question on rear suspension

I raised the car under the rocker panels with jacks both front and back. If I can get it close to the AIM curbed values the height is just right. Could have been a tad lower, but overall the stance is not that bad, very stock looking.

Like I said, riding on those rubbers is dangerous. During one of my rides, I was cornering and accelerating. Car probably went on the rubbers on the outside corner, due to the engine being in its power band and the cornering power due to the speed. I was attentive enough to get my foot off the throttle or I would have ended up in the ditch besides the road.
On a second occassion I was driving over a speed bump (low, but not very low speed as I usually do). Car went down on the rubbers in the back which I felt like a blow in my back, bounced back immediatly and became very unstable in the rear.

Only way to prevent that was with the koni's on highest setting, but that was like driving with no suspension at all. Hard as rock.
We have some concrete roads here. They are concrete because the Leopard tanks go over them a lot. Not the most even road, but when I went over those with the koni's at the highest setting, my teeth would rattle out of my mouth, that hard kind of suspension setting.

Wil see what the stock spring buys me for ride height. Got me a pair of 78 Original FE7 springs and FE7 front stabiliser bar + back to the rubber bushings (as I believe that the rubber provides some friction to the rotating motion of the bar where the poly doesn't do jack in that area but keep the bar in place.

Luckily I've got my own alignment rack to deal with the realignment afterwards. So besides a couple of hundred dollars the rest is work.
 
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Thanks for that link.

Need to keep them below 1". Those with that height are only the round ones with no progressive rate. I can hardly imagine something like that doing something in the sense of dampening the blow when the suspension does bottom out.

You'd be surprise to see how little suspension travel there still is with the car lowered. In the back I can hardly get 2 fingers between the arm and the stops. In the front maybe 2 and a half fingers.
 
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Back in '95 I had the rear suspension totally rebuilt because I didn't know jack about it.....Tony's Corvette shop in G'burg Md.....I used Energy suspension for the front bushings, and the rear spring was proven to be a great choice for ME at 360 lbs....with Bilstein sport shocks....street driver, not raced.....
the rear is stock rubber bushings.....on the arms....but I have a plastic 360 spring in rear.....same shocks.....

Except for the eventual failure of the upper CA bushings I replaced them myself with stock rubber inserts....fine, and with a cross support....for some years now....

And yes, I would like to lower the car a bit, but have NO clue how to do it without maybe rubbing the larger tires on the fenders.....and if I cut springs, I can't just magic redo them.....:shocking::ill:

Well, lowering is not the real problem. A 550 lbs up front and a longer bolt in the back and you're there + suspension alignment.
However, you'll end up with what I have here right now. It's good for looks but it rides like shit if you get on her good.

Everything I've done to my car can be undone for this reason. Call me crazy, but it saved my butt a couple of times already.

I'm about to believe that those engineers at GM didn't fubar our cars as much as we believe. Not everything is done for beancounters, although we would like to believe that.
 
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