One day.... It will be a race car!
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OZgreen69
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YES!! Much safer, as some highly priced piece of machinery are on the track with you. So you really do not want to be the As...le who wrecked a 1930 something Talbot Lago Grand Prix !!!
OZgreen69
Well-known member
I re assembled the front upper and lower arms with Torrington roller bearings, instead of solid bushings.
And working on rebuilding the steering box. This is apparently a brand new one that I have, but with large free play in the shaft bushes. So I will have some bushes machined to suit the shaft.
And working on rebuilding the steering box. This is apparently a brand new one that I have, but with large free play in the shaft bushes. So I will have some bushes machined to suit the shaft.
rtj
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I re assembled the front upper and lower arms with Torrington roller bearings, instead of solid bushings.
And working on rebuilding the steering box. This is apparently a brand new one that I have, but with large free play in the shaft bushes. So I will have some bushes machined to suit the shaft.
Let us know how those bearings hold up. They almost look like linear bearings. I would have probably made brass bushings, if didn't want poly.
JPhil
Huh?
[QUOTE
And working on rebuilding the steering box. This is apparently a brand new one that I have, but with large free play in the shaft bushes. So I will have some bushes machined to suit the shaft.[/QUOTE]
Have you read Gary Ramadei's (GTR 1999) write up about rebuilding steering boxes? It's in the Tech/Rebuilding Tech section.
And working on rebuilding the steering box. This is apparently a brand new one that I have, but with large free play in the shaft bushes. So I will have some bushes machined to suit the shaft.[/QUOTE]
Have you read Gary Ramadei's (GTR 1999) write up about rebuilding steering boxes? It's in the Tech/Rebuilding Tech section.
OZgreen69
Well-known member
This is maybe a better view of the assembly.
You can see the machined sockets in the arm. And the bearing who takes load in a linear AND radial way. A sleeve goes inside, shoulder against the radial bearing and abut on the black stepped shim. The red poly rings are there for dust, a touch of cushioning and mainly for appearances.
I have seen this set up on other race cars working well and reliable,especially when the ruling forbid rose joints.
It is like the original rubber/poly set up, but made for bearings.
JPhil, thanks for mentioning the tech section. This is where I find most of the information I need.:thumbs: And thanks to Gary for sharing his experience.
You can see the machined sockets in the arm. And the bearing who takes load in a linear AND radial way. A sleeve goes inside, shoulder against the radial bearing and abut on the black stepped shim. The red poly rings are there for dust, a touch of cushioning and mainly for appearances.
I have seen this set up on other race cars working well and reliable,especially when the ruling forbid rose joints.
It is like the original rubber/poly set up, but made for bearings.
JPhil, thanks for mentioning the tech section. This is where I find most of the information I need.:thumbs: And thanks to Gary for sharing his experience.
rtj
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This is maybe a better view of the assembly.
You can see the machined sockets in the arm. And the bearing who takes load in a linear AND radial way. A sleeve goes inside, shoulder against the radial bearing and abut on the black stepped shim. The red poly rings are there for dust, a touch of cushioning and mainly for appearances.
Looks good. Let us know how it holds up over time.
OZgreen69
Well-known member
Started to reassemble the chassis, still knowing that I need to look inside the diff as I noticed that it has been rebuilt with the "snow flake" posi discs ! Not a good sign for the rest maybe !?
And I did the fire wall, trans tunnel and diff with alloy tape to keep a bit of heat away
And I did the fire wall, trans tunnel and diff with alloy tape to keep a bit of heat away
OZgreen69
Well-known member
I finished the steering box in 45 minutes after waiting nearly 3 weeks for the dial torque wrench to arrive. I don't regret the money one second, as the readings from my wrist to compare with the wrench were completely different !! I needed way more preload than expected. Anyway following the instructions from Gary , the box feel right . I understand now when Gary say that you cannot do it on the car. So right.
And I fiddled with the linkages of the gearbox. Wasn't happy with previous ones I redid it using some CroMo tubing and rose end joints. Way more accurate now. But not easy to bend those tube !!
And I fiddled with the linkages of the gearbox. Wasn't happy with previous ones I redid it using some CroMo tubing and rose end joints. Way more accurate now. But not easy to bend those tube !!
OZgreen69
Well-known member
Yes, it is much better than the original bodged system in place that I try to improve and still looking way average ! This and a gear-stick bracket who is not flexing anymore, I should be the only one to blame to miss a gear change.
Now I am working on the rear diff, finding that the so called race ready diff by the P.O is far from even doing the pre grid !! Why to spend big money on a new GM ring and pinion and using old bolts for the ring, new posi case and using a worn gear shaft and the rest ? I will post some pictures !
Now I am working on the rear diff, finding that the so called race ready diff by the P.O is far from even doing the pre grid !! Why to spend big money on a new GM ring and pinion and using old bolts for the ring, new posi case and using a worn gear shaft and the rest ? I will post some pictures !
OZgreen69
Well-known member
I have started on the diff.
Fitted the bearing caps, one in steel from Tom's.
And on the posi casing.
Should be OK now.
Waiting for parts coming from Gary, and I should have a not too bad rear end.
Fitted the bearing caps, one in steel from Tom's.
And on the posi casing.
Should be OK now.
Waiting for parts coming from Gary, and I should have a not too bad rear end.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
very nice
OZgreen69
Well-known member
Following the drama of the diff and waiting for GTR1999 to solve my problems, I am amusing myself ( To copy a well known member! ) with fitting a spacer on the front wheel bearings , reducing front discs run out and starting to check the front bump steer.
And the body should come back from the paint shop really soon. :yahoo:
And the body should come back from the paint shop really soon. :yahoo:
What does the spacer on the front wheel bearings do?
OZgreen69
Well-known member
This kind of spacer allow you to adjust the play in your bearings in a more accurate way with a shim ( in my case ) instead of doing it with the castle nut . In a similar way used for the rear wheel bearing.
As the free play is reduced to a minimum, and in a more solid fashion , it will reduce the knock back of the brake pads and should reduce the pumping movement of the brake caliper pistons ( lip seal air intake ).
This is more for track use than street, however ?
As the free play is reduced to a minimum, and in a more solid fashion , it will reduce the knock back of the brake pads and should reduce the pumping movement of the brake caliper pistons ( lip seal air intake ).
This is more for track use than street, however ?
OZgreen69
Well-known member
Brake calipers ready to see some action, well I hope at the end of the year.
I should start on the front caliper reinforcing brackets as well. uhmmm!!
I should start on the front caliper reinforcing brackets as well. uhmmm!!
OZgreen69
Well-known member
This set is just standard casting with different pistons and seals.
redvetracr
Well-known member
whats the point of double pin pads if you don`t run a "L" shaped pad?
OZgreen69
Well-known member
This was the point that I mentioned to the PO when presented with the brakes !
Well! I do have some faxes between him and Guldstrand himself, explaining how to do it (with drawings ) and receipts for sets of brake pads already modified in the USA. So... Go figures !!
But yeah ?? The rigidity's gone then ??
The good point is the calipers have more modern square seals and pistons in them now. Again, nothing wrong with a good set of J56.
Well! I do have some faxes between him and Guldstrand himself, explaining how to do it (with drawings ) and receipts for sets of brake pads already modified in the USA. So... Go figures !!
But yeah ?? The rigidity's gone then ??
The good point is the calipers have more modern square seals and pistons in them now. Again, nothing wrong with a good set of J56.
OZgreen69
Well-known member
Yes RTJ, you are right about the extra rigidity of the caliper, but the pads have lost some. But again, apparently the calipers are flexing more than the pads!
I don't know, I have no experience with those brakes.
Maybe Redvetracr will share his experience.:friends: !!
I don't know, I have no experience with those brakes.
Maybe Redvetracr will share his experience.:friends: !!
rtj
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OZgreen69
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At last, the diff is finished and back in the chassis.
OZgreen69
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Yes !! A shocking ride !!:rofl:
OZgreen69
Well-known member
I thought that I could show you a pic or two of my new painted body. You will recognize right away the particular racers that inspired me!
