windshield bond

I"m going to listen up to this one, and if I'm nutz lemme know....

I would lay a bed of black RTV down, let it cure over night, lay another bead over it, set the glass, support it well into position, next day fill the channels around the edges with same black RTV, seal in the stainless trim all around, and call it a day....WATERPROOF no matter WHAT.....

let the flames begin....


:clobbered::crylol:
 
mrvette said:
I"m going to listen up to this one, and if I'm nutz lemme know....

I would lay a bed of black RTV down, let it cure over night, lay another bead over it, set the glass, support it well into position, next day fill the channels around the edges with same black RTV, seal in the stainless trim all around, and call it a day....WATERPROOF no matter WHAT.....

let the flames begin....


:clobbered::crylol:
Click to expand...

That's the way i'd do it too. But, my opinion accounts for squat around here. I might just spacer it with rubber shims and do it all at once though.

Strong enough to never pop out. Seals extremely well so that it never leaks. Flexible enough not to crack it. Soft enough to be able to cut it out in a reasonable amount of time to put the next one in.

Walmart carries the new fast drying GE stuff that's rain ready in 3 hours for the cheapest i've seen. Around 5 and change per tube.
 
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The stuff the previous owner used is every where, black and very sticky. I have spent hours just scraping and pulling the stuff off. May try acetone tomorrow. What a pia.
 
turtlevette said:
mrvette said:
I"m going to listen up to this one, and if I'm nutz lemme know....

I would lay a bed of black RTV down, let it cure over night, lay another bead over it, set the glass, support it well into position, next day fill the channels around the edges with same black RTV, seal in the stainless trim all around, and call it a day....WATERPROOF no matter WHAT.....

let the flames begin....


:clobbered::crylol:
Click to expand...

That's the way i'd do it too. But, my opinion accounts for squat around here. I might just spacer it with rubber shims and do it all at once though.

Strong enough to never pop out. Seals extremely well so that it never leaks. Flexible enough not to crack it. Soft enough to be able to cut it out in a reasonable amount of time to put the next one in.

Walmart carries the new fast drying GE stuff that's rain ready in 3 hours for the cheapest i've seen. Around 5 and change per tube.
Click to expand...

Well, I used RTV to seal in the pop tops on the camper, the front and rear safety glass on the overhead in front, and the rear windows are fixed in place, and so new glass was installed with RTV for the entire install, cured over night, then the frame/glass reinstalled into the camper....works fine....

dunno why it wouldn't work good for a car windshield....

:smash::smash::thumbs:
 
RTV is dangerous to use for installing a windshield. Use either butyl tape or urethane, also make sure that both bonding areas are clean and free of finger prints etc. Also don't try using bonding material on painted surfaces .... IMO windshield intallations should be left to professionals because it is classified as a structural part of the roof.

RTV won't structurally hold the glass in place, I found that out the hard way!
 
JeffP1167 said:
RTV is dangerous to use for installing a windshield. Use either butyl tape or urethane, also make sure that both bonding areas are clean and free of finger prints etc. Also don't try using bonding material on painted surfaces .... IMO windshield intallations should be left to professionals because it is classified as a structural part of the roof.

RTV won't structurally hold the glass in place, I found that out the hard way!
Click to expand...

why not painted surface?
 
JeffP1167 said:
RTV is dangerous to use for installing a windshield. Use either butyl tape or urethane, also make sure that both bonding areas are clean and free of finger prints etc. Also don't try using bonding material on painted surfaces .... IMO windshield intallations should be left to professionals because it is classified as a structural part of the roof.

RTV won't structurally hold the glass in place, I found that out the hard way!
Click to expand...

Correct. This is the OEM stuff:
http://usa.sika.com/content/usa/mai...s/01/01a001/01a001sa01.html?prodNotFound=true

I used it when I reglazed my t tops. The autoglass guy used the same stuff to replace my pitted windshield. I also agree with Jeff, have a pro do it. They blew mine out in 4 hours, and not 1 scratch on my NOS dash. Well worth it, and not expensive at all. $300 I believe.,(Including glass).
 
big2bird said:
I used it when I reglazed my t tops. The autoglass guy used the same stuff to replace my pitted windshield. I also agree with Jeff, have a pro do it. They blew mine out in 4 hours, and not 1 scratch on my NOS dash. Well worth it, and not expensive at all. $300 I believe.,(Including glass).
Click to expand...

That must be illegal alien rates. 4x$80 = 320 just for labor then add 150-200 for the glass.....

It took 4 hours because of that nasty crud "cement" they use to structurally glue it in. How much time do you think they are going to take to get rid of the rust, clean it up and POR15 or otherwise take stop rust measures? Then all the time fixing clips yada yada.

This is something you want to do yourself, take your time inspect, repair, rust stop and really get it right. This area is going to rust and collapse eventually. Pro shops need to rush it to make any money. These do not need to be cemented in to add structural rigidity like the new cars. If RTV is not holding it then you must not be using enough.

I just don't know how to do it yourself and get insurance to pay.
 
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turtlevette said:
big2bird said:
I used it when I reglazed my t tops. The autoglass guy used the same stuff to replace my pitted windshield. I also agree with Jeff, have a pro do it. They blew mine out in 4 hours, and not 1 scratch on my NOS dash. Well worth it, and not expensive at all. $300 I believe.,(Including glass).
Click to expand...

That must be illegal alien rates. 4x$80 = 320 just for labor then add 150-200 for the glass.....

It took 4 hours because of that nasty crud "cement" they use to structurally glue it in. How much time do you think they are going to take to get rid of the rust, clean it up and POR15 or otherwise take stop rust measures? Then all the time fixing clips yada yada.

This is something you want to do yourself, take your time inspect, repair, rust stop and really get it right. This area is going to rust and collapse eventually. Pro shops need to rush it to make any money. These do not need to be cemented in to add structural rigidity like the new cars. If RTV is not holding it then you must not be using enough.

I just don't know how to do it yourself and get insurance to pay.
Click to expand...



I agree, the "pro shop" that did mine cut corners, smeared that black crap everywhere, and left pockets for rust. Sorry, no quasi professionals for me.
 
big2bird said:
JeffP1167 said:
RTV is dangerous to use for installing a windshield. Use either butyl tape or urethane, also make sure that both bonding areas are clean and free of finger prints etc. Also don't try using bonding material on painted surfaces .... IMO windshield intallations should be left to professionals because it is classified as a structural part of the roof.

RTV won't structurally hold the glass in place, I found that out the hard way!
Click to expand...

Correct. This is the OEM stuff:
http://usa.sika.com/content/usa/mai...s/01/01a001/01a001sa01.html?prodNotFound=true

I used it when I reglazed my t tops. The autoglass guy used the same stuff to replace my pitted windshield. I also agree with Jeff, have a pro do it. They blew mine out in 4 hours, and not 1 scratch on my NOS dash. Well worth it, and not expensive at all. $300 I believe.,(Including glass).
Click to expand...

The w/s on my '72 vert vette was redone maybe 20 years ago when they painted it burgundy, the frame is burgundy same as car, even under the sticky stuff they used to stick it down with, I filled all the gaps all around the stainless, and bedded the stainless down into the RTV eliminating the metal clips, it's sealed tighter than whale pussy now...and that's waterproof..the w/s been in there great since I owned it.....I also followed the lead on my old Lemans/GTO convertible, that top NEVER leaked one drop over the top even at 80 into storms....this vert did, just like my '73 Grandville which also had stainless over the header, so I wrapped the header stainless with black vinyl, sealed under the stainless outside, and stuck down secure and disappears under the interior header trim....drove is through a Florida hurry cain....no leaks....:cool:

anyone know just WHY RTV will not hold glass into a frame?? what am I missing here??
 
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turtlevette said:
How much time do you think they are going to take to get rid of the rust, clean it up and POR15 or otherwise take stop rust measures? Then all the time fixing clips yada yada.

This is something you want to do yourself, take your time inspect, repair, rust stop and really get it right. This area is going to rust and collapse eventually. Pro shops need to rush it to make any money. These do not need to be cemented in to add structural rigidity like the new cars. If RTV is not holding it then you must not be using enough.
Click to expand...

I keep forgetting about the rust thing. None of my cars have any.:lol:
 
I pulled my old windshield out myself so I could clean and fix all my birdcage rust spots the right way. Called one of the big glass companies and told them I already had everything apart, all they had to do was lay in the new glass. Nothing else. He was there for maybe 1 hour tops. Payed around $220.

As far as using RTV... If you had the choice to make the windshield a structural part of the birdcage, why wouldnt you?
 
vette427sbc said:
As far as using RTV... If you had the choice to make the windshield a structural part of the birdcage, why wouldnt you?
Click to expand...

Because it's gonna crack?

Don't know if that was or is the intention with the thickness and design of the glass. The C3 glass has gotten thinner than the older OEM stuff?
 
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