SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
now I do feel old, there's an "old" school carbon? do they hang out on a carbon forum and grump about those 'kids' these days?
Old Project Revitalized - 56 Track Car
- Thread starter mfain
- Start date
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mfain
Well-known member
Here is another project moving along slowly. I am finishing the buck for my hood - working on symmetry and finish sanding. I will pull the carbon skin off the top of the buck to leave exposed carbon fiber on the bottom (underside of the hood) and will add one layer of fiberglass on top to serve as a "sanding surface" to prevent the CF from printing through the paint. Then I will bond the skin to the inner frame.
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phantomjock
Well-known member
Pappy -
Details as you have time - please. You said;
The yellow tape is suspicious as if maybe doing a vacuum - that is why I ask.
Your skill with making these 2-part assemblies is very, very good. This hood will be awesome - and no weight at all. You are making me re-look at some of my pieces that are "dense" and thinking I need to revisit some. Thanks for the "challenge"!
Cheers - Jim
Details as you have time - please. You said;
Are you pulling a vacuum on the lower hood section with the CF - or doing all open layups?
The yellow tape is suspicious as if maybe doing a vacuum - that is why I ask.
Your skill with making these 2-part assemblies is very, very good. This hood will be awesome - and no weight at all. You are making me re-look at some of my pieces that are "dense" and thinking I need to revisit some. Thanks for the "challenge"!
Cheers - Jim
mfain
Well-known member
Hey Jim,
I vacuum bag small, complex parts, but for the hood (and roof), I will do open lay-up using rollers and squeegees to clear any air bubbles and reduce the amount of resin in the finished product. It will be a little heavier than vacuum bagged, but not a lot. I use vinyl ester resin for the parts that have a fiberglass outer level for paint purposes. Epoxy resin does not work with fiberglass. I use epoxy for anything structural. The yellow tape you see is just to establish lines for symmetry measurements. Here are some photos of wet laid and vacuum bagged parts:
Brake Ducts Molds
Brake Duct Top wet laid before modifications (scoop for power steering air)
Panels behind the grill to complete a pre-radiator diffuser. They were all vacuum bagged. The small wing (in the middle) goes behind the grill center bar and may provide some downforce, but is mainly to divert more high pressure air up higher on the radiator.
I know BBShark won't like my thumbnails. If someone will tell me how to make the photos larger I will start doing that. ?
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I'm not sure how you are doing the pictures now but I make them bigger by saving the image address which looks like this (without the xxxx):
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=xxxxx
when you post a picture there is an image icon that looks like a yellow mountain picture. That will add
Or you can download the picture to "image hosting" in the top header.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=xxxxx
when you post a picture there is an image icon that looks like a yellow mountain picture. That will add
Or you can download the picture to "image hosting" in the top header.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
those look great i have never done anything like that, i need tolearn how do do it becasue it looks fun
mfain
Well-known member
A Viper track buddy of mine and I bought 6XD sequential transmissions at the same time. He has his on track (I still have a ways to go), and it works like a champ. We track at Inde in Wilcox Arizona, and last week he beat the NASA TTU track record by six seconds! Here is a video of the sequential in action you may like: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imifL0iQ1e0[/ame]
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
wow, that's awesome
mfain
Well-known member
About to stick the real motor in for the first time. A big chunk of aluminum for a small hole.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
wow that looks awesome, you almost need a glamour shot of just the engine!
Wow! Almost to nice to hide under the hood. :amazed:
mfain
Well-known member
It fit. Also, notice the changes I am making to the roof - eliminated the 1" tall header stainless to try to cut down some drag.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
wow wow wow....looks awesome
what exactly is the engine and components? did i miss that post?
what exactly is the engine and components? did i miss that post?
mfain
Well-known member
515 CI, big bore (4.6") short stroke (3.875"), 13:1 BBC. Hipped Brodix aluminum block and BB-3X heads. Callies ultra billet crank and rods, Comp Cams solid roller on roller cam bearings, T&D shaft rockers, Hogan sequential intake with 2200 cfm Wilson throttle body, Dan Olsen valve covers with spring oilers, Daily Signature billet dry sump pump and pan, Motec ECU.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
i need to add some WOWs!!! very nice
phantomjock
Well-known member
+ WOW! [How soon do we get to see it on the DYNO?]
Cheers - Jim
Cheers - Jim
mfain
Well-known member
My MoTec tuner is working on calibrating the DBW throttle, and Brown and Miller is building oil and fuel lines as I send them specifications. Things move slow. The motor was on an engine dyno for break-in after it was built. Cutting it off early (6800 rpm) and with a fat AFR and only 34 degrees of timing, it made 852 hp and 685 ft/lbs torque. My tuner thinks it will eventually make closer to 900 hp, and that should be close to 800 whp. Probably enough.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
mfain
Well-known member
For those interested in converting a throttle body (or carb) to drive-by-wire, here is how the linkage from the BMW drive motor to the Wilson Dominator TB worked out. No slop and the throttle position indicators on the drive motor and TB stay in sync. I had to remove the throttle return spring from the primaries in the TB, but if you lose the linkage the MoTec ECU will shut the motor down if there is a discrepancy between the TPS's.
Attachments
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phantomjock
Well-known member
Pappy -
Me likey! Offers a wider set of mounting options. One more thing I'll have to research (BMW - eh?) Source/PN as time permits. Thanks!
Cheers - Jim
Me likey! Offers a wider set of mounting options. One more thing I'll have to research (BMW - eh?) Source/PN as time permits. Thanks!
Cheers - Jim
Interesting. I the accelerator pedal w/ position sensor from a BMW also?
mfain
Well-known member
Painting the dash so I can put the windshield back on. It's a GM slate grey that looks more silver in some light, blue-grey in different light.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
love it.
mfain
Well-known member
The forum has been slow lately, so I'll post up a couple of photos.. Time to start adding safety equipment - 10# Safecraft fire suppression system, 2.5# Safecraft fire extinguisher with Joe's Racing Products quick release, and a Safecraft FIA right side window net.
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As usual. Beautiful work!
bobs77vet
Well-known member
Wow it looks great. how much of a formal blue print or project plans do you have worked out for this project.
mfain
Well-known member
No blue print or project plans - mostly just evolution. I started with the NASA and SCCA rule books and worked toward compliance. Then the plan was: properly designed suspension, big power, big tires, big brakes, aft CG, and light weight. The "bigs" were in conflict with light weight. Then, aero came around - designed for 2-4 mile road courses with a top speed of 175 mph. Evolutionary improvements included changes to front and rear suspension components, aluminum motor for weight, MOTEC ECU for sequential injection in place of a carburetor, body mods to accommodate even larger tires, sequential transmission, and carbon fiber to reduce weight.
