How to crimp terminals

Kid Vette

Kid Vette

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Anybody know how to crimp this style of terminal?
 
Kid Vette said:
image.php


Anybody know how to crimp this style of terminal?
Click to expand...

I would throw those in the trash, and buy some real ones.:tomato:
If your insistent, as Noonie says, strip the wire to fit the front tangs. Fold each tab down with needle nose, then crimp the closed loops with a good crimper. Then, solder it, because they suck and will pull out anyways. Good luck.
 
big2bird said:
Kid Vette said:
image.php


Anybody know how to crimp this style of terminal?
Click to expand...

I would throw those in the trash, and buy some real ones.:tomato:
If your insistent, as Noonie says, strip the wire to fit the front tangs. Fold each tab down with needle nose, then crimp the closed loops with a good crimper. Then, solder it, because they suck and will pull out anyways. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Bird is right, the only folks who make decent crimps these daze are for the USA .mil 99% of what you see on shelves is junk.....I did buy some the other day that were good, but you really have to know what you looking for, the thin shit metal they use today will pull out, and then the thing will not stay put on the blade.....seems like ALL of it these days is junk....not just spade connectors....

Like Jeff, you can tell I get pissed off at that shituation.....:club::club::smash::surrender:
 
Those require a special crimper that rolls the tabs over. They are typically machine crimped.

With the proper crimping tool or some patience with a standard crimper they can give reliable service. Without the special tool I'd solder them as advised above.

Try to buy ONLY Thomas and Betts terminals. They are expensive for a reason....

Steve the industrial electrician:wink:
 
Thanks for the response guys! I got these terminals with the Daniel Stern headlight relay kit I bought a couple years ago and am just now installing.

I found this crimper on Ebay: Ratcheting Terminal Crimper and Cable Wire Markers. It looks like the jaws shown in #14 are the ones I need. Of course $158 is a little more than I want to spend. :twitch: I'm willing to spend 30 bucks or so for a good crimper to do the job. Anybody know where I can get one?
 
I have the Snap-On crimper for those terminals. Works great, but I only used it once. My OBD-1 computer used those, but now I have the Accel Thruster unit. Now they just take up room in my tool box.
 
Wow!

That $158 unit looks like it would be extremely useful for me. I have Coaxial crimpers that are now obsolete (Thank God) but the rest of it looks pretty useful.
 
I was surprised to learn about crimping electrical connections when I took AC classes. The whole time I thought I had been doing it right by placing the nub part of the crimper on top of the terminals (talking about the conventional terminals that are already insulated). I was taught the correct way was to put the nub on the bottom of the terminal so that the split in the terminal faced directly away from the nub. I thought, "pfft, my way works just fine", and 4 out of 5 times, it does. But I was arguing with a guy about the merits of my way when I pulled a freshly crimped wire right off the terminal.
Their way works.
 
clutchdust said:
I was surprised to learn about crimping electrical connections when I took AC classes. The whole time I thought I had been doing it right by placing the nub part of the crimper on top of the terminals (talking about the conventional terminals that are already insulated). I was taught the correct way was to put the nub on the bottom of the terminal so that the split in the terminal faced directly away from the nub. I thought, "pfft, my way works just fine", and 4 out of 5 times, it does. But I was arguing with a guy about the merits of my way when I pulled a freshly crimped wire right off the terminal.
Their way works.
Click to expand...

Correct.
Most quality crimp connectors, or "Sta-Kon" for slang, have a solid barrel. Because of manufaturing, some small ones have the seam. The wide open ones, as stated, are for production machines. Even when machine crimped, they suck, and fail. I assure you no nuke plants allow them.
 
big2bird said:
clutchdust said:
I was surprised to learn about crimping electrical connections when I took AC classes. The whole time I thought I had been doing it right by placing the nub part of the crimper on top of the terminals (talking about the conventional terminals that are already insulated). I was taught the correct way was to put the nub on the bottom of the terminal so that the split in the terminal faced directly away from the nub. I thought, "pfft, my way works just fine", and 4 out of 5 times, it does. But I was arguing with a guy about the merits of my way when I pulled a freshly crimped wire right off the terminal.
Their way works.
Click to expand...

Correct.
Most quality crimp connectors, or "Sta-Kon" for slang, have a solid barrel. Because of manufaturing, some small ones have the seam. The wide open ones, as stated, are for production machines. Even when machine crimped, they suck, and fail. I assure you no nuke plants allow them.
Click to expand...

Jeff, you a nukey rated 'lectrician'??
 
mrvette said:
Jeff, you a nukey rated 'lectrician'??
Click to expand...

I am . However, I have never worked at San Onofree. The drive sucks. Closest thing I have done is all the controls for the new sub station that feeds California Adventure at Disneyland. Very interesting to know how them puppies operate.
Turtle knows exactly what type of controls were involved.:D
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
Jeff, you a nukey rated 'lectrician'??
Click to expand...

I am . However, I have never worked at San Onofree. The drive sucks. Closest thing I have done is all the controls for the new sub station that feeds California Adventure at Disneyland. Very interesting to know how them puppies operate.
Turtle knows exactly what type of controls were involved.:D
Click to expand...

NOT that I ever touched one, but bet you didn't do the wiring to the output studs on 1.3 thousand MEGAWATTS alternator .....

I sat there just gawking like a little kid maybe 30 years ago....jeebus man....

that's a nut that simply can't be cracked....

:surrender::club:
 
mrvette said:
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
Jeff, you a nukey rated 'lectrician'??
Click to expand...

I am . However, I have never worked at San Onofree. The drive sucks. Closest thing I have done is all the controls for the new sub station that feeds California Adventure at Disneyland. Very interesting to know how them puppies operate.
Turtle knows exactly what type of controls were involved.:D
Click to expand...

NOT that I ever touched one, but bet you didn't do the wiring to the output studs on 1.3 thousand MEGAWATTS alternator .....

I sat there just gawking like a little kid maybe 30 years ago....jeebus man....

that's a nut that simply can't be cracked....

:surrender::club:
Click to expand...

Nope. Changed the brushes on a 12,000HP synchronous motor once. Looked like carbon cinder blocks.
 
big2bird said:
I would throw those in the trash, and buy some real ones.:tomato:
If your insistent, as Noonie says, strip the wire to fit the front tangs. Fold each tab down with needle nose, then crimp the closed loops with a good crimper. Then, solder it, because they suck and will pull out anyways. Good luck.
Click to expand...
So, other than they require a special crimpers, what don't you like about this style terminal? Apparently the auto companies have been using them for years. Just curious. :fishing:
 
Kid Vette said:
big2bird said:
I would throw those in the trash, and buy some real ones.:tomato:
If your insistent, as Noonie says, strip the wire to fit the front tangs. Fold each tab down with needle nose, then crimp the closed loops with a good crimper. Then, solder it, because they suck and will pull out anyways. Good luck.
Click to expand...
So, other than they require a special crimpers, what don't you like about this style terminal? Apparently the auto companies have been using them for years. Just curious. :fishing:
Click to expand...

I am siding with big2bird on this one. The O/P stated it is for a headlight relay or something. Sorry to say but I think the O/P should re-evaluate this idea and use weatherpack relays and pigtails. It isn't that difficult to make a weatherpack relay do what that poor mans relay will. Why you think auto makers went to weatherpack?

I'm sure many of you remember the early 80's when ecm's and electric fans came and the issues they had with unsealed relays etc. from corrosion buildup that crossed terminals and shorted stuff out.

Sorry but those autozone el-cheapo relays have no reason to be under a hood of a car. I would go out of my way to make weatherpack relays work simple as that.
 
Kid Vette said:
So, other than they require a special crimpers, what don't you like about this style terminal? Apparently the auto companies have been using them for years. Just curious. :fishing:
Click to expand...

They use them because they are cheap and "adequate.":smash:
 
This style of terminal will hold just fine IF it is crimped on properly . I do it all the time and have done so for years. I always use Delphi electric terminals and Delphi Packard or Kent Moore crimping plires , makes a factory style crimp that just won't let go. Just be sure to pack the terminal cavity with plenty of Dielectric grease and it will be reasonably weather tite. Go here for a good set of terminal crimpers that won't break you :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Delp...7485597?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35af7d371d

I have bought things off of this seller and he shipps FAST and his prices are reasonable. Stan
 
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