Old Project Revitalized - 56 Track Car

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Just ordered a 6XD sequential transmission, and I had to learn a few things. The trans can do no-lift, WOT, clutchless upshifts with a momentary ignition cut. The trans has a load cell (strain gauge) built in to detect pressure on the shifter, and that activates the ignition cut (milliseconds) through the ECU. No problem. But to get the no-clutch downshifts you need a throttle auto-blip. My Wilson throttle body is manual linkage - oops.
Turns out I can add an in-line throttle control motor (the Trans Am TA1 guys do it with their carbureted 900hp NASCAR motors) and a DBW throttle and, using the strain gauge inputs, get the required auto-blip through the MoTec ECU. So the parts are ordered and the trans has a 5-week build time, but I have plenty of other stuff to do while I wait for parts.

Pappy
 
Wow the aftermarket has come a long way. I had no idea that technology was available.
 
Wow the aftermarket has come a long way. I had no idea that technology was available.

Yeah, pretty neat stuff. Here is a link to 6XD: https://www.6xdgearbox.com/

CNC machined case, and the dog rings are machined so they are not part of the gear(s), so when you round off the teeth on the dog rings you just replace them and not the gear set. I chose a very close ratio with 1-to-1 5th gear and a .885 sixth gear which gets me to 175 mph @ 7000 rpm. The shifts drop me from 7000 rpm to between 5800 and 5900 rpm, with my peak torque occurring at 5850. My motor is so far back that their best option for shifter placement was still too far back, so they are providing me the C6 linkage that has a shift rod running back to the C6 transaxle mounted gearbox. All I will have to do is shorten the shaft and fab a mount for the shifter where it puts the stick right next to the steering wheel for easy bump shifts. It will take some chassis dyno time to tune the MoTec ECU for proper ignition cut and auto-blip, and you can do that for each gear separately if desired. I'll be damned if I am going to let those pesky DCT-equipped Porsche GT-3s outshift me on the straights like they do to my Viper. LOL Not having to heel-toe in a cramped foot box is a nice side benefit. :drink:
 
Nice. Made in the USA. They must use gforce internals, as I see the word “stock” and that their partner is gforce in the write-up. But, I might have misunderstood. Should be a cool car. :thumbs:
 
Nice. Made in the USA. They must use gforce internals, as I see the word “stock” and that their partner is gforce in the write-up. But, I might have misunderstood. Should be a cool car. :thumbs:

Good eye. The photo of the trans on their website has a sticker that says "G Force Internals" on it.
 
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Wow the aftermarket has come a long way. I had no idea that technology was available.

I'll be damned if I am going to let those pesky DCT-equipped Porsche GT-3s outshift me on the straights like they do to my Viper. LOL Not having to heel-toe in a cramped foot box is a nice side benefit. :drink:

irritating Germans is such a fun pass-time. :thumbs:
 
Wow the aftermarket has come a long way. I had no idea that technology was available.

I'll be damned if I am going to let those pesky DCT-equipped Porsche GT-3s outshift me on the straights like they do to my Viper. LOL Not having to heel-toe in a cramped foot box is a nice side benefit. :drink:

irritating Germans is such a fun pass-time. :thumbs:

Way back in early 60's at Univ of Md.....we had a dorm buddy, names HAL....can't recall last name......so we used to call him Sour Kraut.....he was thick German accent......

:p:shocking:
 
A couple of new items. JJ Furillo (Ultimate Performance) finished building up my JRi shocks. Pac spring bump stops and 550# springs as a starting point. The second photo is the BMW throttle drive motor. I will use a GM DBW throttle pedal hooked to the drive motor to convert my Wilson throttle body to DBW. That way, I can use the ECU to provide an ignition cut for WOT, no-clutch upshifts and a "smart" throttle blip for no-clutch downshifts with the sequential transmission.

Pappy

JRi Shocks.jpg

DBW Throttle Drive Motor.jpgJRi Shocks.jpgDBW Throttle Drive Motor.jpg
 
A couple of long-lead items are starting to roll in. I haven't received the sequential transmission yet (due to be shipped next week), but I did get the remote shifter. Since my motor is so far back, a shifter in the normal spot on the transmission was way too far back, so 6XD provided me with a prototype remote shifter designed for a C6 Corvette application. It will connect to the transmission's internal shift mechanism with a heim'd rod. Very simple and clean. The shifter handle is carbon fiber and the button on top is for solenoids to allow you to shift to neutral or reverse. I also got the Finspeed wheels - forged one-piece (12X18f and 13X18r).

6XD shifter.jpg

Finspeed Front Charcoal.jpg6XD shifter.jpgFinspeed Front Charcoal.jpg
 
It has been pretty quiet on the forum lately, so I'll do a quick update. Finished the necessary chassis mods to install the 6XD sequential transmission. It fit well and the rear mounted starter cleared just fine. Mark Williams is building a new drive shaft as the one I had was too short for this transmission after I removed the Tremec. I need to build the brackets for the remotely-mounted shifter that is connected to the trans with a single push-pull rod. The conversion to a DBW throttle is complete and my ECU harness is being modified for plug-and-play to facilitate no lift upshifts and no-clutch downshifts. Progress.

Trans Install 1.jpg

Trans Install 4.jpgTrans Install 1.jpgTrans Install 4.jpg
 
...is building a new drive shaft as the one I had was too short for this transmission after I removed the Tremec.
Pappy - How long is the previous one? Might fit my setup?
If available and fits - "Let's Make A Deal!"


Cheers - Jim

Jim,

I'll check tomorrow - it is pretty short - about 18.5 or 19 inches - 7075 aluminum with a Mark Williams split yoke. There is a photo of it in post #77 of this thread.
 
Built the bracket to mount the remote shifter for the sequential transmission off a frame crossmember. That moves the shifter forward 14 inches and puts it close to the steering wheel for a better shifting position.

Pappy
Shifter Mount 1.jpg

Shifter Mount 2.jpg

Shifter Mount 3.jpgShifter Mount 2.jpgShifter Mount 3.jpgShifter Mount 1.jpg
 
Pappy- are you a fabricator/car builder by trade? Or just an insanely skilled hobbyist?? Everything on this car is so well thought out and executed. And the hardware is enough to make anyone jealous. Can’t wait to see this car put through its paces :drink:
 
Pappy- are you a fabricator/car builder by trade? :drink:

Thanks. I'm just an old, retired fighter pilot, but the operative word is "old". I have been practicing fabrication for 60 years - started when I was 13. If I would just move faster and leave well enough alone, maybe I would get this thing on the track and out of the jack stand class.

Pappy
 
Here is something that may be of interest to some of you if you are using motor plates. I have aluminum front and mid plates, and to protect the plates from cracking with lots of torque and in anticipation of some fairly brutal shifts, I am adding motor movement limiters that keep the motor from pushing back under load (right hand torque rule). I added tabs to the frame and built brackets that bolt to the bellhousing (into the back of the block) and used a double clevis between them to absorb the aft forces. It was difficult to take good photos, but here is an effort.

Photo from front to rear:

Motor Travel Limiter 1.jpg

Photo from underneath:

Motor Travel Limiter 3.jpg

Photo from underneath back to front:

Motor Travel Limiter 4.jpgMotor Travel Limiter 1.jpgMotor Travel Limiter 3.jpgMotor Travel Limiter 4.jpg
 
Pappy- are you a fabricator/car builder by trade? :drink:

Thanks. I'm just an old, retired fighter pilot, but the operative word is "old". I have been practicing fabrication for 60 years - started when I was 13. If I would just move faster and leave well enough alone, maybe I would get this thing on the track and out of the jack stand class.

Pappy

I think the jack stand class is alot of fun.

those limiting heim joints (?) are a thing of beauty i love it. freaking elegantly simple.

I love the fabrication on this project.
 
Here is a product I really like. It is a tough paint with stainless steel in it. Called Steel-It. Available in black or gray. You can weld through it. It is tough as nails - hard to chip or scratch. A lot of the off-road suspension manufacturers are starting to use it on suspension components.

Lower Control Arm.jpgLower Control Arm.jpg
 
Here is a product I really like. It is a tough paint with stainless steel in it. Called Steel-It. Available in black or gray. You can weld through it. It is tough as nails - hard to chip or scratch. A lot of the off-road suspension manufacturers are starting to use it on suspension components.

View attachment 2438

can you spray it? i may try it on the front grille I am making
 
Here is a product I really like. It is a tough paint with stainless steel in it. Called Steel-It. Available in black or gray. You can weld through it. It is tough as nails - hard to chip or scratch. A lot of the off-road suspension manufacturers are starting to use it on suspension components.

View attachment 2438

can you spray it? i may try it on the front grille I am making

Yes, but it is pretty thick. Goes over bare, sandblasted (or 36-grit sanded) metal - can't go over paint.

Edit: I think it is available in spray cans.
 
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Speaking of paint...I finally got finished with all the glass work in the interior and got it in Epoxy primer. Now I just need to clean up a few rough spots and get it in a durable, final paint. There will be no carpet and the door and kick panels will be exposed carbon fiber.

Interior 8.jpg

Interior 9.jpgInterior 8.jpgInterior 9.jpg
 
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Thanks guys. No carpet for the weight savings, but I may put a NASCAR-style heat resistant pad/mat in the driver's side floorboard. For seats, I have an OMP WRC and an OMP full-containment HTE-R that I had planned on using. However, I eliminated the passenger side footwell when I move the firewall back for the dry sump tank, so I won't have a passenger seat. It is a track car and the passenger seat was just for grins if someone wanted a "ride". The HTE-R is too wide at the top of the head support, so it forces the seat forward and costs me a couple of inches of leg room - so I'm not going to use it. It will fit my Focus track car to replace the Sparco that has run out of FIA certification. I am talking to TKO Motorsports about a couple of modifications to their Viper full containment seat to make it fit. The head support is narrow enough to slide all the way back.

OMP Seats 1.jpg

tko_viper-seat.jpgOMP Seats 1.jpgtko_viper-seat.jpg
 
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