Weight reduction: Running out of ideas.

[phantomjock]

Try the Ruggles - I found them easy enough to use - after struggling with some digital postal scales (400#). They were error prone with the slightest surface imperfection. The shop had a small divot we didn't see and struggled all day to correct cross weight, but it was data input error! Now in my garage and better floor. But still like the Ruggles.

Yes, the Sports Renault can be quite tail happy, and under powered. I'll post in separate thread once I get the engine back together. Plan is get it going, race it once/twice, then sell it. Full court press on the 'vette.

Cheers - Jim

 

[69427]

Starter weight and fitment questions.

I'm currently running a C4 PMGR (Denso) starter. It's 10.25# versus about 18# for the original Delco starter. I've seen some aftermarket starters that are about 7.5#, and that got me thinking about some of the other GM PMGR starters used in cars and trucks. I'm curious about the weight on those, but also if any of them fit a 153 tooth flywheel. Anyone know any details about the non-Denso/non-C4 type starters I'm referring to?

Thanks.

 

[rtj]

I’ve bought a few of these Chevrolet Performance High Torque Mini Starter Small Block and Big Block Chevy. Says 10 lbs.

I bought a csr for the camaro, I’ll check the model no.

 

[69427]

I’ve bought a few of these Chevrolet Performance High Torque Mini Starter Small Block and Big Block Chevy. Says 10 lbs.

I bought a csr for the camaro, I’ll check the model no.

Thanks!

 

[rtj]

CSR 100spd. Starts the car instantly but their idea of high torque mini starter looks like 12 lbs on the only weight I could find. Sorry.

 

[69427]

CSR 100spd. Starts the car instantly but their idea of high torque mini starter looks like 12 lbs on the only weight I could find. Sorry.

Not a problem. I appreciate the information.

 

[rtj]

This jegs unit is 8 lbs, is under $200, and has good reviews. I’ve bought a bunch of their stuff without issues and they accept returns.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100...6QIVhIXICh1sWwUkEAQYBSABEgIR-_D_BwE#reviewTab

 

[phantomjock]

Just wondering...

have you considered replacing the rear window with Lexan? A bit of a job, but there might a bit of savings (weight) there, and you could kill 2 birds..


These could dump air into the rear deck when open - and when closed - might leak!

Cheers - Jim

 

[69427]

have you considered replacing the rear window with Lexan? A bit of a job, but there might a bit of savings (weight) there, and you could kill 2 birds..


These could dump air into the rear deck when open - and when closed - might leak!

Cheers - Jim

My rear window is removable with two clamps.

 

[vette427sbc]

Is the 68-73 removable window actually glass? Or is it already some kind of plastic? It doesnt feel like glass when I give it the "tap test" and feels lighter than I would expect for glass. I never have mine in anyway, but its all scratched up and would be an easy piece to make out of lexan if it would take out a pound or two

 

[69427]

Is the 68-73 removable window actually glass? Or is it already some kind of plastic? It doesnt feel like glass when I give it the "tap test" and feels lighter than I would expect for glass. I never have mine in anyway, but its all scratched up and would be an easy piece to make out of lexan if it would take out a pound or two

Whenever I tap that window, it always sounds like plastic. It doesn't have the "sharper" ring of actual glass.

I always remove the t-tops and rear glass when I run the rare autocross, but keep those all on during track days. Quieter drive, and an extra illusion of safety.

 

[rtj]

You probably saw this, but if not, it is under 8 lbs:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Chevy-Lightweight-Starter-1-0-kW,2400.html

Good reviews.

 

[69427]

You probably saw this, but if not, it is under 8 lbs:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Chevy-Lightweight-Starter-1-0-kW,2400.html

Good reviews.

I took a look at that. I do like the stated weight. But, real life kicks in. I can't justify the cost of that starter for the 2.75# weight reduction compared to my C4 starter. I looked around some more, and found a DB Electrical starter that is .6# heavier than the Speedway piece, but is $130 cheaper, and apparently has 70% more power.

My net result is slightly over 2 pounds lighter, and I can probably sell the C4 starter to get most of this purchase price back.

I'm just finishing up getting the car back together, so hopefully tomorrow I can see if this new starter was worth the effort.

I appreciate your post. Even if I can't afford the absolute lightest parts, it does give me a metric to compare the parts I can actually afford.

 

[BBShark]

How about this. The U shaped frame that holds the Headlight door has two struts that run between the two lower bolts on the actuator and the "legs" of the U frame. They are about 8-9 inches long, about 5/16 or 3/8 dia. steel rods and there are 4 of them. Quick calculation is about 1/4lb each. Remove them or replace w/ aluminum?

Just a thought. I'm installing headlight assemblies right now and it kind of struck me that these weren't very useful. In fact you have to loosen them to tweak the U frame forward legs into place. Then the rods don't fit very well. When tightened, they probably put more stress on the U frame than act as a gusset.

 

[69427]

How about this. The U shaped frame that holds the Headlight door has two struts that run between the two lower bolts on the actuator and the "legs" of the U frame. They are about 8-9 inches long, about 5/16 or 3/8 dia. steel rods and there are 4 of them. Quick calculation is about 1/4lb each. Remove them or replace w/ aluminum?

Just a thought. I'm installing headlight assemblies right now and it kind of struck me that these weren't very useful. In fact you have to loosen them to tweak the U frame forward legs into place. Then the rods don't fit very well. When tightened, they probably put more stress on the U frame than act as a gusset.

I'll take a look at them. Thanks.

 

[rtj]

Mybad79 gutted some doors and really dropped a lot. I wonder what gutted doors with carbon fiber skins would weigh. Then those massive barn door hinges could go. I’ll search maybe someone already make them for drag cars.

Edit
https://www.dynamiccorvettes.com/pr...r-skins-pair-with-handle-door-lock-delete-c3/

Cosmetic mostly.


They sell fiberglass bumpers and grille trim. Also custom image makes them. Probably mentioned earlier.

 

[69427]

Mybad79 gutted some doors and really dropped a lot. I wonder what gutted doors with carbon fiber skins would weigh. Then those massive barn door hinges could go. I’ll search maybe someone already make them for drag cars.

Edit
https://www.dynamiccorvettes.com/pr...r-skins-pair-with-handle-door-lock-delete-c3/

Cosmetic mostly.


They sell fiberglass bumpers and grille trim. Also custom image makes them. Probably mentioned earlier.

Swapping out the door hinges for lighter pieces is on my to-do list. I need to borrow/rent some hinges in the near future so that I can do the jig and fabrication work without taking the car out of commission for the duration (my fabrication projects NEVER go as quickly as I think they should).

 

[69427]

Coolant expansion tank weight?

Anyone know the empty weight of the early C3 aluminum expansion tank (until I get a free moment to pull mine off)?

It's about perfect weather for roaming the local junkyards, so I might just carry my small capacity weight scale with me on the next trip to see if I can find a slightly lighter replacement.

I'm assuming I may have to look around a lot, as it seems that some/most modern tanks are after the radiator cap (ie: unpressurized), rather than before the cap (pressurized).

I suppose I also need to figure out the expansion volume needed for my size cooling system.

 

[BBShark]

I don't have one to measure but they are surprisingly light. Very light gauge aluminum.

 

[phantomjock]

Maybe a Plastic Tank? A lot of cars seem to use those - maybe not so "flash" looking - but gotta' be light weight. I could measure the one in the SR. Bet it holds a quart of coolant as overflow/reservoir--maybe more.

Check out the Dorman universal - 8 bucks:

Cheers - Jim

 

[Red77]

Ford uses pressurized tanks on the majority of the vehicles they've built in the last 20-25 years. Having worked with several in the late 90's, I'm not sure there's much weight savings with the ones I worked on compared to the Harrison tank on your 69. Takes a lot of plastic and glue to contain the same heated pressure than a thin aluminum tank can withstand. That being said, it may still be worth a look with a scale. They aren't hard to remove and there must be a ton of them in the scrap yards to choose from.

 

[69427]

Ford uses pressurized tanks on the majority of the vehicles they've built in the last 20-25 years. Having worked with several in the late 90's, I'm not sure there's much weight savings with the ones I worked on compared to the Harrison tank on your 69. Takes a lot of plastic and glue to contain the same heated pressure than a thin aluminum tank can withstand. That being said, it may still be worth a look with a scale. They aren't hard to remove and there must be a ton of them in the scrap yards to choose from.

I suspect you are correct on your points here.

 

[69427]

Trying a lithium battery.

I ordered a lithium battery to try out. I was initially interested in Antigravity's 680CA 4# model, but the sales guy there wasn't confident that it would work satisfactorily in my car. He steered me to the 880CA model, that to my frustration was 25% heavier and similarly 25% more expensive. I bitched and grumbled for a few days, and then finally said screw it, and decided to give it a try. I'm waiting for it to arrive sometime within a week, and I'll let you know if it was money well spent, or completely wasted.

I'm presently using a 16# 360CA $35 garden tractor battery, which works quite well in my car. This new battery has pretty big shoes to fill.

 

[BBShark]

How about this. The U shaped frame that holds the Headlight door has two struts that run between the two lower bolts on the actuator and the "legs" of the U frame. They are about 8-9 inches long, about 5/16 or 3/8 dia. steel rods and there are 4 of them. Quick calculation is about 1/4lb each. Remove them or replace w/ aluminum?

Just a thought. I'm installing headlight assemblies right now and it kind of struck me that these weren't very useful. In fact you have to loosen them to tweak the U frame forward legs into place. Then the rods don't fit very well. When tightened, they probably put more stress on the U frame than act as a gusset.

I'll take a look at them. Thanks.

Here is another opportunity to remove weight with the headlights. There are brackets on each headlight door that limit the opening of the door. I think you will find that these do not really work anymore. There were rubber stops on the adjustment screws that are probably long gone. These weigh 1lb each! So removing those and the brace rods is ~3lbs of the nose of the car.

 

[69427]

Another easy one (relatively speaking)...
The "headlight opening cover stop" I just looked at mine and it is 1/4" thick steel! Looks like a prime candidate for some aluminum with some speed holes

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-headlight-opening-cover-stop-right-1970-1982.html

We're on the same wavelength. :thumbs: (I've since opened up the holes a bit more.)

Larry, you, vette427sbc, and I have the same thoughts on those overbuilt parts. :thumbs:

 

[69427]

I managed to take a half pound off by swapping out the 3/4" heater hose between the water pump and the expansion tank, and replacing it with 3/8" hose (less material and water weight).

Took another quarter pound off by replacing the distributor shield steel brackets with aluminum substitutes.

Made the R&P steering attachment bracket out of aluminum, and drilled a few holes in the steel LCA crossmember, for about a 3# reduction in weight. The aluminum LCA replacement crossmember is about 80% finished, and should end up about 8# lighter than the present steel crossmember. I just ran out of time, and put the steel crossmember back in the car so I can get it ready for some track days this month.

I have an aluminum cold air box that seals up to the L88 hood, that I might be able to replace with thinner aluminum. I couldn't weld the very thin stuff very well when I made the box, but I'm curious if I can do the thin material with those aluminum "soldering" rods I see advertised. I need to pick up some of that stuff and practice on some thin pieces of aluminum sheet.

 

[69427]

Lithium battery installed.

I got the lithium replacement battery installed yesterday in the passenger side storage box (where I've had the batteries for several years). The battery is a touch taller than my garden tractor battery, but 10# lighter (the website says this battery is 5.25#, but my two HF scales each say 5.75#. Oh well.). The battery cranks my engine quite well, seems happy with my lightweight Denso alternator (13.6v), and so far has been able to deal with some hot engine/minor flood cranking episodes while getting the newly installed distributor retimed. Hopefully this decent luck will continue.

 

[vette427sbc]

What brand is the battery? I just bought an odyssey PC625 but with 6mm studs instead of the typical SAE terminals so I can ditch the heavy “lead” cable ends for some much lighter (duty) ring terminals

 

[69427]

What brand is the battery? I just bought an odyssey PC625 but with 6mm studs instead of the typical SAE terminals so I can ditch the heavy “lead” cable ends for some much lighter (duty) ring terminals

It's the Antigravity ATX-30 model. It has the "square" top terminals that uses vertical bolts to hold down the cable loops.

I've been running custom cables (aluminum wire and terminals on the latest) with loop ends to work on the previous garden tractor batteries.

 

[69427]

Formed wire style distributor clamp

Had one of those odd wire-type distributor clamps in a pile of old parts. It was a couple ounces lighter than the ubiquitous stamped steel clamps, so I put it on the other day while I was retiming the distributor. Hopefully the reason these things are rarely seen is not because they don't clamp well.

Any horror stories about these?