Budget 454 build

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Yellow73SB

Yellow73SB

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I am going to build a 454 for my truck.

It was a big block with around 240k miles.

Right now everything is stock, 4 bolt main, cast crank, peanut port heads.

I'd like to get around 500 hp out of it.

I need to get heads probably also.


Looking at this kit for 1k, it seems like my best bet. I would have to reuse my rods, so bolts and a recondition is around 170. But it pretty much has everything

If I do the stroker I could probably get close to 600 hp. But is 600 hp going to be reliable enough to drive a trail for a few hours?

http://www.usaperform.com/chevy-engine-rods-cast-crank-flat-pistons-bearings-p-421.html


downsized_0505001919.jpg

Just thinking out loud. It seems like the costs really add up quickly :push:
 
Just about anything BB drives the cost up. Getting your HP numbers and being really reliable is not a big hill to climb.

For about another $800, you can get an internally balanced stroker kit with forged parts- that alone will help overall durability- and that's including rods too. For a 4.25 stroke, from what I've learned, you really need to go with 6.385 rods. Helps keep rod angles to a better level. Add some main studs, some good heads and keep the compression around 10:1 or maybe a little less. With the correct cam and head choices you can make lots of torque.
 
240K miles and everything stock... including a stock bore ???? Wow, a well maintained engine if that's what it is....

Since you're saying "budget".... how about spending money on a good bottom end first and then buy heads later ? You can get a stroker kit and use the heads you have for now, until the wallet allows further improvements...

just my 2c :crutches:
 
How about heads first and run it till it breaks? You'd be surprised what those stock bottom ends can handle.
 
I vote for stroking it first :D I just figure it's easier to swap heads later as that can be done without pulling the engine.
 
I think the heads first idea sounds good.

I will probably have to get new pistons to get the compression up though.

This brings up the second question, what heads?
 
Yellow73SB said:
I will probably have to get new pistons to get the compression up though.
Click to expand...

Agree... most likely you'll need higher CR and new pistons. Now you're looking at machining the block.... might as well throw the stroker kit in there now if that's what you're planning on anyways.

What's the stock CR ?
 
One thing you might run into with raising compression just by swapping heads- open chamber heads usually run around 118cc's. If you go with a smaller chamber you'll have to be careful with piston selection later. You can't run closed chamber heads (that have inherently smaller chambers) with open chamber pistons. Open chambers breathe better. The peanut port heads don't breathe too well, but they will make decent torque. Just limited RPM because they can't flow enough air. Oval port, open chambers are the best bet for big torque numbers at lower RPM.
 
I think I'm going to use the peanut port heads and port them out as good as I can.

I have been doing some research and this guy "vortecpro" is making a ton of power with them.

It looks like hes using a "280 isky mega cam". This seems like a pretty big cam, he is obviously porting the heads better than me, so maybe I should step to a cam one size smaller.

I guess I'll get an oval intake, it looks like hes using a rpm air gap. I would assume port matching the heads would be a good idea.


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211267
 
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Ok, some good news today

I can get heads and KB hyper pistons and rods with ARP bolts within the budget.

The heads are larger oval ports, he is going to do a 5 angle valve job. The pistons are flat top with single valve relief, he said this should be around 9.5:1.

He also has retrofit hydraulic roller lifters I can get for a good price also.

Also has many aluminum intakes.

So really all that is left is cam shaft selection, he has some of these, but I want to get the best cam for the application possible.

I can get custom cams cut down the street and he said he could give me a core.
 
Yellow73SB said:
Ok, some good news today

I can get heads and KB hyper pistons and rods with ARP bolts within the budget.

The heads are larger oval ports, he is going to do a 5 angle valve job. The pistons are flat top with single valve relief, he said this should be around 9.5:1.

He also has retrofit hydraulic roller lifters I can get for a good price also.

Also has many aluminum intakes.

So really all that is left is cam shaft selection, he has some of these, but I want to get the best cam for the application possible.

I can get custom cams cut down the street and he said he could give me a core.
Click to expand...

You mention hours at a time of trail use. If that is low speed/low rpm use I would be a bit concerned about the retro fit rollers.
 
Ozzy said:
Yellow73SB said:
Ok, some good news today

I can get heads and KB hyper pistons and rods with ARP bolts within the budget.

The heads are larger oval ports, he is going to do a 5 angle valve job. The pistons are flat top with single valve relief, he said this should be around 9.5:1.

He also has retrofit hydraulic roller lifters I can get for a good price also.

Also has many aluminum intakes.

So really all that is left is cam shaft selection, he has some of these, but I want to get the best cam for the application possible.

I can get custom cams cut down the street and he said he could give me a core.
Click to expand...

You mention hours at a time of trail use. If that is low speed/low rpm use I would be a bit concerned about the retro fit rollers.
Click to expand...


Are the retrofit rollers not good for low RPM/Speed? Or is it the constant bouncing of the engine on the trail that is the problem?
 
I'm pretty sure hydraulic rollers would be best lifter to have for what I want.
 
sounds like a interesting budget build. Take a few photos during the build, when are you assembling it ?
 
I think for a cam I am going to do 224/234 .595/.595 110 LSA

It's at the cam shop right now with another cam to get verified, I'll post the new specs if they change
 
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I have no vacuum advance at idle (has a vacuum cutoff for idle, first and second on the MT). Initial advance falls at 11.

I had to modify the idle circuits of my Qjet to get more AFR at idle. Before I modified, it was running too lean...around 14AFR at idle. Idle was crappy....more of a lean roll. My BB likes 12.5AFR at idle. Idle is lopey but consistent at roughly 700+ RPM.
 
Do you have enough vacuum to run the vacuum brakes?

I think I'm, going to try a 830 double pumper from a NASCAR team. It's the only larger carb I have right now

Did you get your engine dyno'd?

I imagine it's probably worth while to get my engine dyno'd and tuned.

30hv9zl.jpg
 
I'm getting about 11" vacuum. Should be enough to run the brakes. My brakes are manual.

Are you putting on headers? Don't you think that 830 might be a little much? Bigger CFM carbs are better at higher RPM's. I am running my 750 and it runs much better than my 800. The secondaries are opening earlier on the 750 which gives me more power at midrange RPM's. If you are going to be off-roading, I would think that you probably want better low/midrange torque..no?

Run your truck and specs through the holley carb selector. It will tell you the size carb you should get.

I had mine dyno tuned. 530 ftlbs tqe at 3400 with 460+HP at around 5400. Had a problem with the stock distributor...it crapped out on the dyno at 5400. Have a DUI on there now and it pulls to 6k....I haven't revved it any higher than that.
 
Yeah maybe it is too big, it probably flows more than 830 also

I think I have another carb, but it's vacuum secondarys and I'm not sure what size. Hopefully it's a 750
 
Not so much anymore :smash:

I was planning on having more money after the build to do some other things, but it looks like those will have to wait a bit

Edit:

Heres my retrofit lifters from crane

2u6d0ye.jpg
 
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