Weight reduction: Running out of ideas.

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My '78 Non-Tilt/Non-Tele weighs in @ 17.5# -- and its For Sale!
Includes a Grant aftermarket wheel - missing horn button - and needs some cleanup from sitting in the garage. Pics will follow or PM if interested!

Cheers - Jim

OBTW - Check out the latest posting on C5/C6 IRS over @ http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7751&page=5
it's a weight issue too!

I'm always interested in lighter stuff. I'm under the impression that there's some electrical wiring differences between the older and newer columns, but let me know what you're asking for it.

Mike, I have the OEM non tilt column from my '72, been gathering dust for some 18 years, I will take a air jet to it to cut shipping costs.....yours if you want it....

:clap:

how easy is this swap??? wiring differences????
 
Was doing some research on carburetors last night and Quick Fuel is claiming (one of) their carbs weigh 4.5 lbs less than a competitors carb...

I ended up buying their road race 650, Ill be reporting back if it is any lighter than my holley 650 or not :D

I really need to get a scale to start weighing this stuff... My quick fuel carb came in today and is a good amount lighter than my holley. Almost 1/2 the weight according to my "hand scale":surrender: Got to be at least 2 lbs off the front end and high up!
 
Was doing some research on carburetors last night and Quick Fuel is claiming (one of) their carbs weigh 4.5 lbs less than a competitors carb...

I ended up buying their road race 650, Ill be reporting back if it is any lighter than my holley 650 or not :D

I really need to get a scale to start weighing this stuff... My quick fuel carb came in today and is a good amount lighter than my holley. Almost 1/2 the weight according to my "hand scale":surrender: Got to be at least 2 lbs off the front end and high up!

Holley is offering aluminum body carbs. A little weight savings. Don't know what their resistance is to alcohol laced fuels. I'd think their traditional pot metal based carbs are very susceptible to corrosion from alcohol based fuels.
 
You already have the Wilwood Aluminum Calipers - but these come with an Aluminum Hat on the rotors;
12695262d7d905a8f.jpg

And, when you empty the wallet there are a few more ounces saved!
(They have the rears too - that is where the AL hats are.) That would make 112# or so for all 4 - minus the Wilwood Caliper weight difference...

Cheers - Jim
 
Save 56 pounds off of the front end? Sounds really great, how does the weight savings add up?

The stock cast iron brake calipers weigh about 16 pounds each. The aluminum calipers weigh about 8 pounds each. Ok, 16 pounds off the front by going to aluminum calipers. Where's the other 40 pounds coming from? Rotors with aluminum center pieces will reduce weight, but I don't think 40 pounds. I'd like to get weight off my cars were ever possible.
 
Just a word of caution: that brake setup pictured is for drag racing, not for street or track use..... It's different slowing your car own once at the end of the strip or 100x in 15 minutes.....
The rotrors are probably half as thick as stock, the hubs are probably aluminum..... Just guessing, havn't seen that particular kit in person.....
 
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Karsten - Well Spoke!

But you can add thicker - RR Rotors and just adjust the width (spacers between the caliper housings) of the Aerospace Components brakes to match the rotors- slight weight penality. BUT, huge stopping 4 piston and weight savings to boot! I have the 4x4 pistons going on front and rear - for road racing. Will report as we complete. C5 Rotors on rear - thicker - C3s to start up front. And now -- C5 uprights - postings tomorrow, or next week as build... sorry I tease/

BTW -- dragging down a 3000# Beast from 200mph is no small task! Cooling the rotors for repeated use may be - like on a RR. Hope to know in a month or so.

68/70 - that is the TOTAL weight redux - not just the rotors -- the Aerospace Components Calipers are AL bodies AND Aluminum Hubs- so there is more there to account for.

Cheers - Jim
 
Ditched all the hood latch mechanism and went with allstar aluminum hood pins...

getting ready to ditch my stock steering column and mounts for the sweet steering column and mounts... I went with Ultrashield seats and kirkey alloy seat mounts...

Lighter is better unless you are talkin TRUCKS :clap:
 
replace hood with lightweight hood skin & dzus fasteners/pns although it would be a little obvious
 
You already have the Wilwood Aluminum Calipers - but these come with an Aluminum Hat on the rotors;
12695262d7d905a8f.jpg

And, when you empty the wallet there are a few more ounces saved!
(They have the rears too - that is where the AL hats are.) That would make 112# or so for all 4 - minus the Wilwood Caliper weight difference...

Cheers - Jim

The drag race stuff scares me. On a road course you need to use the brakes more than once.

IM000703.jpg

I got 12 or 13# per corner reduction on the front (can't remember if I weighed the calipers with the pads or not), and slightly less than that in the back using the narrower/lighter C4 rotors.
 
Maybe it has been said, but the original windscreen is about twice as thick as today's replacements. Lot of weight loss right there.

Interesting. I wasn't aware of that. The current windshield is a replacement (installed about 1985 IIRC). I might see if I have any luck measuring the thickness at the bottom near the cowl area, and then comparing that to some other windshields (new or original).

I have some later (lighter) side windows, but I'm still in the process of making them fit my earlier design door mechanisms.

Thanks. :thumbs:
 
Post up the thickness of your glass when you get a chance... I have a new PGW windshield in mine that Ill measure to compare
 
Post up the thickness of your glass when you get a chance... I have a new PGW windshield in mine that Ill measure to compare

Couldn't get a truly accurate measurement of the thickness with my caliper jaws as the wiper door opening wouldn't let me get the jaws in straight, so I had to use the depth gauge on the other end. Nearest I can figure, my windshield is about .225-.230" thick.
 
PGW windshield measures .1875" at the wiper base.

Well, looks like I've got the old style thick one. ****.

Wonder what these windshields weigh, just to get a rough idea of the weight difference between .1875" thickness and .225" thickness? Is it even possible to remove these windshields without breaking them (for resale to someone else)?

I appreciate your info!
 
I tried to take my old one out myself without breaking it... Unfortunately that seemed impossible. This is my 3rd windshield in the car :push: and every time I see them remove the glass they destroy it. Although, if your glass is held in with the old style butle (sp?) I would think it may come out on a hot day or with a heat gun. Not a chance with the new glues they use.

A quick google search says the average windshield weighs 25lbs... a very rough estimate of a c3 windshield surface area of 2x4ft would give a volume of ~260in^3 at .225" thick.
At .1875" thick, it would be 216in^3
If that was the case it would be almost a 5lb savings. Not bad assuming my math is correct :footmouth: I had a new windshield put in for $200. Thats also not too bad if you look at it in lbs/$
 
PGW windshield measures .1875" at the wiper base.

Well, looks like I've got the old style thick one. ****.

Wonder what these windshields weigh, just to get a rough idea of the weight difference between .1875" thickness and .225" thickness? Is it even possible to remove these windshields without breaking them (for resale to someone else)?

I appreciate your info!

My stepson was messing around in the pickup, and hit the windshield from inside with his fist, and broke it like a good size stone would from outside, huge spider web.....I got a used windshield at a junkyard, installed for 130 bux total,

It was a very interesting education they have a tool like a 18 volt Dewalt Sawzall, and in the blade position they had a metal tool shaped kind of like a flat shoe horn so the went around from inside hammering this thin blade into the glue crap, lifting the glass hardly at all, removing NONE of the interior trim, or outside trim either....sure the crack did expand with removal of the w/s but if it was intact, as exhibited by the used one they laid out to remove the gunk, they removed it off the frame too, put new gump down, flopped it in place, taped it up to the top to keep it in place, free to drive away, 2 daze later removed the tape....been fine, I was amazed at how thin the glass was....:D
 
Hi,

Have you removed the Astro ventilation door mechanism at the trunk area?
Alot of sheet metal pieces there that is easy to remove!
 
Since I'm restoring the Astro ventilation tonight I took the liberty to weigh the complete piece including the vacuum can and the result?
1460 grams equal to 3 pounds!!

Hope this helps.
/Daniel
 
Since I'm restoring the Astro ventilation tonight I took the liberty to weigh the complete piece including the vacuum can and the result?
1460 grams equal to 3 pounds!!

Hope this helps.
/Daniel

Thanks. If you have an opportunity please post a picture of the assembly. I've got the front suspension torn apart right now and it's going to be a while before I stick my head inside the car to look at what's involved in removing the vent system.
 
I also just noticed the other day on ebay that some of the headlight bezels were metal?? Mine were fiberglass, presumably re-pros.
 
I also just noticed the other day on ebay that some of the headlight bezels were metal?? Mine were fiberglass, presumably re-pros.

My originals are potmetal. I've also got some spare bezels that are fiberglass. I don't know if they're later C3 bezels or re-pros. For some reason I thought they were/are in GM boxes.

Just curious, how was the rear vent stuff fastened? Bolts or rivets?
 
Hi,

Afew photos as promised.
The ventilation mechanism is obviously blasted in the photos. There are several layers of rubber or foam seals that is glued to the doors. Very disgusting stuff to remove... Hair, dust, animal parts and God knows what else:sick:

The complete assembly, It is screwed with 3 screws at each side. The vacuum can also has three screws. Weight 3 pounds.
187752cefe869c32a.jpg

Close up and vacuum can.
187752cefe86d7853.jpg

A photo that shows the flap door opened. The vacuum can only opens it an inch or so when it is assembled.
187752cefe8701e53.jpg
 
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