Old Project Revitalized - 56 Track Car

[mfain]

Well, I am dangerous with a chain saw. The firewall has to go back another 6 inches to move the motor back further (for a total of 15 inches) so the dry sump pump will clear the lower control arms. At least I finished up the trunk floor that I had to cut up to install the Decalink rear suspension.

 

[BBShark]

Nice clean work. I have to cut the trans tunnel in my car and have been using an air saw. Works OK but its slow and wanders. What are you using to cut the firewall?

 

[mfain]

Nice clean work. I have to cut the trans tunnel in my car and have been using an air saw. Works OK but its slow and wanders. What are you using to cut the firewall?

I used a larger electric saws-all (cheap - Harbor Freight) for the longer cuts, a 5 inch cut-off wheel in some places (messy), and a small air saw for the hard-to-get-to spots. I was surprised at how much control you actually have over the saws-all.

 

[vette427sbc]

Looking great! I really like the fuel filler and catch pan :beer:

 

[phantomjock]

Nice work Pappy. :thumbs:

It is amazing the variety of blades you can find for a saws-all. And less mess than an angle grinder too. It is becoming my go-to for fiberglass cutting. Just sourced a new 10" aluminum cutting blade for my circular/table saw too.

Cheers - Jim

 

[vette427sbc]

I have a little SnapOn air saw that fits (not supposed to, but it works) sawzall and jigsaw blades. Sawzall blades for the straight cuts, and the jigsaw blades for cutting curves or tight spots. I put a swivel/right angle air fitting on it to help get into tighter places where the straight hose might get in the way.

 

[phantomjock]

What a great idea! I'll have to check my Harbor-Fright tool and see if possible.

 

[mfain]

I had to put the differential in to make some measurements to align the motor as I build new mounts for it. I bought a Harbor Freight trans jack for $136.00 and it sure made lifting the differential into place easier. The DSE hammer head diff. is aluminum, but it's damn sure not light!

 

[69427]

I had to put the differential in to make some measurements to align the motor as I build new mounts for it. I bought a Harbor Freight trans jack for $136.00 and it sure made lifting the differential into place easier. The DSE hammer head diff. is aluminum, but it's damn sure not light!

View attachment 2291

It sure is purty though. :thumbs:

 

[mfain]

I guess you can move the motor back as far as you are willing to use a chain saw. LOL I am completely re-doing the frame X-member to accommodate the set-back and to clear the rear mounted starter. The motor will be 16 inches behind its original position and the drive shaft will be 18 inches long. I managed to preserve all of the driver foot-well length and a new shifter from American Powertrain moves the shifter forward on the transmission. The new bracing between the two halves of the X-member (not yet shown) will go solid over the front of the transmission and there will be a removable trans mount connector to add rigidity. I can now pull the trans straight back and out the bottom of the car with ease - big improvement over having to come out through the passenger compartment. The Tilton bell housing has "ears" that serve as the mid plate. I will add brackets on the X-member next to the bell housing for them to bolt to. I modified the X-member to move the header tubes up and further outboard for ground clearance and to get the heat further away from the transmission. The new headers (built by a pro) will be stainless 2.25 inch tubes into merge collectors and a 3.5 inch X-pipe. BTW, did anybody notice the "up-angled" tail pipe exits on the C 8R? Looks like they are doing that to create a low pressure area above the diffuser to help its efficiency.

 

[vette427sbc]

Setback motor looks great! You are behind the front axle line, and then some, no?
Will your exhaust exit at the rear? or a side/dump?

 

[mfain]

Setback motor looks great! You are behind the front axle line, and then some, no?
Will your exhaust exit at the rear? or a side/dump?

Thanks. #1 spark plug is 18 inches behind front axle centerline. Weight distribution should be between 45/55 and 40/60. I took almost 30# out of the car with the X-member/frame mods and the aluminum motor and light weight clutch saved another 150 lbs, but I probably added 30 lbs with the DSE rear suspension. Today I ordered a carbon fiber OMP full containment seat that only weighs 16#. I am now sure I can stay under 2800#, and I am shooting for 2600#, but it will take a lot to get there. The exhaust is rear exit - above the diffuser. It runs from the header merge collectors to an X-pipe just behind the rear transmission mount, then through the mufflers and up and over the axle shafts. If you look at the earlier photos of the finished trunk area you will see the "inverted tunnels" I had to build to allow the exhaust to go over the differential/axles. I am looking at angling the exhaust up slightly as it exits above the diffuser (ala C8R) to see if that improves diffuser efficiency.

 

[rtj]

Looks great, I be interested to know the weight distribution now.

BTW, did anybody notice the "up-angled" tail pipe exits on the C 8R? Looks like they are doing that to create a low pressure area above the diffuser to help its efficiency.


Yes, sort of a jet ejector principle. Some call it a jet pump. They even sood a leaf blower with an ejector attachment, not sure if they still do.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

loving seeing your work - gives me a goal to work towards with my builds.... a long, long, long, long distance goal.

 

[mfain]

Even though my transmission X-member won't carry a lot of load since the motor is on mid and front motor plates, I still needed a strong, rigid member to act as a bridge between the two halves of the main frame X-member. I moved the X-member up for exhaust clearance and completely rebuilt it to accommodate the motor which was moved further back and to the right. The X-member is also very asymmetrical due to driver side foot-well requirements and the rear mounted starter. You can also see, in the photos, the brackets that pick up the rear motor plate, which is actually built into the Tilton bell housing. This stuff just takes forever.

 

[Red77]

A true work of art. Transmission crossmembers aren't usually sexy, but this one is. Inspiring work!

 

[mfain]

Got my Driveshaft from Mark Williams - 7075 aluminum, 18" long. That should give you an idea how far back I moved the motor.

 

[rtj]

What did he charge, if you don’t mind if I ask. Was it lighter than chromoly ?

I’ve bought some yokes from them and they are very nice.

 

[mfain]

What did he charge, if you don’t mind if I ask. Was it lighter than chromoly ?

I’ve bought some yokes from them and they are very nice.

Shaft was about $900, and the quick release yoke was $380 - all balanced as a unit. The 7075 is lighter (thinner but stronger) than the 6061 aluminum and even lighter than the carbon fiber at this length because of the way the ends are bonded. In longer lengths the carbon fiber shafts are lighter as the CF tube itself is lighter per inch than the aluminum. Both are much lighter than the chromoly.

Pappy

 

[SRountree]

Wow that's nice!

 

[rtj]

What did he charge, if you don’t mind if I ask. Was it lighter than chromoly ?

I’ve bought some yokes from them and they are very nice.

Shaft was about $900, and the quick release yoke was $380 - all balanced as a unit. The 7075 is lighter (thinner but stronger) than the 6061 aluminum and even lighter than the carbon fiber at this length because of the way the ends are bonded. In longer lengths the carbon fiber shafts are lighter as the CF tube itself is lighter per inch than the aluminum. Both are much lighter than the chromoly.

Pappy

Looks good, thanks for the info.

 

[69427]

What did he charge, if you don’t mind if I ask. Was it lighter than chromoly ?

I’ve bought some yokes from them and they are very nice.

Shaft was about $900, and the quick release yoke was $380 - all balanced as a unit. The 7075 is lighter (thinner but stronger) than the 6061 aluminum and even lighter than the carbon fiber at this length because of the way the ends are bonded. In longer lengths the carbon fiber shafts are lighter as the CF tube itself is lighter per inch than the aluminum. Both are much lighter than the chromoly.

Pappy

Welding 7075 is a pretty recent development. Your supplier is keeping up on the latest tech there. :thumbs:

 

[vette427sbc]

Got my Driveshaft from Mark Williams - 7075 aluminum, 18" long. That should give you an idea how far back I moved the motor.

Its only 2" longer than one of my half shafts! It does put the engine setback into perspective :devil:

 

[mfain]

Jigsaw puzzle. Looks like I can salvage quite a bit of the old firewall.

 

[mfain]

I needed one more connector between the two halves of the frame X-member for rigidity, to serve as a front driveshaft hoop, and to carry one of the seat bracket mounts. Will weld it in tomorrow.

 

[rtj]

Nice.

 

[mfain]

Nice.

Thank You.

 

[mfain]

New brakes.

 

[phantomjock]

Pappy -

That combo looks sweet.
Any chance on a link?
Which upright - was that a c5/6 I recall - or am I off on that?
I
Progress! Me too soon - if/when the weather holds up - and get the SR back on the track and off my plate.

Cheers - Jim

 

[mfain]

Pappy -

That combo looks sweet.
Any chance on a link?
Which upright - was that a c5/6 I recall - or am I off on that?

Progress! Me too soon - weather holds up - and get the SR back on the track and off my plate.

Cheers - Jim

Hey Jim,

The front uprights are Speedtech ATS - they use C6 ZR1 hubs/bearings and C6 brakes. The rear is a Detroit Speed Decalink that also uses C6 brakes. The front rotors are 372 mm with CP 9660 calipers and the rears are 340 mm with 9449 calipers. I am using Ferodo Racing pads. A good link is www.essexparts.com

Pappy