have noticed that I am painting the parts as I go ...
.
Backing plate installed:
Emergency brake installed:
I installed two long springs instead of one short/one long... make sure you look at all parts before you assemble, luckily I caught the mistake in time :
.
.
Pressing the carrier onto the spindle - thank you Summitracing for this low dollar made in China press that fits my budget and got the job done:
.
Spindle flange torqued and locked (thanks for the flange Mike (69427)):
.
and the other side in its beauty:
.
Carrier turned over and installed onto trailing arm. The caliper bracket is also installed:
.
You might have noticed that I am painting the parts as I go ...
.
Backing plate installed:
Emergency brake installed:
I installed two long springs instead of one short/one long... make sure you look at all parts before you assemble, luckily I caught the mistake in time :
.
.
Pressing the carrier onto the spindle - thank you Summitracing for this low dollar made in China press that fits my budget and got the job done:
.
Spindle flange torqued and locked (thanks for the flange Mike (69427)):
.
and the other side in its beauty:
MYBAD79
Moderator
hmmm... seriously thinking about new rotors... the rusty old rotors might not look too good.... :sweat:
GTR1999
Gearhead
put on the new rotors and dial them in. The PB drums will be better inside as well.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Guys, what is the approx distance between the inner and outer bearing....thickness of the shim in the middle?? 1" 2"???
GTR1999
Gearhead
Gene,
What I do now is to parallel grind the spacers first, most of them are all beatup and some out as much as 005". Once I have them parallel I use a master shim I ground to see what I need to get me 0015 endplay oiled. I have found one set of spacers was so beatup by the time I cleaned them up the lg diameter end was NG, the radius inside was binding. I had to replace them both, but otherwise most all are reusable. So the shim thickness will vary, those shim kits are total BS, way too wide to dial in sizing to get the endplay. Just another part sold that is not what it seems. I found the shim ranges from .120-.135 most times but I never pay much attention to one job size vs another as long as there is no binding and the endplay is the same from the setup tool to the final torque and check.
What I do now is to parallel grind the spacers first, most of them are all beatup and some out as much as 005". Once I have them parallel I use a master shim I ground to see what I need to get me 0015 endplay oiled. I have found one set of spacers was so beatup by the time I cleaned them up the lg diameter end was NG, the radius inside was binding. I had to replace them both, but otherwise most all are reusable. So the shim thickness will vary, those shim kits are total BS, way too wide to dial in sizing to get the endplay. Just another part sold that is not what it seems. I found the shim ranges from .120-.135 most times but I never pay much attention to one job size vs another as long as there is no binding and the endplay is the same from the setup tool to the final torque and check.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Thanks Gary, but I was trying to get straight in my mind how much distance from one bearing to another, roughly....as compared to the front end, for instance....I think the front end is like 3-4" between bearings.....from look of the pix there I say about 1.5"?......just a race to race measure on a tape is good enough.....
thanks....
GTR1999
Gearhead
The new spacer I have here is 1.660" add in about a .130" shim so about 1.790" between races.
SmokinBBC
Well-known member
Karsten,
Quick Question. How did you keep the spindle from turning when you torqued down the flange nut? (Post #38). Also, I believe that the torque is 100ftlbs and you increase the torque to line up the cotter pin holes rather than backing off on the nut?
Paul
Quick Question. How did you keep the spindle from turning when you torqued down the flange nut? (Post #38). Also, I believe that the torque is 100ftlbs and you increase the torque to line up the cotter pin holes rather than backing off on the nut?
Paul
MYBAD79
Moderator
This is a slip fitted spindle that I use as a setup tool only - I simply clamped the vice jaws on the hub on the outboard side of the spindle.
During final assembly with the new spindle I used aluminum protectors on the vice jaws and used the wheel studs to prevent the spindle from rotating.
100lbs/ft is not all that much torque, the wheel studs can take it... I tightened a little more to line up the cotter pin hole, did not back up the nut...
During final assembly with the new spindle I used aluminum protectors on the vice jaws and used the wheel studs to prevent the spindle from rotating.
100lbs/ft is not all that much torque, the wheel studs can take it... I tightened a little more to line up the cotter pin hole, did not back up the nut...
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