Ujoint removal problem

[denpo]

Hi everyone.
I tried to press out my driveshaft U-joint tonight, and I just couldn't.:sos:
Before the bearing cap could make it out of the driveshaft ear the body of the U-joint is hitting the inside of the driveshaft.



On the picture you see I tried both way and that pretty much how far I can make it (I backed them a little to prevent the needles from collapsing.
The U-joint cap says Spicer P051, dunno if it help.
One thing : they are not symmetrical, they have a bulging side, which happens to be on the driveshaft side. Could it be that during a previous repair the U-joint have been installed the wrong way? (please tell me no)
Anyhow, if you got idea on how I could deal with this, I'm listening, because I don't think welding a driveshaft with the U-joints on is a good idea.

 

[mrvette]

I dunno man, All I have ever done is put the open X cross piece on top of a open bench vice, and take one of my impact sockets and hammer hell out of the end cap section letting the cap go into the socket, using a 3 lbs hand hammer.....2-3 good licks and it's outta there....

for that matter lay a couple solid pieces of steel on the concrete to hold the thing up so you can hammer it there, don't have to worry over beating your bench to hell....maybe a couple 4x4's.....

:flash:

 

[BBShark]

If the ujoint was installed, it can be removed.

 

[denpo]

I dunno man, All I have ever done is put the open X cross piece on top of a open bench vice, and take one of my impact sockets and hammer hell out of the end cap section letting the cap go into the socket, using a 3 lbs hand hammer.....2-3 good licks and it's outta there....

for that matter lay a couple solid pieces of steel on the concrete to hold the thing up so you can hammer it there, don't have to worry over beating your bench to hell....maybe a couple 4x4's.....

:flash:

Gene, I bought a small 6ton bench press recently and used it with a large an a small socket.Basically I follow instruction to the letter.

If the ujoint was installed, it can be removed.

Yes and no, you put the U-joint and then press in the two caps, at that point you don't really need to have the u-joint being able to push out the caps.
So yes it probably can be removed, but probably not with the usual method and without damaging anything.
I don't think trying to pull the bearing cap with wisegrip would be good for the caps, but so far I don't see I could do otherwise.
They are still 1/8" away from breaking free.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

angle grinder -> cut the cross

 

[MYBAD79]

I don't think trying to pull the bearing cap with wisegrip would be good for the caps, but so far I don't see I could do otherwise.
They are still 1/8" away from breaking free.

I would not re-use it anyways. Solid U-joints are less than $20, that grease nipple weakens the whole thing and Gary posted a picture of a broken joint that snapped right at this hole.... not worth the risk....

Grab the cap with vise grips and maybe take a small propane torch to the yoke. Or simply cut the cross as Marck says....

 

[denpo]

I don't think trying to pull the bearing cap with wisegrip would be good for the caps, but so far I don't see I could do otherwise.
They are still 1/8" away from breaking free.

I would not re-use it anyways. Solid U-joints are less than $20, that grease nipple weakens the whole thing and Gary posted a picture of a broken joint that snapped right at this hole.... not worth the risk....

Grab the cap with vise grips and maybe take a small propane torch to the yoke. Or simply cut the cross as Marck says....

You got a very good point there Karsten, let's dump them.
I will try the wisegrip method first, I don't want to coast my grinder with grease.
Any recommandation for a replacement U-joint, brand? model? quality?
I will try to get them at the driveshaft shop (they probably won't come cheap), I'm kind of tired waiting for weeks for parts to come.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

How are you "coating your grinder with grease' ?? cut the cross, there's no grease on it. the thing will fall apart and the cups can be easily removed. It takes seconds. I always do it like that.

 

[denpo]

How are you "coating your grinder with grease' ?? cut the cross, there's no grease on it. the thing will fall apart and the cups can be easily removed. It takes seconds. I always do it like that.

No offense, those U-joint have zerg and inner channel for the grease. So at some point I think would have found myself grinding into grease.
Anyway, the case is close for the removal. Since Karsten pointed those U-joint should be changed I tried with a wisegrip without remorse and found out they was closer from the way out than I thought.
I rocked them a little and they came free.
Sorry for bothering you guys, those were my very first U-joints and I didn't know how "rough" I could be with them. newbie syndrome.

I've checked the length of the TH350 and the T5 and found a 3" difference, confirmed by various online reference. I'll bring my shaft at the shop tomorrow for reduction/balancing

 

[Fuelie74]

Hi everyone.
I tried to press out my driveshaft U-joint tonight, and I just couldn't.:sos:
Before the bearing cap could make it out of the driveshaft ear the body of the U-joint is hitting the inside of the driveshaft.



On the picture you see I tried both way and that pretty much how far I can make it (I backed them a little to prevent the needles from collapsing.

Clamp the part of a cap that is sticking out of the shaft in a vice and smack the shaft with a rubber mallet, flip over and repeat.

 

[denpo]

Hi everyone.
I tried to press out my driveshaft U-joint tonight, and I just couldn't.:sos:
Before the bearing cap could make it out of the driveshaft ear the body of the U-joint is hitting the inside of the driveshaft.



On the picture you see I tried both way and that pretty much how far I can make it (I backed them a little to prevent the needles from collapsing.

Clamp the part of a cap that is sticking out of the shaft in a vice and smack the shaft with a rubber mallet, flip over and repeat.

Just what I did!
Even late a good advice is a good advice.
Thanks :beer:

 

[68/70Vette]

Push the U Joint trunnion as far as you can out, say, the right side. A good bit of the cap will be exposed. Take a Dremel grinder and reduce the diameter of the exposed cap. Also, on the other end of the trunnion, the left inward side of the cap will be exposed. Use the Dremel to slightly reduce it's diameter. Now take your U joint tool and push the trunnion as far as you can to the other side. Now take the Dremel and reduce the diameter of the exposed cap of the left side. Simarily the inward side of the right hand side will be exposed. Grind it down with the Dremil. Now with each cap having been ground down on it's top and bottom surface, you can pull the cap out. It's tedious. Takes a long time.

 

[GTR1999]

I burn out the crosses on old joints.

If I have to take apart a new joint I'll press it out until the cross hits the yoke, then hold the exposed cap in smooth jaw vise and walk it off, then carefully tap the cross into the other cap to keep the pins in place then tap it in the other direction, and remove the cap & cross.

1/2 shaft joints (1350) are harder to get out then the DS joints (1310 & 1330)

 

[denpo]

First thanks for all those that chimed in for advices.
Looks like I haven't made myself clear enough.
I actually managed to get the U-joint out by clamping the protruding end of the gearing caps and just rocking them a little.

I'm now fighting with driveshaft shops over prices.
Went to place that asked me to leave the shaft overnight for a quote.
Dunno if it was the cueless frenchy taxe or the Corvette taxe but they mailed me today : 300$ for new Ujoint + shortening + balancing. Told them to get lost.
In the meanwhile found a shop outside Montreal that would do the shortening and the balancing for 75-100$.