Electric fuel pump installed. Test drive tonight!

BlackRat

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2008
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196
I finally finished the install and test fired it last night. 7 psi constant to the carb. The real test will be when I take it for a drive and the front bowl doesn't empty out!!
I wired the pump to a switch I hid in the ash trye compartment. This way it gives me at least some level of control as well as a measure of theft deterent. I am using the Holley red pump so I don't need a regulator. the fuel line has been rerouted as far away from heat as possible and now feeds from the back of the motor instead of the front. If this doesn't fix the problem I don't know what else to do.

More to come this evening! ;-)
 
Hey man, I allmost guarantee it will work fine....bet on it....99% chance....them race cars use electric pumps for a REASON.....

:yahoo::beer:
 
Hey man, I allmost guarantee it will work fine....bet on it....99% chance....them race cars use electric pumps for a REASON.....

:yahoo::beer:

Thanks Gene! I am really hoping this does fix it. I need to drive this thing for a change!!!!
 
Hey man, I allmost guarantee it will work fine....bet on it....99% chance....them race cars use electric pumps for a REASON.....

:yahoo::beer:

Thanks Gene! I am really hoping this does fix it. I need to drive this thing for a change!!!!

Yeh, I hear you, nose how it goze....I was one irratable SOB during winter 01-02 with the vette down some 6-8 months for MAJOR Bullshit....:beer:
 
I have found that the use of an electric pump alone won't always cure the problem - a return fuel line to keep fuel flowing through the system along with the electric pump will always do the trick. If you don't run a return line, the electric pump dead-heads, amp draw goes up, and you have hot fuel at the carb inlet.

Lars
 
I have found that the use of an electric pump alone won't always cure the problem - a return fuel line to keep fuel flowing through the system along with the electric pump will always do the trick. If you don't run a return line, the electric pump dead-heads, amp draw goes up, and you have hot fuel at the carb inlet.

Lars


Gotta comment on your avatar, funny as hell, I grin every time I see it.....

I have never had a problem dead heading a pump.....EXCEPT with a Qjet, then I stuck one of them dead head regulators in the line and it was fine...no more fuel pouring out...ran like that for years until I put the injection on it....Pontiac 455 '70 Lemans/GTO rag top....I have put a 2-3? ohm resistor inline with the pump sometimes just to quiet it down a bit as the crapassity was obviously far greater than that engine would EVER use....but it was more for working the pump less than anything else....I didn't always do that, depended on what parts I had...maybe a noise issue too, I forget....

I can understand the pulsing diaphram needing the peak pressures relieved and so to return to tank, but that is the only reason I can think of that a return line is necessary....

Even in Maryland, when winters would be 10f+ with a electric choke, I never had any issues with blocking the hear riser crossover passage with plaster of Paris....stopped that fuel boil issue in hot summers completely....but that was with GM....

on a Chrysler 318, I actually watch one frost up on a rainy day.....and the engine was in trouble...but all carb'd 318's ran like shit anyway....until hot...

:beer:
 
Well that seems to have done the trick. It was still in the high 80's and I drove it for a good 30 minutes and never had the issue again. I am falling flat in upper rpm's but I think that is more due to carb tune and timing which I have had little time to mess with.

Thanks all for your help!

But as always with this car. Fix one thing and another pops up. It appears that my second rear main seal is leaking and it got worse when I put the valvoline 50 weight racing oil in it. Does this make since??? The second time with the seal I followed TimAT's direction's to the letter. Did not leak a drop and now it is all over the place!!!!

Could it be something like an over filled pan??? That is wishful thinking as it only starts after the motor is warm and driven down the road. Seems to be able to sit an idle all day long with no leak.....
 
Well one down and now to slip on oil.....damnit.....ok, I would leave the PCV all connected and pull the other valve cover fitting off, leaving a open hole, go for another drive, see if that rear main is leaking, maybe try both valve covers with open holes and NO PVC......I just shoot/wipe acetone/min spirits/solvent and when shoot carb cleaner on it really quick....you sure it's not coming down the back of the intake mani on that China wall??? near the dizzy???

:friends:
 
I am pretty sure it is coming from the seal but will double check tomorrow. I am not running a pcv. I have a filter cap on each VC for venting gas.
 
Well that seems to have done the trick. It was still in the high 80's and I drove it for a good 30 minutes and never had the issue again. I am falling flat in upper rpm's but I think that is more due to carb tune and timing which I have had little time to mess with.

Thanks all for your help!

But as always with this car. Fix one thing and another pops up. It appears that my second rear main seal is leaking and it got worse when I put the valvoline 50 weight racing oil in it. Does this make since??? The second time with the seal I followed TimAT's direction's to the letter. Did not leak a drop and now it is all over the place!!!!

Could it be something like an over filled pan??? That is wishful thinking as it only starts after the motor is warm and driven down the road. Seems to be able to sit an idle all day long with no leak.....


Check the back of your valve covers, towards the rear of the engine. Mine were dripping down the back of the motor and looked like a bottom end leak.

GLAD YOU ARE FINALLY DRIVING IT ! ! ! Congratulations!
 
I have an Aeromotive Street and Strip electric pump. I don't have rear sway bars on my 68, so I mounted a lengthwise aluminum bracket using the sway bar/frame holes to mount it. The pump is on the bracket along with a big Aeromotive fuel filter. Up front, I have a Holley with a Holley regulator mounted in a mounting plate made by Edelbrock, Edelbrock has a kit that includes where an aluminum plate is sandwiched between the carb and the intake manifold, the regulator is mounted to the plate and the kit includes stainless steel braided hoses to mate to the Holley. I have a fuel pressure gauge there also. Theres no pressure return, but all works well. The Aeromotive fuel pump is driven by an Aeromotive speed controller. The speed controller senses speed from the HEI distributor electric tach ouput. It applies reduced power to the pump at idle, increases power as rpm increases and finally applies full DC 14 volt power at 3500 rpm. Switches to operate are on a bracket under the jack storage compartment door. For anti-theft I can power the whole unit off.

Also, the Aeromotive pump is paralled by a Holley pump. If the Aeromotive pump ever fails, I can power on the Holley to get home on. The Holley pump also has a filter and it has a one way check valve so that when the Aeromotive is operating, the Aeromotive won't pump fuel back throught the Holley. All the plumbing between fuel pumps, filter, check valve, etc is via CoNiFer metal tubing. CoNiFer is almost soft as copper but more durable due to i'ts nickel and iron content. It's used in some Eropean cars.

Just thought I say how I did this...a little slow for me tonight. I'm in a remote rural area in Thailand. About 250 miles south of Bangkok in a big village between the main North/South highway and the ocean. No tourists or foreigners. here. No body speeks english (other than my wife) so the internet is a fantastic pastime.
 
Just thought I say how I did this...a little slow for me tonight. I'm in a remote rural area in Thailand. About 250 miles south of Bangkok in a big village between the main North/South highway and the ocean. No tourists or foreigners. here. No body speeks english (other than my wife) so the internet is a fantastic pastime.
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Jeez who are you James Bond on secret assignment??? Oil company??

:bump:
 
:bestwishes: Pics!

I'll try to do this when I get back to LA. I'm getting desperate to post photos since I haven't for the many years of forum participation.

About my comment about plumbing in CuNiFer tubing, (Did I say CoNiFer perviously?) It is used in Volvos, for one. I probably really have about 8 feet of tubing in the car. I probably bought 24 feet of more of it. Every time I made a line that didn't fit, I threw it away and tried again. Also, even thought I had some lines that were fitting correctly, I eventually found out things were'nt arranged corectly and had to redo things. I estimate that plumbing in my fuel lines, front to rear, fuel pumps, filters, ended up costing close to $1000. A big cost driver was to use all Earls, Aeroquip, Russell fittings ($$$$$). Since I didn't always know exactly which fittings I really needed, I always ordered other combinations of fittings to build up an inventory in case I didn't need them. The problem with using these fittings is that if you find out you really need a fitting you don't have, then you have to order the part. To try to avoid parts hold ups, I ordered anything I thought I might possibly need. Even though I live near to two Earl's parts stores, they often didn't have the parts I needed in stock.
............Why a out of the way village (Thap Sakai) in rural Thailand? Between 1975 and 1991 I made many trips to Australia, even living there for about 9 years. Always tried to visit Thailand and Singapore on every trip to Australia. Met my wife here in 1991. She has 4 brothers and sisters living here. so it's visiting inlaw relatives.

Apologies if I screwed up this thread with comments off point, but I hope the original questions were answered.
 
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68/70, I guess I sorry for asking, but I tend to go a tad OT sometimes when some interesting subject or related problem is touched on, and YES, I am curious to see pix....at that time, I maybe ask some questions...

thanks...:bounce:
 
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