1958 MGA Coupe

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well here is another bite of the elephant and may be the last thing i had to do before i can wrap up this side.

this is the foot well body mount and bolt

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this is the template cut out of thin cardboard

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this is it laid out on a piece of austin healey 3000 frame i had laying around

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some slight persuasion happening

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some times things dont fit in the vise to bend when the sides are already bent so i used a piece of flat stock to make the jaws wider

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the rough shape

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all seams are welded here is the final fitting and welding

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to make a nice rounded fit around the bolt hole i used an old steel washer welded to the bottom of the bracket

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thks guys

happy Veterans day to everyone thanks for your service, I actually think about all those who came before me and gave me the right to vote when I am in the voting line.


worked some more on the finishing the pass side.
heres the need for the inner panel

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heres the template for the inner panel

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here I am bending the piece

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this is how you get extra leverage with brake

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now to fit the big panel and creat the flange< it its upside down in the photo

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these are deep C clamps I use on the sheet metal break and are good for many things

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you can see the good penetration by the heat discolortation on the panel

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My god, that car is a metal swiss cheese and you'll filling all the hole one by one.
This is crazy, in a good way :nuts:
 
yes lots of swiss cheese but whats good about this project is that there is very litttle out of pocket expense on this, just welding consumables. i needed a project this time that was more time intensive than $$$ intensive. I am still recouping from a wedding this past summer.

well we are getting close to wrapping up this side....

heres the panel fitted in place for welding

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I added the supports for under the door posts and painted the inside with cold galvanizing primer over the weld through primer and then 3 coats of rustoleum glossy black

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here the interior with gloss black. I will use the mig welder for the welding on this and I will grind away the paint that is exposed prior to welding

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heres the test fit before the third coats of paint and I will let dry before I weld it in place.

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What a great day yesterday was! I got to go on a road trip with my oldest son, meet fellow NAMGAR member George Kress , work on an MGA and Tour George's car collection. George had been watching my post and realized he had exactly what I needed and offered a donation to the cause of a front shroud, front frame extension, and unbent radiator. I glady accepted this generous offer! Our road trip started at 6:00am yesterday and we reached George's shop by 9:30am. We started the dissassembly process and by 11:20 the three of us had wrangled the front end off the parts car. After we got the Shroud loaded into the Pick up the fun really started and we toured George's extensive car and parts collection and enjoyed every moment of it. About 12:30 we had everything loaded up and headed back home. It was a great Day with my son and it was really enjoyable meeting George and I look forward to seeing him again at one of the NAMGAR car shows....maybe even with my coupe wearing the new front end!

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Front frame extension

well i got to work this am on removing the front frame extension from the shroud and worked on it a little bit to bring it back into tip top shape. one of the bumper mounts got bumped when the car got moved into the shop and it broke off when i removed the frame extension and it will get welded back on later this week



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here is how i will remove the bolts

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i take this stuff serious and i gear up for it and use a full face mask, hearing protection and thick leather gloves, not like these numb nuts on TV who use no protection

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here it is removed

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all and all its in pretty good shape and way better then my mangled one on the coupe

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here are the side extensions hammered back to shape, it didnt take much

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working out a little dent, we wont let momma know i am using her potting table...

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here it is wire brushed

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I printed off of Barneys site the front frame extension dimensions and will use that as a guide to finishing the reworking of the piece
 
Nice work. I love how many people you meet in this hobby because of doing your build on the 'net. People you'd never meet had you not taken the time to photo document and build

I agree about the safety stuff, my favorite are the ones welding without gloves (ouch), or long sleeve shirts.
 
How do you..? Where do you..? What is that...? I don't even...

You my friend are a glutton for punishment! Are you sure there was really car there? The amount of sheet metal work is very impressive! Great project.
 
thks guys some more nibbles tonight....and time to wrap up this side.....tonight I welded the inner sill and patch panels into place. I spaced the welds about 1" - 1.5" apart and started at the middle and worked my way out, metal has a way of growing on you when it gets hot. tomorrow i will go back and fill in all the voids and grind the welds down

heres the trial fit

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heres the welder for the sheet metal using .025 wire, I have welded more with this welder then you can possibly imagine and it keeps on going.

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heres the last of the welding, its important to have lots of clamps or vise grips holding things tight

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I finished the inner sill welding tonight I used a wire brush to make sure that there was no paint left bewteen the areas I was welding>

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its important to inspect the welds....if you look closely you can see my bead in the middle is a little too high and moves off the bottom piece. look for the straight shiney line. ths is no big deal just lay another bead along side of it.

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heres a good example of the original tack weld and then the follow up running bead

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now just have some grinding to do and we can paint it

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well while the turkey was cooking I snuck out side for an 1.5 hrs...
the need...


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clamp the metal to cut it with an electric shear


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you can also use the break to hammer form the metal

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some times the clamps will not reach where you want them to go so just tack it and use a hammer to flatten out the seams

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ok this is just because i can...i am filling up a gap

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a few more nibbles of the elephant tonight, I used the O/A rig to put this back together and to bend it back into shape I still have a little more to do tomorrow to it.


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today everything fought me.....so I am calling it quits after a few hours, some times you have to know when to back off....


I did get the frame extensions bent back to the right dimensions though

reworked side

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original good side

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IMG
 
well I decided to try my luck again and it went much better, I fixed the hole in the tubing on the frame extension and then primed it.

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did a little bit of grinding and test fitted the other bumper bracket

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and then to the primer, i am so old i still think of it as red lead primer

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another hour or so this am after little Joe went back to college


cutting out the rust

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the filler piece from scraps

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the set up

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the tack

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the copper so it doesnt burn through and stick to my anvil

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voila

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this is the last time i am going to spend time looking for sharpies, my mig pliers or the ground strap

use graph paper to line it all up

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painted

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woohoo never put a grinder with a cut off wheel in the hands of a 55 year old....


looks like the bottom of the frame horn is tweaked slightly

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I took many photos of hood gap for reference pictures

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removed old frame extension

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comapred it to the new one and they line up where they should and are different where i would expect them to be

made some imaginary cut lines way forward of where i think i am going to splice them
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and then made a different cut line even more ahead of those
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spent a few more minutes fitting the frame extension i just had to hammer down one of the front frame horns a few mm's took about 3 hammer swings to get it right...time to contemplate the next move

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nibbled some more today on the elphant (about 2.5 hours)....i think i have decide to replace the entire wheel well and use the lap seam on the side of the inner wheel well. this will give me no unusual seams on the inner fender. the inner wheel wells that i have are from a later model year and have different stamped indentations, so i think i will just the entire inner fender at this point and use factory seams


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i fitted a ply wood radiator for ridigity and wire brushed the valance and inner wheel wells

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I needed to do some clean up in the garage and needed a quick hit on the car, so i grabbed the seats and did some work on them. i cut the old seat tracks off and welded a repair piece into the rail on one so we could wire brush it.

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some more light work today.....i am making templates of the seats to figure how to make the roadster seats into coupe seats. really no surprises both the roadster seat frames and the coupe leather seat covers appear to me mirror images of each other. what i am missing is the height measurement of the coupe seat. i dont think i will have a problem cutting the frame tubes and making the seat backs to have the same curve but i really need the height measurement of the internal two vertical supports.


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well no guts no glory....lets mock this thing up. from all of the templates it looks like if i make mirror images of both short sides i will be really close

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i cut a 1" piece of the solid stock to use as a locating pin
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i used a wood pipe clamp to pull the sides together
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i decided to make the sides the same size and will use the outside measurement of the tape measure since there are no weld beads to interfere with the measurement
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i used an axial clamp ( thks to Santa) to make sure the tube aligns properly

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here you can see where i tacked the out side bend and this is with the two seat backs next to each other

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and heres the final mock up all tack welded up.

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very much horse hair type stuff

i finished the coupe seat conversions and primed the drivers side inner sills and worked on the front shroud some


heres the finished seat back

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the primed sills

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and now for the shroud work i am straightening it out a little bit at a time


heres the pattern

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heres the tool a piece of angle iron with a handle welded on it

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heres a low spot that has been hammer formed by slipping it under the radiator duct valance and hammering it,

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i worked on this for a little while and you can see it start to un wrinkle itself, the idea is to work it a little bit at a time in the reverse order the damage handled

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i was thinking about this and just needed to go back out and play some more, unfortunately earlier today i found out that my camera doesnt give me a warning when the memory is full and the photos stop getting saved. So a lot of the before pictures are gone but lets try and reconstruct

here if you look closely you can see where the bottom of the flange is pushed up towards the radiator duct valance

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so the idea is to figure out a way to apply the least amount of force to get it to come back to shape. sometimes you just have to play with setups to get the results you want. so there is a large 5x5 angle iron on the inside and then other angle iron on the out side so my lever only moves the piece of metal that i want to deflect. and my radiused hammer form is clamped so the lever is rocking against that so i dont distort the radiator duct valance

idea is to lever the piece down

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and the final result

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your metal skills are top notch.

your decision to build that car rather than start with a clean sheet of metal - is pretty cool as well :thumbs:
 
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