6 link suspension, my go at it...


Knows just enough to be dangerous!
Mar 23, 2008
Big Pine Key, FL
This is my setup, I have to add my alternate upper link mounts to drop the inner link...

survived 2000 miles of 3000 lb car and 565 lbft of torque, 2 autocrosses and 3 laps of the long track at WGI...






It's not the weight, it's that his are telescopic and exactly what I need for my build so I can retain the c clip in the diff
Yea, I agree they are boat anchors, I have a boat:fishing:, you can send them to me, I'll even pay shipping 'kay? :friends::idea:
I understood that I was just curious what the difference is.

I have a Spicer U-joint style slip axle for a Viper and it weighs 14.4 lbs (w/u-joints installed). Axle for C3 is 10.5 lbs w/ u-joints. The Viper axle is 20 inches long so a it's going to be heavier. I can only speculate what it would be in the Vette length.
Whats to know...

The shafts are copied from the stock shafts so the length is the same with the suspension at rest (shafts parallel to the ground). Center the travel of the spline and off you go... If you get a bit fancier and look at full travel and suspension adjustments I actually cheated the splines in 0.625 to have a bit more toe travel.

The point is that the suspension now moves with no tension or compression load on the halfshaft. Total stress is reduced => the shaft should live longer.

Yep they are 20% heavier that stock and it is unsprung and it adds to the rotational mass of the driveline.

Unequal length, instantaneous center at infinity... I have provisions to move the inner ends of the links one or two steps closer if desired.

The idea was to make a setup that would convert easily from a drag race setup to a road course setup without to much difficulty. Some adjustability to experiment with :beer:

It's trivial to adjust static camber and toe with the strut rods...

Roll induced camber changes are minimal due to a fairly narrow range of actual suspension travel... Big sticky tires minimize the effect... how does it work... time will tell.
So far it's not been a problem at the autox and it's quite a bit better than the original in terms of crispness and compliance.

For service of the heim's they have rubber flaps on them to keep out the junk... I just grease them with the needle for a 4x4 under the flap.

TT if you want a set I can drop'em off at your place with the other parts in June...

Moonlight Machine where "it's good enough for who it's for" & "no drawing, no part"

It's not the weight, it's that his are telescopic and exactly what I need for my build so I can retain the c clip in the diff

Marck, I know an adress just over the dutch border by Valkenswaard, where you could get them modified like that. At least i brought one of my reserve-axles in and had them look them over. Ain't cheap, something like 800 €. If you want the adress, just pm me.
If i well remember I payed for my slip half-shafts some 500 Euros!

One small consideration.
Ok, it is correct to say they are heavier than the stock ones..... let say some 30% !

But.... as may you know the inertial influence of a shaft is proportional to it's weight and to it's tangential speed.

A shaft of 1" OD or so..... even if much heavier than a shaft of 3" will waste less power tha the big one!

The tangential speed of the smaller (and heavier) one will be 1/3 of the other one and it will be much harder to accelerate the big one even if lighter (because in the stock shaft the load is located on the OD..... it is a pipe!).

Try to rotate by hand a small stone with a long wire and a bigger stone with a much shorter wire.......

I dont know if I was able to explain the concept.....
yes it goes as what r**4/c... r is the radius and c is some constant... :confused2: my recollections of Physics are very rusty.
I might as well join the party...here is pic of 6 link with slip shafts after some slight mods to the Dragvette setup.

Humm, those slide shafts are getting popular :)

yeah...for me it was much easier than pulling c-clips as I have never opened up a differential before. Besides...it gives me a ton of more flexibility in rear wheel positioning. I was able to move my rear wheels inwards just enough to allow for 1/8" clearance on my inner/upper inside fender lip and running the 18x10" rear wheels I already cracked the rear fender slightly twice, but now that I moved the wheels slightly inward that 1/8" and also shaved down the inner/upper side of the fender lip that I now nolonger crack my fenders when I hit a bump.
It's also a whole lot better for the stub axles to leave the c clips in, it means they won't move, you have max spline engagement and less wear.

If you crack your fender you should look into some proper bumpstops :)
I still got the stock bumper stops...just the new 275/40/18 with 18x10 & BS= 5.5" is a tad much on the fenders. Here is a pic of me cutting down the fenders. Took a ton of elbow grease (5 mins) and 60 grit sand paper. Nobody will ever notice this unless you look really close and while you are on the ground as it is impossible to see this while standing up near the car.



btw...when I get the car repainted (eventually) I am going to trim off 90% of those inner fender lips on both the front & rear of the car. I really like the smaller fender lip look and besides all it ever does is catch grease/dirt from the road and shows up looking like crap on a red fender so if I trim the lip down to about 1/8" then I won't have to worry about cleaning all that gunk off every time I wash the car.
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