using corvette suspension into a dedicated track car Help.

Karter15

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Jun 21, 2014
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Hi there I come from the land down under (australia) and am in the planning process of grafting a complete C6 alloy suspension set up into a dedicated track car,
the track and wheelbase will be very similar although power and weight will be rather different (around 1000hp & 800ft/lbs torque, 50/50 weight split and 1100kgs) have any of you guys that race your cars found any tweaks or weaknesses with the suspension that would require beefier aftermarket parts at all? I feel the stock equipment is of a pretty high standard for what we will be doing, but experience is hard to pick up without the time it takes to earn it.
the factory placement appears to be pretty good for the suspension motion we are after, but there is always room for refinements.
love the forum and I'm still finding my way through some of the great information on it.
keep up the great work and these are a very sexy car.
cheers Craig
 
Welcome to the motley crew......


And yes, that sounds like a GREAT project there......:drink:
 
Hi there I come from the land down under (australia) and am in the planning process of grafting a complete C6 alloy suspension set up into a dedicated track car

Welcome abard Mate! Sounds like a screamin' machine!

the track and wheelbase will be very similar although power and weight will be rather different (around 1000hp & 800ft/lbs torque, 50/50 weight split and 1100kgs) have any of you guys that race your cars found any tweaks or weaknesses with the suspension that would require beefier aftermarket parts at all? I feel the stock equipment is of a pretty high standard for what we will be doing, but experience is hard to pick up without the time it takes to earn it.
Welcome to the "madness" of suspension design and engineering! There are a few things you'll find along the way, for example:
1. GM didn't make the ball joints "replaceable." :eek: But, you can sort that out. A reamer and some new joints - or mill and add inserts that are reamed to fit replaceable ball joints.
2. Ditto for the IRS Toe control Arms
3. VanSteel has the "bead" on Race Ready/proven bearings -- not cheap but should give a season or 2 use - better than OEM - good to 2gs as I recall.:thumbs:
4. Half shafts are CV Joint units - and longer than stock C3 - so instant wider Track -- umm good..:)
5. Options for Coil-overs as well as mono spring are both do-able - as you are starting from "scratch" (I assume).​

the factory placement appears to be pretty good for the suspension motion we are after, but there is always room for refinements.

True - True. A number of suspension programs out there to help along the way. Check out this link for a list of those - and an IRS-only Forum if interested:


love the forum and I'm still finding my way through some of the great information on it.
keep up the great work and these are a very sexy car.
cheers Craig

You'll find the members here are happy to help - and we all LOVE picture too!

Cheers - Jim
 
What car are you installing it in and how much of the donor car do you plan to use?
 
yeeikes you guys will probably ban me...but the shell it will be going into is an Mazda RX8, :clobbered: don't fret..it is only the shell!!!hahaha but largely will be fibreglass, it will be running a wide track and on 18" 310 front and 330 rear slicks with a fair bit of ground effects to help hold it down.
once we get it to more of a shape I will post a pic.
but it looks like the ZR1 a arms will be utilised and dropped spindles, and alsothe good wheel bearings too, you guys all seem to agree on that and I have only heard good things so far, so I think we have made a wise choice with the corvette bits.
thanks for your feedback guys and thanks again .
cheers Craig
 
yeeikes you guys will probably ban me...but the shell it will be going into is an Mazda RX8, :clobbered: don't fret..it is only the shell!!!hahaha but largely will be fibreglass, it will be running a wide track and on 18" 310 front and 330 rear slicks with a fair bit of ground effects to help hold it down.
once we get it to more of a shape I will post a pic.
but it looks like the ZR1 a arms will be utilised and dropped spindles, and alsothe good wheel bearings too, you guys all seem to agree on that and I have only heard good things so far, so I think we have made a wise choice with the corvette bits.
thanks for your feedback guys and thanks again .
cheers Craig

If you use the c6 trans, guys put an external brace on the to prevent case breakage.
 
Just came across a rear subframe idea if you are searching for any inspiration:
12695437ab4559d4c.jpg

It was used to fit a C5/6 IRS to a Manta Kit Car. Has some interesting ideas. Eliminates the need for the C5/6 Aluminum Cradle - and opens up different rear differential options as well. (Although I don't see the toe-control mounts installed.)

In fact, could easily adapt to a C3 - ahh well, I'm already well down that track.

Cheers - Jim
 
Just came across a rear subframe idea if you are searching for any inspiration:
12695437ab4559d4c.jpg

It was used to fit a C5/6 IRS to a Manta Kit Car. Has some interesting ideas. Eliminates the need for the C5/6 Aluminum Cradle - and opens up different rear differential options as well. (Although I don't see the toe-control mounts installed.)

In fact, could easily adapt to a C3 - ahh well, I'm already well down that track.

Cheers - Jim

I'm curious if that's them in the picture between and slightly above the LCA mounts (just speculating as I'm not familiar with that frame).

I'm assuming that the X brace is removable (I'm trying to understand the workings of the pieces between the extra weld joints at the ends of the X.)
 
:banghead: DOOH! :banghead:

Good eye - yep that might be the Toe - Control mounting tab.
I like the idea of the "X" being removable - and looks like it might be - but see no fastener to secure. In fact appear to be welded in place.

Cheers - Jim
 
"I'm assuming that the X brace is removable (I'm trying to understand the workings of the pieces between the extra weld joints at the ends of the X."

I think those cross drilled balls are acting like nut. Turn one way to extend a threaded rod, turn opposite to retract.
 
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