HVAC guys....Florida....

mrvette

Phantom of the Opera
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
15,194
Location
NE Florida
1600' Florida slab house, air handler at one end of house in garage, close to the outdoor heat pump....it's a white/gray shingle roof, a damn mansard too boot, one valley into the garage, and a nearly flat 300' addition out back.....

the present HVAC ducts are mainly stock from '72, insulated running through the attic, drops into the bedrooms, and two 6" lines into the additon out back on other end of the house....

sunny day today, fairly dry....90f easy outside....2pm....

so the temp , with BLOWER ONLY, no a/c is running for a test... the temp is 85f at the stack.....

in the back bedroom it's 92f at the end of the main run from the older stock setup.....

so a 7 degree increase in air temp.....

I figger it'a more for the room additon....

so, I looking at the layout of the house, and it would be fairly simple to run the ducts UNDER the ceiling, over the front door/windows/bedrooms, along the end wall, or even down the center of the nexus of the hall bath and the 3 bedrooms....

the basic question is.....since with a 7 degree increase in air temps, when the discharge air drops to say 65F when that a/c is on, then it's some 80f in the back bedroom.....

what could reasonable be expected savings as a % of operating costs??? figger 10-12F temp rise always fighting on the supply side....??

IF the ducts were run in a soffit UNDER the attic where the rooms are already cool, the savings would be great, I would assume.....ti's a fairly easy do job....take me about a week or so....materials maybe 150 bux.....

anyone???:bonkers::flash:
 
Good idea for the ductwork, but the code boys really don't like it.

Get your air handler into air conditioned space, that will be your biggest gain.
Having everything in A/C space will really put a big dent in the bill. Prevents mold growth too. After the foil tape, use the duct mastic on all joints.

I think I mentioned this before, but coat your roof with a white elastomeric coating, even the cheap stuff, and you will see a 40°+ drop in attic temps. You can also add powered attic ventilation.
awnings on sunny windows help a lot.

The State of Florida has a computer modeling program that calculates your needs by amount of overhang, size and direction of windows. ceiling and wall insulation, type of roof materials, type of walls etc. Required calcs for new and redo.
For example adding a 6'8" x 8' slider facing west can add a ton af a/c requirement. Unbelievably, wall insulation does more than ceiling insulation.

Also keeping the a/c on vs shutting it off and opening windows at nite etc will use a lot more a/c than just leaving it on. I don't think our windows have been open for at least 10 years, but we are hotter than you.
Using 78° unstead of 76° will save a substantial amount.
Using a programable electronic tstat will save you the price of it, the first hot month.

The list goes on...
 
Wonder what is against code other than FIRE about ducting below the ceilings?? this has a couple emergency heat strips, but woopie doo, i'ts a heat pump....USED to be water/air, but changed out for a plain heat pump about 9 years ago...

still has combustible ducting, the bonnet is that way off the blower, the heat strips up top of the blower, the ducting is/was always just flex but the OEM from the builder is just steel and wrapped with 3/4" insulation to stop sweating....but that air is hotter than hell when the a/c kick in for a few seconds...the BTU loss has to be great, much less the losses in airflow temps on just a April breezy day, even though it's very sunny out...

I gotta keep this cheep, but decent looking for the appearances...not that I care, but the chicks DO....

:gurney:
 
I think you're better off buying some new insulation for the old ducts. HomeDepot had a good deal not too long ago: buy $200 worth of insulation and get a $50 gift card....
I insulated the attic above the garage and yes, it made a huge difference - I'll get more of this stuff and do the rest of the attic.... and no, I'm not a tree hugger by any means LOL
 
NOTHING to do with trees, but my total electric outlay....

fail to see any 200 buck insulation to the pipes/ducting up THERE is going to do much...

trying to push cold air through a hot pipe just don't make sense....finally getting to the point...but need call the county code guys to see WTF the codes require....
 
you'll be surprised..... also look at adding vents, doesn't have to be with a electric fan, just get air circulating up there... it makes a huge difference.
 
you'll be surprised..... also look at adding vents, doesn't have to be with a electric fan, just get air circulating up there... it makes a huge difference.

GOT passive ridge vents, but P/O did put plastic soffeting under the OEM plywood with round holes/screens stapled to it....so that plastic is mesh all over but severely restricts the airflow, I have to assume...so those ridge vents don't work worth shit....no flow from the soffits...

so, I have tossed around the typical flying saucer type power vent, and I use one for the range hood in the kitchen.....but with those ridge vents, I see air coming in them, and then out the powered vents....lovely so the vast majority of the attic gets minimal circulation....to boot it's a freeking Mansard/hip roof, slanted on all 99 sides, capped like the ridge....further limiting my options...

but with all this federal bullshit coming down the line, I have to do something...CHEEP....what to do?? I think to get the heat away from the supply air, as for resale value, it would hardly be noticed in the interior of the house....would trim out nice...really nice...doubtful most real estate agents would notice....

BUT, fire/codes???

:gurney:
 
The best is to move everything including the ductwork into air conditioned space. Your savings and comfort level will improve greatly.
Just build a soffit down to 7 ft down the center of the house with metal studs, run 12" flex R6, branch off with 8" flex with scuppers and use adjustable flow grills to balance. If worried about fire use 5/8" x rock.
It's built this way in condos all the time.

You're smart enough not to call the building guys, aren't you. :banghead:
 
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