I did that, mine is 2" wider on the rear. The stub axles are sticking out by about 1" now and that's with the arms all set to the shortest setting, to adjust camber the upper ones or the lower ones get longer and move the wheel outboard even further. Still need new halfshafts
With a trailing arm however there's the toe issue and you can't do that unless you build an arm with an offset in it (not like what's availble out therewhich are actuallt not offset but notched arms)
Even longer arms at the front????? They already are very long.
1 way would be to get custom slip shafts...for half shafts with a 6 link. Then you would have at least 1/2" to play around with wheel positioning before running out of room on the trailing arm pocket/alignment shims.
See 2 the rod ends on the lower control arm? Those set the toe. The diagonal rod that runs to the differential pinion mount area can be used also to set the toe but it tils the wheel and moves it back a little, as such it also affects caster setting. i use that one to set the arms in the proper settings and then register the toe. Then as a last I remove one of the 2 bolts and move one of the rod ends in our out to adjust. It's a bigger PITA this way than using a sleeve but it's a safer system that won't loose it's setting. The upper control arm only sets caster and camber, the rod ends at both ends can be threaded in and out to angle the arm and to make it longer/shorter.
This is the best view of how it works that I have (it's not totally accurate, I changed the arms a little)