My new rear is in.....

[Jsup]

And now......the fkn thing is leaking all over the place. I had the whole thing gone over by a professional.

It's not leaking from a gasket. I used dino 85-140.

WTF?

Would an out of balance driveshaft make it leak?

I had to swap driveshafts to the shorter one, and when doing that, had to swap yokes on the trans side. I'm sure it can use a balance.

Any suggestions?

It appears to be leaking from the front seal. Again, I HAD THIS THING COMPLETELY OVERHAULD BY A PROFESSIONAL new seals and all.

 

[MYBAD79]

Who did the "professional" work ?

Will you have to ship it if they offer to fix it for you ?

Might be easier and quicker to get a new front seal from the Zone and fix it yourself.... check if there's some non-hardening sealer (Permatex #2 f.e.) under the seal, when I replaced mine I goop'd it up with grease, 4 years and no leak..... .... makes me wonder how "professional" the rest of the work is.... :rain:

 

[mrvette]

JOHN, maybe check with Gary or Mike on this, but it is my recollection the front pinion seal has to be seated with the flange 1/8 inch or so from being flush in/against the casting...I dunno why it's so weird that way,.....shoving it further home makes the seal ride off the end of the yoke.....

:gurney::drink:

 

[Jsup]

Who did the "professional" work ?

Will you have to ship it if they offer to fix it for you ?

Might be easier and quicker to get a new front seal from the Zone and fix it yourself.... check if there's some non-hardening sealer (Permatex #2 f.e.) under the seal, when I replaced mine I goop'd it up with grease, 4 years and no leak..... .... makes me wonder how "professional" the rest of the work is.... :rain:

I sent it here:
http://drivelinesolution.com/

They will fix it, but $40 each way for shipping, probably can do it locally cheaper.

I used the "right stuff" to mount the diff to the cover, not leaking there.

I had the entire thing rebuilt, new gears, etc... just re used the carrier housing and the case.

We had to swap the drive shaft to the shorter one, and swap the yoke. I am suspicious that there was an imbalance that may have wasted the seal.

Thoughts on that?

 

[Jsup]

JOHN, maybe check with Gary or Mike on this, but it is my recollection the front pinion seal has to be seated with the flange 1/8 inch or so from being flush in/against the casting...I dunno why it's so weird that way,.....shoving it further home makes the seal ride off the end of the yoke.....

:gurney::drink:

I think I'm going to pull it out and have a local company look at it.

 

[mrvette]

JOHN, maybe check with Gary or Mike on this, but it is my recollection the front pinion seal has to be seated with the flange 1/8 inch or so from being flush in/against the casting...I dunno why it's so weird that way,.....shoving it further home makes the seal ride off the end of the yoke.....

:gurney::drink:

I think I'm going to pull it out and have a local company look at it.

PIA....:surrender:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

If you swapped the yoke, did you put permatex on the splines? Also, is it a new or ol yoke? how's the condition of the sealing surface?

 

[Jsup]

If you swapped the yoke, did you put permatex on the splines? Also, is it a new or ol yoke? how's the condition of the sealing surface?

I didn't mount the yoke, so I don't know. We reused the old yoke. Don't know about the sealing surface, have to look at it.

 

[mrvette]

Yeh, any diffy will leak from the splines out past the washer and nut....

so I use my olde tyme favorite RTV for sealing it, when bone stone dry....

don't ask....

:hissyfit::hunter:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Didn't read correctly, you swapped the tranny yoke. In that case, the guy that built it messed up. Either the seal is crooked (the seal goes all the way on these, it's completely different from the old Eatons that Gene is talking about)



The left one without the pinion mount on it is a C4 D44.

 

[Jsup]

I'll be pulling the fkn thing out again this weekend. Stay tuned. I'll take pics this time.....

 

[Jsup]

Rear is out......need to find out where it's leaking...I'm off to the pool. I'm having the driveshaft balanced this week and a local professional look at it to see if he can determine the leak.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

If it's the pinion sealing surface, get a microsleeve and be done with it.

 

[Jsup]

If it's the pinion sealing surface, get a microsleeve and be done with it.

Thanks. I'll ask about that. Any ballpark on the price of that?

Oh yeah, what is a microsleve?

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Same as a speedy sleeve, a very thin stainless sleeve you can install over a pitted sealing surface (often used on balancers)

 

[mrvette]

Same as a speedy sleeve, a very thin stainless sleeve you can install over a pitted sealing surface (often used on balancers)

OMG forgot all about them, I had one on the last Pontiac engine I had built....20 years ago.....yup....lasted for years under hard use too...

:drink:

 

[GTR1999]

Watch out for cheap parts, I had what I thought was a good seal and speedy sleeve setup, found the sleeve ripped. Took the 12 of them I had in stock and threw them all out. Use only CR/SKF or Nationals.

 

[Jsup]

Watch out for cheap parts, I had what I thought was a good seal and speedy sleeve setup, found the sleeve ripped. Took the 12 of them I had in stock and threw them all out. Use only CR/SKF or Nationals.

Thanks. The gears are SPICER Hardened gears. The clutch pack, I don't know. He had to replace it.

I don't know on the seals either. I'll find out.

Thanks.

 

[Jsup]

Some pics of the job:

 

[Jsup]

Some pics of the rear,says 3.07 but is a 3.73 that mark was before the gear change.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL857/2991862/20516132/365235583.jpg

 

[Jsup]

The bolt holes holding the alignment bars were staggered. We cracked two and had to improvise. JB weld.....

not my first choice, but ti works. The batwing holds it in place OK, Seems these pieces are simply spacers.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Those are not simply spacers, take off the JB weld junk and have that welded. Last thing you want is the bracket to be able to wiggle and break off the batwing too, you'll instantly loose that whole suspension corner.

That's where some cases are weaker. See the difference in "meat" around the bolt holes? The one on the right is the thinnest in that area



Next time you bolt the batwing down, use one of the camber bracket bolts on each side to align those holes. The batwing bolt holes themselves have enough oversize to move the whole thing around a bit.


Why is everything so super clean under there? Did you powerwash it?

Looks like it's leaking from the pinion nut? Someone forgot to add permatex to the splines.

 

[Jsup]

Those are not simply spacers, take off the JB weld junk and have that welded. Last thing you want is the bracket to be able to wiggle and break off the batwing too, you'll instantly loose that whole suspension corner.

That's where some cases are weaker. See the difference in "meat" around the bolt holes? The one on the right is the thinnest in that area



Next time you bolt the batwing down, use one of the camber bracket bolts on each side to align those holes. The batwing bolt holes themselves have enough oversize to move the whole thing around a bit.


Why is everything so super clean under there? Did you powerwash it?

Looks like it's leaking from the pinion nut? Someone forgot to add permatex to the splines.

Thanks, I have the batwing out now. I am going to have that welded and repaired since I have it out.

It's not a fatal problem, I hope, seems to have happened more than once according to pictures.

I will take care of it now that the rear is out.

Everything is clean because I keep the car in the garage and keep everything clean, however, yesterday I went over the undercarriage with a detailing brush, some Engine Brite, and some Simple Green. Came out OK. Just got tired and quit.

Hope it is the pinion nut.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

I repaired the broken C beam mounting pad on my ZF6, it can be done by a competent shop without any major issues.

 

[mrvette]

I repaired the broken C beam mounting pad on my ZF6, it can be done by a competent shop without any major issues.

Problem is to have to take that entire assy apart down to a naked casting...otherwise to flame out some oily parts....melt seals...make a HUGE mess....

PIA....:hissyfit::surrender:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

The tailshaft section on the ZF is easily removed, all you need is a new seal and gasket, can get those from ZFDoc no problemo.

 

[mrvette]

The tailshaft section on the ZF is easily removed, all you need is a new seal and gasket, can get those from ZFDoc no problemo.

John not so lucky on that one though....thing is, setup in a new case is more of a PIA than welding that case....cant win....
:skeptic:

 

[Jsup]

The rear is sitting in the bed of my dad's pickup, ready to go. Off for the drive shaft balance, and rear evaluation. THIS SHOULD BE IT. Minor transmission thing....other than that, done.

 

[Jsup]

The tailshaft section on the ZF is easily removed, all you need is a new seal and gasket, can get those from ZFDoc no problemo.

John not so lucky on that one though....thing is, setup in a new case is more of a PIA than welding that case....cant win....
:skeptic:

Welding is cheaper too.

 

[mrvette]

The tailshaft section on the ZF is easily removed, all you need is a new seal and gasket, can get those from ZFDoc no problemo.

John not so lucky on that one though....thing is, setup in a new case is more of a PIA than welding that case....cant win....
:skeptic:

Welding is cheaper too.

Bird said cheep is good.....:crylol: