bobs77vet
Well-known member
and done!!
and some before and afters, the shine was never an issue
and some before and afters, the shine was never an issue
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1958 MGA Coupe
- Thread starter bobs77vet
- Start date
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
wow, that looks amazing. Do you have a favorite compound brand?
bobs77vet
Well-known member
Thanks guys,
On the MGA I am trying the ceramic turtle wax “once and done” and you adjust the cut by changing the density of the pads, this stuff leaves no white over spray residue or white build up . I am really impressed with it. The Meguiars 105, 110 and 205, 210 are really good and also leave no residue. So if it’s a car that I use ceramic stuff on it’s the Turtle Wax. once snd done , then max wax followed by flex wax.
On some cars it looks kind of greasy like too much lemon pledge from the 70s on a polished dining room buffet, if you see that it is ftom too much product being used, used correctly on the MGA it just makes everything pop
If it’s a non ceramic car , like if I buff a scrstch out of a friends car I use the Meguiars products
On the MGA I am trying the ceramic turtle wax “once and done” and you adjust the cut by changing the density of the pads, this stuff leaves no white over spray residue or white build up . I am really impressed with it. The Meguiars 105, 110 and 205, 210 are really good and also leave no residue. So if it’s a car that I use ceramic stuff on it’s the Turtle Wax. once snd done , then max wax followed by flex wax.
On some cars it looks kind of greasy like too much lemon pledge from the 70s on a polished dining room buffet, if you see that it is ftom too much product being used, used correctly on the MGA it just makes everything pop
If it’s a non ceramic car , like if I buff a scrstch out of a friends car I use the Meguiars products
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
well i guess it had to happen some time. went to shift the C5 into reverse and something popped and it was stuck in reverse. it went through all the shift detents nice and smooth but no action at the trans end.
got it towed home, and of course the MGA was on the lift. so jacked it up the old fashion way and the trans lever cable was attached nice and tight so had to be something up front. factory way to repair is to remove the middle of the exhaust system then remove the belly pan covering the torque tube and replace the cable or the bushing. i wasn't opposed to this but it was just me, the MGA was on the lift and I don't have much length to the driveway before the apron to the street starts to slope down so i wasn't sure if i could get the MG off the lift unless the C5 was too far forward and rolling into the street and i wasn't sure i could push the C5 up the apron slope by myself. I figured i could get on the lift by jacking it up and putting the ramps under it so the rear wheels were level with the lift. but getting it up the apron was deal killer. so i decided to go in from the top.
sure enough the front bushing in the had cable had crapped out, cleaned up the cable with an orange pick from HF pressed in a dormann replacement bushing with really long needle nose pliers then used a long HF body panel removing lever to push the cable back on to the ball stud. and only had one bloody hand!!! a win!!
i think now i buy the replacement kit from Zip corvette for the two bushings and next oil change when its on the lift look to see how hard the one in the back is to replace. apparently thats the one that breaks the most
got it towed home, and of course the MGA was on the lift. so jacked it up the old fashion way and the trans lever cable was attached nice and tight so had to be something up front. factory way to repair is to remove the middle of the exhaust system then remove the belly pan covering the torque tube and replace the cable or the bushing. i wasn't opposed to this but it was just me, the MGA was on the lift and I don't have much length to the driveway before the apron to the street starts to slope down so i wasn't sure if i could get the MG off the lift unless the C5 was too far forward and rolling into the street and i wasn't sure i could push the C5 up the apron slope by myself. I figured i could get on the lift by jacking it up and putting the ramps under it so the rear wheels were level with the lift. but getting it up the apron was deal killer. so i decided to go in from the top.
sure enough the front bushing in the had cable had crapped out, cleaned up the cable with an orange pick from HF pressed in a dormann replacement bushing with really long needle nose pliers then used a long HF body panel removing lever to push the cable back on to the ball stud. and only had one bloody hand!!! a win!!
i think now i buy the replacement kit from Zip corvette for the two bushings and next oil change when its on the lift look to see how hard the one in the back is to replace. apparently thats the one that breaks the most
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
impressive
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Wow. That looks too much like surgery. I think they went a little undersized on the shifter pivot
bobs77vet
Well-known member
One of the worst parts is of the 7 or 8 electrical connections to disconnect not one of them was the same type. I was more scared of buggering up those connections then any thing else. Imagine that, actually being scared of freaking plastic pieces with wires in them that magically push together. I will order the Zip bushings this weekend to replace the rear one preemptively, maybe even a full cable to stick in the trunk
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
you know, you could just swap a manual in there to solve those problems ... just...
bobs77vet
Well-known member
one of my daily drivers is a 5 spd, in the city where i live its a PITA, i am fine with an auto although i would like more then 4 speeds.
when i researched replacing the front bushing all the articles said do the rear also, and today was the day. easiy enough to do the hardest part was taking off the gas tank skid plate for some more finger room.
i honestly don't know what was holding that in place, i also bought a new GM cable and an extra bushing to throw in the trunk. i will say it does shift into the different gears very positively now
when i researched replacing the front bushing all the articles said do the rear also, and today was the day. easiy enough to do the hardest part was taking off the gas tank skid plate for some more finger room.
i honestly don't know what was holding that in place, i also bought a new GM cable and an extra bushing to throw in the trunk. i will say it does shift into the different gears very positively now
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
winning!
the biggest problem I have with automatics is they're usually faster....
the biggest problem I have with automatics is they're usually faster....
bobs77vet
Well-known member
some short back ground is needed, about 12 years ago my buddy Jeff S had an extra crew ticket for Lime Rock race track in Ct. the race track was about 45 mins or so away from my home town, where I would go back to visit my parents frequently. so over the course of the next several years i would plan trips to coincide with Lime Rock race events to hang out with Jeff . That lead to going to Watkins Glenn in 2014 with Jeff where I met Eric R. in person and bunch of the other NAMGAR people. As nature tooks its course my trips up north ended. However lucky for me Summit Point Motor sports park is just an hour away and located near by two adult sons.
So some conversations between Eric R and Jeff S lead us to this. My sons joined me at the Summit Point race track with the camper beast (a F250 superduty 4x4 lifted 7.3 diesel) this is the truck we replaced the steering gear, ties rode ends, drag link steering dampner in. it was set up as a high desert camper in Missoula Mt and we brought it east this past summer
the view out the back window
this lead to some light crew activities
which lead to some nice pictures a good time and a beautiful Mark 2 as a pace car
VRG hosted a chili party and the view in and out of the camper
we had a blast.
So some conversations between Eric R and Jeff S lead us to this. My sons joined me at the Summit Point race track with the camper beast (a F250 superduty 4x4 lifted 7.3 diesel) this is the truck we replaced the steering gear, ties rode ends, drag link steering dampner in. it was set up as a high desert camper in Missoula Mt and we brought it east this past summer
the view out the back window
this lead to some light crew activities
which lead to some nice pictures a good time and a beautiful Mark 2 as a pace car
VRG hosted a chili party and the view in and out of the camper
we had a blast.
Looks like lots of fun!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
pretty darn cool
bobs77vet
Well-known member
There was one particularly funny moment when the racers we were helping out asked my sons what cars they grew up with and would race since all the cars they were racing are from their generation and they grew up with them, my son looked at them and said I grew up with corvettes and these car's. Made me a proud dad!!! I did my job. in fact in my avatar the young guy next to me is my older son in the race day pictures
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
pulling my sons axle motivated me for todays work, so if we can pull that big ass F250 axle out how hard could it be to R/R my rear wire wheel hub.
so the ladies were going to Georgetown to do some shopping and my moment of opportunity was upon me. definitely a fat cat today in the heated garage.
so easy work getting the wheel off the runway and wheel off. only one wheel is on a jack stand so the axle is tilted
a couple of machine screws in hub and its pulled off the axle hub
pulling out is no problem every thing looked good
so the ladies were going to Georgetown to do some shopping and my moment of opportunity was upon me. definitely a fat cat today in the heated garage.
so easy work getting the wheel off the runway and wheel off. only one wheel is on a jack stand so the axle is tilted
a couple of machine screws in hub and its pulled off the axle hub
pulling out is no problem every thing looked good
bobs77vet
Well-known member
next is pulling welch plug i drilled it off center but i should have drilled it in the middle, off center my screw slide hammer didnt work so i mig welded a bolt to it and pulled it off
next came measuring the axle to the hub and pressing it out
next came measuring the axle to the hub and pressing it out
bobs77vet
Well-known member
and the pressing part a 20 ton press, I used an impact socket to get the depth i needed.
then it was cleaning it up dressing/deburring the end of the axle splines and re pressing it in place
then it was cleaning it up dressing/deburring the end of the axle splines and re pressing it in place
bobs77vet
Well-known member
thats what we call BINGO and added the welsh plug with some gasket sealant around it
and badda bing badda boom
and done!!! HAPPY HOLIDAYS everyone
and badda bing badda boom
and done!!! HAPPY HOLIDAYS everyone
It's nice to be working indoors! Also nice to start and finish a job in one day.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
well I have been putting this task off too long, some where along the way I realized that i had my facet cube pump installed in the worst off all positions with the inlet on top and the out put on the bottom. the car ran great the pump was very clicky so it was not high on my redo list. But today was the day
heres the worst possible way to have these oriented , i must have missed that part of the installation instructions
so todays effort figure out how to reorient it and make a new bracket.
disconnect everything
mock up a new orientation and make a template for the new bracket
16 gauge steel , i used a contour sander to clean up the sheet steel before cutting it
heres the worst possible way to have these oriented , i must have missed that part of the installation instructions
so todays effort figure out how to reorient it and make a new bracket.
disconnect everything
mock up a new orientation and make a template for the new bracket
16 gauge steel , i used a contour sander to clean up the sheet steel before cutting it
bobs77vet
Well-known member
test fit
paint and install
no leaks and it much quieter then before!!!
paint and install
no leaks and it much quieter then before!!!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
looks great, but what's that red stuff between the springs?
Nice work Bob! Gave me pause to think about how mine is oriented in my Midget, but while the inlet is slightly higher than the outlet the flow is mostly horizontal. Mine is pretty noisy too, but I always just figured that's the way they are. I can't hear it over the exhaust once it's fired up anyway...
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
thanks, i like that midget! I had no issues running mine completely up side down, so i can attest to the fact that they work in any position
The beast needs some love, this is our ( my sons) trailer tow vehicle and camper we take to the race track.
1999 F250 superduty 4x4 7.3power stroke diesel
The brush guard winch mount has two tabs for mounting that have broken welds
So we are going to show it some Bob love
This is the idea, We chose option B
And the first part of making it
We will make the diagonal cuts in the field and decide which side of the off set cut the tab bolts up to and the final length of the bracket
Tomorrow we weld the big tubes in the middle to the side supports
Stay tuned
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
Thought you would get a kick out of this, I found a local gas station selling ethanol free 90 octane pump gas for $4 a gallon , which is hard to do in northern Virginia, filled up the car and went for a ride the odometer was at 64997 and I was excited to see it hit 65,000. , the car never made it to 65,000 the odometer just started adding ten thousands and thousands like miles and tenths of a mile
so i decided to take it out and look at it
well first real obstacle was i could not unscrew the knurled knob on the trip odometer reset so i was left to try and see what I could do from the dials on the front and the smaller discs on each side of the number.
i could use the jewelers screw driver and move the numbers, i started at the 1s. 10s, and 100s some of them i could i move in both directions and some only down so i was turning them just trying to see where i hit resistance and then something just fell into place and i could only move the numbers down to the bottom of the number. i could not move it forward or beyond the bottom of the number. the 1s i could always move down the rest were seemingly tied in to each other.
the number it settled on was 26,400.
i chucked up my drill with a square bit and turned to CCW and it hit 60 mph and then ten minutes later it was 26,410.
so it went back in
so i decided to take it out and look at it
well first real obstacle was i could not unscrew the knurled knob on the trip odometer reset so i was left to try and see what I could do from the dials on the front and the smaller discs on each side of the number.
i could use the jewelers screw driver and move the numbers, i started at the 1s. 10s, and 100s some of them i could i move in both directions and some only down so i was turning them just trying to see where i hit resistance and then something just fell into place and i could only move the numbers down to the bottom of the number. i could not move it forward or beyond the bottom of the number. the 1s i could always move down the rest were seemingly tied in to each other.
the number it settled on was 26,400.
i chucked up my drill with a square bit and turned to CCW and it hit 60 mph and then ten minutes later it was 26,410.
so it went back in
Have you actually put 64997 on the car?
bobs77vet
Well-known member
No I live in northern va basically DC I drive 6 miles in 30 minutes, I have put about 750 miles or 2200 hours on the car, the highways around me are battle zones.
ellisonbrooks
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You’re absolutely right — every car really does have its special day! This one definitely felt like it. Hard to believe how far it’s come when I look back at those early photos. Seeing it shine and get so much attention at the show made all the effort worth it. Thanks for following along — it’s been quite the journey!
