Getting the car under 3k

Yellow73SB

Yellow73SB

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Mar 24, 2008
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Most of you know my car

Do you think it's under 3000 #

I need to get it under 3k so I can be cheap and not have to buy 1 3/4 dies for the bender.

I think I should be pretty close right now and after the doors are gutted and the glass is removed I should be below. Also the light weight column mount should help. I already did a light weight front clip support thing.

I think it's 3000 dry weight, all it says is without the driver

It will be .120 wall tubing.


I'm off to bed I'll post more tomorrow :goodnight:
 
My 72 LT-1 scales at 3280lbs with roof panels off, rear window out and a 1/2 tank of gas. If you have "canned" all the heavy front bracing you should be in good shape if not start looking there to eliminate weight (and improve perfromance.)
 
I would think you would want to shoot for #3,000lbs. for ALL the benefits.
HP to wt ratio, handling,etc..........
 
I have a '72 vert, used to be a muncie car small block, and was mechanically untouched, dead stock when I got it.....

after fabbing a new front grill, going 17" wheels, rack steering, alum master cyl, HB brakes, and switching to auto trans, serp drive, small compressor, all those mods to get rid of weight, and that pig still weighed 3300 lbs on the county weight scale.....I expected something like 3100.....I even got a plastic spring, and fixed plastic headlights...right there is about 60 lbs in weight savings....so go figger....can't beleive that auto tranny conversion gained all THAT much weight....got aluminum heads, induction, headers...go figger....

I added power windows, so what 10 lbs??? woopie doo.....

:huh:I figger the damn thing must have weighed about 3500 lbs easy when I got it....extra custom fender flares and that rear lighting add THAT much weight to a car??

:mad:
 
A 73 weighs about 3300 lbs (small block with a 4 speed).

Removing the A/C crap, removing the vacuum canister, the headlights (replace with fixed), all the vacuum crap in the front. Dropping the spare tire, monoleaf spring (front too maybe), pulling out your passenger seat, jack, out of the box, an aluminum radiator. Light weight wheels. Probably get 40lbs out of the car on that alone. Plenty of places make lightweight steel wheels for affordable prices. And torque thrust 2 wheels are also like 17lbs too I believe.

Might get you pretty close
 
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Aluminum brake calipers
Aluminum brake hats

Swap in a later aluminum bat wing

Doors off of an earlier year (no side impact beams)

Remove the windows and replace with a net

Lexan windshield

carbon fiber half shafts, and driveshaft

Side exhaust with no mufflers
 
guru said:
Aluminum brake calipersGood
Aluminum brake hats

Swap in a later aluminum bat wingGood

Doors off of an earlier year (no side impact beams)He can cut them out

Remove the windows and replace with a netGood

Lexan windshieldGood

carbon fiber half shafts, and driveshaftI don't like them myself

Side exhaust with no mufflers
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I don't think that is allowed

Good ideas though
 
Well It will have this when I weight it

aluminum heads
aluminum intake
gutted doors skin and hinges only
No glass besides the front windshield
lightweight front support
Lightweight seats
Anything that isn't being used has been removed already

I also want to get rid of the hydraboost and powersteering

yellow73sb004.jpg
73updates003.jpg
 
good news your heading in the right direction...bad news your quickly approaching the point where the lightweight parts you are using to replace the heavy stock shit are going to get expensive.....how about a set of Titanium seat belt adjusters for your racing harness???
redvetracr
 
redvetracr said:
good news your heading in the right direction...bad news your quickly approaching the point where the lightweight parts you are using to replace the heavy stock shit are going to get expensive.....how about a set of Titanium seat belt adjusters for your racing harness???
redvetracr
Click to expand...

What do you think Howard? From now on. $100 a pound? $200? LOL
 
guru said:
light weight flywheel will cut 15lbs
Click to expand...

I have an auto right now

Hopefully I'll get a 5.5" clutch and lightweight flywheel when we swap to a manual

I'm also think taking the head lights out would save a good bit also


I'm not ready for the expensive stuff yet :o.

Is the 3k weight with the cage or before the cage? I should be able to make it with a BB though.

What if I make 3k with a sb but am over with a BB?
 
Yellow73SB said:
I have an auto right now

Hopefully I'll get a 5.5" clutch and lightweight flywheel when we swap to a manual

I'm also think taking the head lights out would save a good bit also


I'm not ready for the expensive stuff yet :o.

Is the 3k weight with the cage or before the cage? I should be able to make it with a BB though.

What if I make 3k with a sb but am over with a BB?
Click to expand...

I feel bad here, I took (years ago) all the stuff - spare tire, jack and other crap out of my C2 and it weighted in at a pound or two UNDER 3,000 lbs.:cool:
 
Ditching the auto for an M21 will save you a huge amount of weight.
 
Yellow73SB said:
I have an auto right now

Hopefully I'll get a 5.5" clutch and lightweight flywheel when we swap to a manual

I'm also think taking the head lights out would save a good bit also

I'm kinda surprised you haven't yet
I'm not ready for the expensive stuff yet :o.

Is the 3k weight with the cage or before the cage? I should be able to make it with a BB though.

What if I make 3k with a sb but am over with a BB?
Click to expand...

Keep at it. You'll get there, even if it costs you every dime you have.(And then some)
 
Yellow73SB said:
I have an auto right now

Hopefully I'll get a 5.5" clutch and lightweight flywheel when we swap to a manual
I'm not ready for the expensive stuff yet :o.
Click to expand...


A pro series 5.5" clutch with a reverse drive starter (Not a "V-drive" the "pro series") and a correct T-101 or Jerico with a rail shifter (NO Hurst crapola) IS the expensive stuff......notice I said "correct" not one with NASCAR ratios........
redvetracr
 
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Yellow73SB said:
Most of you know my car

Do you think it's under 3000 #

I need to get it under 3k so I can be cheap and not have to buy 1 3/4 dies for the bender.

I think I should be pretty close right now and after the doors are gutted and the glass is removed I should be below. Also the light weight column mount should help. I already did a light weight front clip support thing.

I think it's 3000 dry weight, all it says is without the driver

It will be .120 wall tubing.


I'm off to bed I'll post more tomorrow :goodnight:
Click to expand...

again, like 98% of c3 forum bs'ers you are concentrating on the car too much and the driver skill way way too little. You have like 2 autocrosses so far? Were you competitive at all?

Buy a used aluminum block like i did and build it. You figure it out for me.
 
I think 4 now

I can't be competitive at all with the tires I'm running

I want to do the cage and fuel cell before sebring, Just safety stuff not bench racing
 
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