Considering a roller cam for my 427. Advice?

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The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
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Clinging to my guns and religion in KCMO.
Still rounding up parts for the next engine in the '69. I was just going to transplant the cam and lifters from the present (extremely low mileage)engine, but given all the concern about antiwear agents in oil being reduced, I'm entertaining going with a roller cam setup. I haven't even opened a catalog yet to look at what's available with roller cams, but I thought I'd just ask around to see if there are any detail stuff I need to be aware of when going this route.
Thanks for any help.
Mike
 
I did the exact same thing, pulled out a brand new flat hydraulic to put in a hydraulic roller due to break-in concerns. The only hitch I found was some information that some BB have lifter bores that are machined at the wrong angle for hydraulic lifters. I don't have much more information than that and have no idea how prevalent it is. Maybe someone here can elaborate.

I did have to make my own pushrod length checker to size my pushrods.
 
I did the exact same thing, pulled out a brand new flat hydraulic to put in a hydraulic roller due to break-in concerns. The only hitch I found was some information that some BB have lifter bores that are machined at the wrong angle for hydraulic lifters. I don't have much more information than that and have no idea how prevalent it is. Maybe someone here can elaborate.

I did have to make my own pushrod length checker to size my pushrods.

Some things I learned:

You'll need a cam button and possibly a reinforced timing chain cover to keep the roller cam from walking.

Pushrods are a different length than flat tappet rods.

You might need to upgrade your valve springs.

You'll need a bronze or melonized distributer gear.
 
Some things I learned:

You'll need a cam button and possibly a reinforced timing chain cover to keep the roller cam from walking. I've got a cast aluminum cover that ought to be strong enough, assuming it will actually fit behind the pump.

Pushrods are a different length than flat tappet rods. That certainly makes sense. I'm hoping that, due to lower production volume, that they aren't a bunch more expensive.
You might need to upgrade your valve springs. I was curious about the weight of those lifters. I don't plan on winging the crap out of this engine, but I would like to have a good feel for the weight difference.
You'll need a bronze or melonized distributer gear.
That makes sense. And, it ought to be one of the few inexpensive parts in this conversion.

thanks for the info!
 
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