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it's funny, as I was drafting the post, my first thought was "why didn't I check the length and photograph it?" it's coming, but for now I don't know.

The track width will be at least 4" wider. I'm seriously considering building a tube structure that welds or bolts to the frame.... but who knows, I'm still in the envisioning phase - at this point my lean is towards keeping the stock steering and reversing the spindles; however, that may not be possible.... in any case, I'll post it as it happens (there will be no coloring me as knowledgeable - only dumb enough to make the mistakes to see what happens) :chinese:
 
You said you might go with tube, I really like what this guy did, link to photos.


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I originally welded in a C-3 cross member and used C-3 control arms and a rear steer box. Then I modified the cross member (narrowed it in front and built pick-up points for C-4 control arms) and added a Woodward front steer rack. Then I modified the cross-member even more to add my own fabricated control arms and a Sweet Engineering R&P. The front tube holds the Speedway Engineering swaybar and the pick-up points for the control arms are on slugs to adjust roll center and anti-dive. the rack is adjustable fore and aft for Ackermann adjustments.

Pappy

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much to consider.... in answer to the prior question - how does it compare with the C3 lower arm... within an inches of the same (size)

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thank you, I was rather surprised how well it turned out... especially the red
it behind my truck
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I'm going to start this thing.edited I know it's kind of silly to do it but I want to hear it and I do have a concern about the deck finish and the cometic gaskets.... you know that story about 'it should be fine'?edited yeah... I want it to run in unfinished form so when I pull it down to the frame to make it pretty, I won't be revisiting this (and still I plan to drive this for the 2019 Colby Cruise....)

In that vein, spaghetti... errr... wiring
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I tried these butt connectors out - I dunno if I recommend them or not (longevity is unknown) but I do like how simple it is to put to wires together with just heat and no crimping
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the gauges light up.... I really only care about oil pressure at the moment - but they all work .... O2 sensor and fuel on the top, oil pressure, temp and volts on the bottom.edited Yes, it's still carb'd but tuning is so much easier with a wide band O2 sensor on the dash....
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Hard to beat the big block fun factor. Looking forward to the c5 conversion.

I should mention, the crossmember photos (I stole/linked) above were for a drag car with an extensive cage. One tube might not be sufficient otherwise. But, it’s so clean, I was really impressed.
 
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Hard to beat the big block fun factor. Looking forward to the c5 conversion.

I should mention, the crossmember photos (I stole/linked) above were for a drag car with an extensive cage. One tube might not be sufficient otherwise. But, it’s so clean, I was really impressed.

I agree, one tube is nowhere near enough.
 
Starting.editededited

2 gallons wasn't enough fuel to fill the hydramat, so when we were starting it, (and since I've no idea where the turkey baster I stole got to) it was just enough to make sure it ran, had oil pressure, and all else was well.edited I put another 5 gallons (all with fuel stabilizer) in it, and the pump primed.

If you pay close attention, you see I screw with something behind the carb.edited it's the ground wire for the coil.edited Apparently it needs to be grounded when you're trying to start the car.edited FYI, an allen wrench can substitute for a screw.

the accelerator pumps were not working, front works now, rear is going to take a bit more playing with

2 bolts do not keep valve covers from leaking oil - the other bolts are there now.

Sunday I'll start it and run it for real - might even put the muffler portion of the sidepipes on.

Then I will answer the question about whether the surface on the block is going to work with the cometic gaskets - that said, since it contained the compression without tossing the cap off the radiator, I think I'm good.

I'm still smiling and an occasional woohoo comes out when I think of how it sounds
 
Congrats on the startup. I'm hoping to do the same in the next month. Wish me luck!
 
If anyone wants to know why I hate wiring - I'll tell you - 9.6 volts.edited Why is that so bad? well let me tell you, a wire that should have battery voltage (12.4ish), has 9.6 volts.edited In a 76 Corvette, stock wiring.edited Never mind this car doesn't turn all the circuits on with the ignition switch at it really isn't too Bubba'd.edited But somehow it manages to defy electrical theory.....edited

then there's the bulb that is on. There is no reason for it to be on, but there it is.... illuminated.
 
Here's how much I hate it: I had all kind of similar problems with mine when I got it, so for my second Christmas after I got the car Santa brought my Vette a Painless Wiring 18 circuit harness kit. That was 1995...

Guess what my winter project is this year now that I have a garage again? Sad that my 'new' wiring harness kit is older than my son that turns 21 tomorrow. LOL

Good luck and keep at it, your progress is inspiring. :-)
 
Here's how much I hate it: I had all kind of similar problems with mine when I got it, so for my second Christmas after I got the car Santa brought my Vette a Painless Wiring 18 circuit harness kit. That was 1995...

Guess what my winter project is this year now that I have a garage again? Sad that my 'new' wiring harness kit is older than my son that turns 21 tomorrow. LOL

Good luck and keep at it, your progress is inspiring. :-)

lol... but you did give me an idea - I can get on my dad about how he hasn't finished the wiring harness I bought him for his 65 Malibu... my favorite salv, transference :stirpot: :thankyou:
 
I don't know who that old, fat guy is in the video.edited His wardrobe is called "Garage Hobo"

now thats funny, i promised my wife when i was done with the MGA project all the Garage Hobo stuff was going to get tossed....its not like i dont have enough khakis/Hawaiian shirts and polos to cover the day...
 
finally, distraction is done and I can get onto Corvette stuff.... just as soon as I finish the deck project (fortunately, there's really not much left to do)

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sure, I could buy it but I built it :drink:

there's a few extra things I'm going to do (hydraulic ram being one, receiver for winch being another) like baby moon hubcaps.... but now it's useable and use it I will
 
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The baby moons will be a nice touch. Especially when you have the Buick up on the trailer. :-)
 
a bit more of the elephant.... got the u-joint so I can get the driveshaft shortened

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it's a 1330 (small diameter) to 1350 u-joint..... I know there will be disappointment, but I'm not shortening the shaft - I still have a few things to do on the lathe (like figure out why the tailstock doesn't adjust)edited I also don't have a steady rest, add need to balance and there it is....edited
 
Story time..... 3" would have been better but 2 will do
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anyone considering this particular swap, get the flat plate, not the full billet bit.edited feeding it through the hole was a bit of a challenge
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onto the e-brakes
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take the old mounts
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attach them to the front of the frame - crossing the ebrake cables to take up some length
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close
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take a die grinder and carbide bit and open the holes up so the cables slip through
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simply attach the cable through with a 2" spacer. Eventually, I'm going to do better, (and add that bit in pictures) but for now it works

it's funny, those 20" wheels I hate so much are coming back - 18s will NOT go over these brakes.edited I could probably get away with 19s but since the plan is a nearly 16" wide rear wheel, larger rims will be fineedited
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cleaned up and in place
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next is run brake lines.

before anyone gets on me about how it looks.edited I'm putting this together, putting black stripes on my driveway and road, then pulling the frame out and making it all pretty... but unlike the land cruiser, I'm going to actually put 100 or so miles on the whole suspension before I blow it back apart.
 
I think that's a great plan. Better to work out all the bugs before you finish weld everything. This is a DRASTIC change in design over the original and you really don't know what weird things might pop up as you are shaking it down. I would add a 0 to that 100 and make the shakedown 1000 miles. You are building a prototype chassis here of sorts much like GM's skunkworks does with each new model of Corvette. That takes some time and testing to make sure you are happy with it.
 
I think that's a great plan. Better to work out all the bugs before you finish weld everything. This is a DRASTIC change in design over the original and you really don't know what weird things might pop up as you are shaking it down. I would add a 0 to that 100 and make the shakedown 1000 miles. You are building a prototype chassis here of sorts much like GM's skunkworks does with each new model of Corvette. That takes some time and testing to make sure you are happy with it.

I agree - I should say "100 trouble free miles" which is usually 1000 miles total..... of course GM is concerned with things like stopping, turning, and all-weather reliability. I like those features, but it's not like they're necessary ;)
 
For those curious - the bolt into the axle flange is a M12 x 1.5 bolt.edited If you go to you local bolt dealer, they will look at you like you've grown a 3rd head (and it's a stupid as the other 2).edited You can buy them, but be warned, you will get a bunch of BMW wheel bolts in your search.... why, GM, why?edited you think you're better then 1.25 and 1.75 pitch?edited

the trans bolt is the same, and you cannot use GM bolts because they are a lot too long.
 
they're always my last option because it usually takes at least a week to get anything from them.... I think I have the right ones now, but I need to get a car off the lift to go back...

In other questions, are there aftermarket, manual racks for the c5/c6?
 
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