EXTERNAL AERODYNAMICS

4) DUCT TAPE!!

Or, LeMans buckets might be shallower if using modern rectangular LEDs.​
Then, you could swap the fiberglass covers with lexan and transparent blue mylar.​
Would look "semi" stock." Maybe less weight too. The stock light buckets are pretty heavy - mechanism, etc.​

2) I guess that touch of oversteer is from a throttle "Blip"- or drop?" "...when I ask for it."
I enjoyed "pointing the nose" of the little racer that way. It was a real hoot.

Cheers - Jim
 
The electric solenoid headlight conversion is pretty well documented diy project. Or, remove the headlights completely and install fill pieces. Those things are very heavy.

I know you want to keep the stock look, so the vacuum tank might be easiest.
 
69427 said:
Yesterday's track day went well. Nothing broke or got scratched up. A few conclusions I came to during the day:
1) I need to brake later. I'm still trying to get accustomed to how much quicker the car decelerates with the decreased weight.
2) The car is very neutral through the corners, with a touch of oversteer when I ask for it.
3) I'd like more front grip. I can't find many more ways to pull weight off the car, so I may have to look for other methods (stickier tires, steering geometry changes, etc). I'll be starting another thread regarding Ackerman geometries pluses and minuses. I can move the steering rack position pretty easily, but I don't have a sure way to decide which position is best for my situation.
4) And finally aerodynamics. I'm getting down the straights quicker than before, the car feels steady, and the brakes and engine are apparently cooling sufficiently in the process. A problem I ran into repeatedly was the headlights popping up at about 120. I don't have the vacuum system re-hooked up after I pulled out the vacuum tank, so I had to manually close the lights after each session. I don't know if the problem is purely aero pressure getting under the headlights (or maybe entering the headlight opening gap behind the front bumper), or if it's a combination of that and no vacuum in the actuators to help keep the headlights down. I welcome input or suggestions about this issue, as my plans at the moment are to reconnect the vacuum lines and perhaps install a small plastic vacuum canister to compensate for small vacuum leaks in the system.
Click to expand...
i'm running the mx5 (miata) electric motors on mine. Never have to worry about them popping up by themselves again, and gets rid of the vacuum hoses (only vac line left on my car is PCV). I did measure the weight at the time, from memory I think it was pretty much a wash between the motors/wiring and the vacuum actuators and hoses. I did end up making some double shear brackets for the motors, I eventually cracked the single shear brackets (sourced from the Corvette Forum). But my car does get a lot of use and hard use at that.
 
I was hesitating posting this one. I was going to keep it "my little secret" but there is an opportunity rising here.

UOP Shadow was a unique CAN-AM team that brought a lot of innovation (in External Aero) to the track.

Here is an example that could be a potential solution to increasing front grip, elminating the weight of headlight buckets, and vacuum tank..
It would involve a reasonably-fast acting solenoid set up, a modified headlight assembly, and sort out some switchology.
1756297723902.png

This video was shot at Goodwood in England last year. LINK:

At the 5 minute mark you'll note the deployment of the front and rear spoilers. No brakes lights in the video, so unclear if tied to a brake switch or manually operated.
A "Plug-and-Play" headlight bucket could offer track toy and still double as a DD. Just need some switch-thinking. Definitely require some testing and a cooperative series.
I'd think track-days would be pretty open. Could be fun.

Cheers - Jim
 
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