Long Overdue Progress! Doors Finished 3/17/26
- Thread starter BBShark
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Looks like the motorcycle guys are on this big time. I did find automotive stuff most seem like they are made for 1/8" cable. The door latch cables are less than 1/16" as are most of the motorcycle cables.
I'm pretty impressed with the results from the YT video. When he drilled the piece of wood I thought, this is going to be a disaster. Very surprised at how well it turned out.
I'm pretty impressed with the results from the YT video. When he drilled the piece of wood I thought, this is going to be a disaster. Very surprised at how well it turned out.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
yes they are used in british sports cars all the time let me find a link
dorman part number 03336
dorman part number 03336
Thanks. I ended up buying NAPA's version of those. They are the only ones I could find with a 1/16' hole (cable is 1/16").
bobs77vet
Well-known member
the british cars use them for all sorts of applications and you can find them with different bracketry on them one even is even like a barrel bolt to go on a 1/8" round shaft with the cable coming out the other end. and used for all the controls on the heater. defrotster heater box, choke, accelerator cable etc. all 1/16"
Brackets would be nice. Is that something you can find at Moss?
bobs77vet
Well-known member
you can find the pictures of them for sure (MOSS catalog), they do a pretty good job of showing the illustrations. i dont know if they stock them or not. certainly pictures of the, choke cable, accelerator cables carb linkages, pull starter, heater controls and heater boxes will show the bracketry. any late 50s or 60s british cars have them, the MGA is on the lift i bring it down this weekend and I will take pictures of all the termination points, on my car, if nothing else it will get the creative juices flowing.
Change of plan on the door panels. I was going to use the XPS foam board that you but at Home Depot. Then shape it with a Surform grater, then harden the surface with fiberglass mat. I tried a test with that stuff and what a mess. Also really difficult to cut out a recessed (concave) surface. Now I'm thinking about using 10 or 15 lb foam that can be CNC'd. So then I can model it and prove the fit before making it. The start:
So, finally a little progress! The mechanical latch and the electric latch are in. The frame for the door panel is finished. Need to wire in next.
phantomjock
Well-known member
CNC-ing the foam will be a mess - too. But you'll have better control over the shaping.
BIG ADVANTAGE- both door panels will be correct mirror images.
BTW - I'm guessing its a router and not hot-wire?
The "HAWK" hanging on the ceiling - ornithopter RC - kite - or?
Your pic reminded me - I need to hang up my dollies... and ruggle scales frames.
Gotta dig out now that Spring has Sprung!
Cheers - Jim
BIG ADVANTAGE- both door panels will be correct mirror images.
BTW - I'm guessing its a router and not hot-wire?
The "HAWK" hanging on the ceiling - ornithopter RC - kite - or?
Your pic reminded me - I need to hang up my dollies... and ruggle scales frames.
Gotta dig out now that Spring has Sprung!
Cheers - Jim
I will probably just do it the old fashioned way now that the weather is better. Making a huge mess outside instead of in my garage.
The giant metal eagle hanging is almost ready to take outside. It has hinged wings and sits on a pivot with a heavy counterbalance. The wind moves the bird wings slowly so it looks like its flying. I am going to paint it up like a Bald Eagle before I put it out. I'll post a picture when I get it set up
The giant metal eagle hanging is almost ready to take outside. It has hinged wings and sits on a pivot with a heavy counterbalance. The wind moves the bird wings slowly so it looks like its flying. I am going to paint it up like a Bald Eagle before I put it out. I'll post a picture when I get it set up
Started on the XPS buildup of the perimeter glued to the frame:
FRAME
GLUED ON BLOCKS
FRAME
GLUED ON BLOCKS
phantomjock
Well-known member
Next step? Shaping these blocks for morphing the C-6 panels in?
These are going to be interesting.
Cheers - Jim
These are going to be interesting.
Cheers - Jim
This stuff is a complete mess to work with. I got most of it shaped with a saw and a Surform tool. This stuff is really sort of rubbery so a Surform tool basically rips the surface off into shreds. Then I sanded with 60 grit orbital. The glue lines will not cut or sand the adhesive and I can't really find what people are using to fair this stuff.
Here is what I have so far:
Here is what I have so far:
Electric door latch finally done w/push button entry
Richard454
Well-known member
NICE- I use a waterproof electric roller switch- has a NO and NC outputs- Can add a relay so when the ignition is on- the switch is inoperative unless your foot is on the brake.
Also have a SS bracket made up for it. Have about a thousand of these in the field with my wiper kit- no failures!!!
Also have a SS bracket made up for it. Have about a thousand of these in the field with my wiper kit- no failures!!!
Nice product. I don't have a wiper door anymore but if I did....
bobs77vet
Well-known member
that push button is awesome!!!
can you use a fiber glass coat over the foam board to even it out and make sanding easier?
can you use a fiber glass coat over the foam board to even it out and make sanding easier?
Still have some tweaks to do on the cables for the latches.
The Home Depot foam I used is sort of shapeable, I see a lot of people making surfboards out of it. But my focus right now is to get the doors functional and come back to the door panels after body work and paint.
The Home Depot foam I used is sort of shapeable, I see a lot of people making surfboards out of it. But my focus right now is to get the doors functional and come back to the door panels after body work and paint.
So not much progress but I have been dealing with a fuel sender problem that is harder to fix than it seems. First off, the fuel senders for these cars are complete garbage. I am only using the Corvette sender and I installed it years ago. After all, I was thinking these things are not complex, they have been making them for 100 years, etc. My concern at the time was the fuel pump. I am using a modern pump that came with a float arm that was attached to the pump. I figured I had to block the bottom of the tank with something so I used the original style sender. Big mistake.
I bought a generic sender for a 0-90 ohm GM product and adapted the rheostat to work with the junk sender (that no longer extracts fuel) and put 5 gallons of gas with Stabil in it. I put 1 gallon at a time until the modern pump was picking up fuel. Then bent the arm until it was showing 5 ohms (empty).
So now I'm ready to sit around all winter and not work on my car!
I bought a generic sender for a 0-90 ohm GM product and adapted the rheostat to work with the junk sender (that no longer extracts fuel) and put 5 gallons of gas with Stabil in it. I put 1 gallon at a time until the modern pump was picking up fuel. Then bent the arm until it was showing 5 ohms (empty).
So now I'm ready to sit around all winter and not work on my car!
Last edited:
Fuel gauge sender fixed.
Electric push button door latch and window electrics done! I have a 2 second gif but get error message every time I try to load.
Electric push button door latch and window electrics done! I have a 2 second gif but get error message every time I try to load.
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that's elegant, very nice!
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