454 build up journal.

B

BlackRat

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2008
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196
Hey guys! I thought I would start this and update it as I go. Tonight I got the crank installed. I will keep updating this with pics as I go.

This pic shows how I polished and profiled the oil passage from the pump. Thanks for the tip Twin Turbo!!!:thumbs:
cris0.jpg


All surfaces were cleaned with brake clean prior to bearing install
cris1.jpg


Liberal use of assembly lube on the bearing face.
cris2.jpg


Crank was thorouly cleaned and carfully set in place.
cris3.jpg



This shows the rear main seal and th use of gasket maker on the edges. Thanks TimAT for the instruction!:thumbs:
cris4.jpg


Crank installed and torqued to 110ftlbs. I torqued in increments of 50,75,110 spinning crank in between each. Crank spins nice and free by hand!!!:thumbs:
cris5.jpg


This just shows the rear cap and the gasket maker oozed out. I did clean this up a bit. DO NOT USE RTV!
cris6.jpg


Next step Piston install!!!:D
:thumbs:
Wade
 
Looking good there, Wade. You could put the flywheel/flexplate on now- it'd make it easier to turn while you install the pistons. Unless you have a socket for the front of the crank. :thumbs::thumbs:
 
Here is an update. I am not done for the day yet but here is my progress. Rotating assembly completely done!!!!


This pic shows where the ring breaks were clocked. a ring spreader was used as the machine shop and the instructions said DO NOT wined the rings on.
pi1.jpg


Close up of rings.
pi2.jpg


Once the rings were installed I dunked the assembly in clean motor oil. Also note the hose on the rod bolts to protect the journals.
pi3.jpg


Looking down into the bore.
pi4.jpg


Piston was set in place prior to wrapping the ring compressor arounds it.
pi5.jpg


Ring compressor installed and piston top was tapped with a rubber handle of a hammer. I had no trouble installing these in the bores but boy it scares me to break a ring....:eek:
pi6.jpg


Rotating assembly completed and rotates free and smooth.:thumbs:
pi7.jpg



That's all for now. I am watching the 3rd round of the Masters.....:D

Wade
 
Cam installed!!!

Cam gear was bolted on to use as a handle.
cm1.jpg


Lobes were thoroughly coated withe the Isky RPM paste.
cm2.jpg


Cam was slowly and carefully slid into the journal so as to not nick a bearing.
cm3.jpg


Cam was installed dot to dot but I will be degreeing it.
cm5.jpg


#1 at TDC when cam and crank were lined up dot to dot.
cm6.jpg


This picture shows that the crank sprocket is used to advance or retard the cam instead of the cam gear. As shown it is installed straight up.
cm7.jpg


I am so proud of my accomplishment!!! Does this engine make me look fat??????:D
cm8.jpg


Next step is to clean the oil pan and heads. I don't have a degree wheel yet and I don't think any of the run of the mill parts stores carry them so I will have to wait till tomorrow and run to the local speed shop. Till then I am going to clean and repaint. Bye bye purple.:( You were bad luck the first go around.....:eek:
 
The engine doesn't make you look fat...however, I bet you feel like a young whippersnapper again!

How far does the piston sit in the hole at TDC?
 
SmokinBBC said:
The engine doesn't make you look fat...however, I bet you feel like a young whippersnapper again!

How far does the piston sit in the hole at TDC?
Click to expand...


How do I check this and what will it tell me? There are so many things I am learning this go around that I definately want to add this to the list.

Funny, 20 years ago when I was learning and blowing things up in the process I was not checking or doing a lot of this stuff. The motors ran but I am sure they could have run better.

:thumbs:
Wade
 
That grease, is it a moly type grease? I would not have used it on the journals, just the lobes. That stuff is thick and may clog up an oil passage.

Also, why did you dunk the piston in oil? Just a little oil on the cylinder walls should be enough. Some manuf. specifically say to isntall dry (total seal). If you need to lube, I always use marvels mystery oil. It burns away clean and elaves no residue/carbon.
 
BlackRat said:
How do I check this and what will it tell me? There are so many things I am learning this go around that I definately want to add this to the list.

Funny, 20 years ago when I was learning and blowing things up in the process I was not checking or doing a lot of this stuff. The motors ran but I am sure they could have run better.

:thumbs:
Wade
Click to expand...

I know it all too well..20 years ago, I just slapped things together...today, I'm reading too much:lol:


Deck height. It is one of the factors used in calculating static compression ratio. There's a lot of calculators out there..here's one.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
 
Sorry I posted 2 of the same engine pics. Must have sniffed to many assembly lubes and and paint fumes....:bounce:
 
Yeah yeah yeah I deserve to get beat up over the purple block.....:rolleyes: I like the red a lot better too. I ordered my cam degree kit yesterday from Jegs. Should be here tomorrow. Just one more thing I am going to learn how to do this time around.....:drink:
 
Get some kind of positive stop tool that you can bolt to the deck. So much easier than clowning around with a dial gauge.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Get some kind of positive stop tool that you can bolt to the deck. So much easier than clowning around with a dial gauge.
Click to expand...


I have a flat peice of aluminum I was going to drill a couple of holes in to mount to the deck over the piston. Will that work? I really don't understand the whole process yet sense I have never done it.
 
As long as it's sturdy it will work. The trick is to rotate the piston till it hits the stop. You then set your dial to 0. Then rotate the other way around till it hits again. You get another reading. The true TDC is halfway between those 2, so note it, rotate the crank so it points to that value and re-zero the degree wheel. What you are doing is sneaking up to TDC from both sides and then the positive stop makes that you hit @ exactly the same pistion height so TDC is halfway between your readings.
 
Ok so I am not concearned at where the piston stops just that it stops at the same place?? I was thinking that it had to be at the top pf the cylinder. Here is what I have set up. The piston comes to a stop about 1/4" below the deck. Is this correct?

deg1.jpg


deg2.jpg


deg3.jpg


Thanks
Wade
 
Wade, I maybe would put another piece of metal under that wrench so you get a wider reading between stops there.....dunno if it makes it easier or not when measuring to the center....get too small a distance there to divide, and you maybe down to calipers....eh, not so bad...

what gets me is using the degree wheel....I got one, but it confuses hell outta me, really...best of luck to you....

:sos::stirpot::fishing::thumbs:
 
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