Noonie, looks like we off and running.....

[mrvette]

Sense wire tells the regulator to charge.
CS alt is the style that comes on a LS1 engine, that I assume you're going to use.
The interlock overrides the seatbelt safety cutoff. It's problematic, the relays are worth a bunch and best to just bypass it. The green comes from the neutral start switch. Relay is on the pass firewall with a button on the end for override.
If you are using a CS alt you may want to run another 10ga red parallel from the alt to the solenoid bat post to handle any potential amperage.


Sounds like that old discussion with Baskin back some years ago.....

I can see wiring heavy loads direct to the alt output stud....and heavier wire to the horn relay like I did.....my Spals are wired direct to the output stud....

I do fail to see why any heavy wire needed to the battery, either direct or to the starter cable....

 

[010752]

I use a pretty simple rule.
The charge wire should handle the max amperage the alt can put out.
For example, I go about as long as I can with older batteries, and it's common to have these almost drained after sitting ovenite and one start cycle.
So with that example and using a volt meter I get 14.7vdc for about the first 15min or so, but more importantly with a 63 amp alternator, it's pumping 55+ amps thru the 10ga at that time. If it were a 144amp cs instead, it would still be the 14.7vdc, but around 140 amps. Too much for the 10ga. Or if the battery develops an internal short etc.
I know the area where we don't agree and that's where I prefer an ammeter to a volt meter.

Ford had numerous fires/meltdowns in their trucks in the 90's for the same reason, undersized charge wire.

Baskin's deal was a little different, he had spikes that trashed electronics. He had no failures with the Mustangs his system was designed for because the battery was always up front and filtered the juice for his unit.

 

[mrvette]

I use a pretty simple rule.
The charge wire should handle the max amperage the alt can put out.
For example, I go about as long as I can with older batteries, and it's common to have these almost drained after sitting ovenite and one start cycle.
So with that example and using a volt meter I get 14.7vdc for about the first 15min or so, but more importantly with a 63 amp alternator, it's pumping 55+ amps thru the 10ga at that time. If it were a 144amp cs instead, it would still be the 14.7vdc, but around 140 amps. Too much for the 10ga. Or if the battery develops an internal short etc.
I know the area where we don't agree and that's where I prefer an ammeter to a volt meter.

Ford had numerous fires/meltdowns in their trucks in the 90's for the same reason, undersized charge wire.

Baskin's deal was a little different, he had spikes that trashed electronics. He had no failures with the Mustangs his system was designed for because the battery was always up front and filtered the juice for his unit.

I see no sense to that, never have, never have done it, if the battery is pumped with more current when flat, it's barely able to start the car in the first place, and then you get into boiling acids type crap which is typical of Chrysler operation than GM....I don't wire accessories to the battery, just the stock setups, so nothing changes in the charge setup...just because a alternator is capable of putting out more amps, don't mean jack about what the battery will draw upon charging....it's preferable to have the voltage drop in the stock setup, forcing a fast charge will boil the battery, you need to have some current limits to it.....

:flash:

 

[010752]

I use a pretty simple rule.
The charge wire should handle the max amperage the alt can put out.
For example, I go about as long as I can with older batteries, and it's common to have these almost drained after sitting ovenite and one start cycle.
So with that example and using a volt meter I get 14.7vdc for about the first 15min or so, but more importantly with a 63 amp alternator, it's pumping 55+ amps thru the 10ga at that time. If it were a 144amp cs instead, it would still be the 14.7vdc, but around 140 amps. Too much for the 10ga. Or if the battery develops an internal short etc.
I know the area where we don't agree and that's where I prefer an ammeter to a volt meter.

Ford had numerous fires/meltdowns in their trucks in the 90's for the same reason, undersized charge wire.

Baskin's deal was a little different, he had spikes that trashed electronics. He had no failures with the Mustangs his system was designed for because the battery was always up front and filtered the juice for his unit.

I see no sense to that, never have, never have done it, if the battery is pumped with more current when flat, it's barely able to start the car in the first place, and then you get into boiling acids type crap which is typical of Chrysler operation than GM....I don't wire accessories to the battery, just the stock setups, so nothing changes in the charge setup...just because a alternator is capable of putting out more amps, don't mean jack about what the battery will draw upon charging....it's preferable to have the voltage drop in the stock setup, forcing a fast charge will boil the battery, you need to have some current limits to it.....

:flash:

You just like voltmeters instead :harhar:

 

[mrvette]

I use a pretty simple rule.
The charge wire should handle the max amperage the alt can put out.
For example, I go about as long as I can with older batteries, and it's common to have these almost drained after sitting ovenite and one start cycle.
So with that example and using a volt meter I get 14.7vdc for about the first 15min or so, but more importantly with a 63 amp alternator, it's pumping 55+ amps thru the 10ga at that time. If it were a 144amp cs instead, it would still be the 14.7vdc, but around 140 amps. Too much for the 10ga. Or if the battery develops an internal short etc.
I know the area where we don't agree and that's where I prefer an ammeter to a volt meter.

Ford had numerous fires/meltdowns in their trucks in the 90's for the same reason, undersized charge wire.

Baskin's deal was a little different, he had spikes that trashed electronics. He had no failures with the Mustangs his system was designed for because the battery was always up front and filtered the juice for his unit.

I see no sense to that, never have, never have done it, if the battery is pumped with more current when flat, it's barely able to start the car in the first place, and then you get into boiling acids type crap which is typical of Chrysler operation than GM....I don't wire accessories to the battery, just the stock setups, so nothing changes in the charge setup...just because a alternator is capable of putting out more amps, don't mean jack about what the battery will draw upon charging....it's preferable to have the voltage drop in the stock setup, forcing a fast charge will boil the battery, you need to have some current limits to it.....

:flash:

You just like voltmeters instead :harhar:

:shocking: of course......:beer: