Solid swaybar and rear spring Links

84rzv500r

84rzv500r

Knows just enough to be dangerous!
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
390
Location
Big Pine Key, FL
Just ordered all the bits to build solid links for my front sway bar and rear spring...

Pitstop USA wasn't the cheapest but they had all the components I needed in stock...

This is a custom deal because of the new Tubular lower control arms I am installing and that fact that I have modified vansteel trailing arms

Gulstrand offers a front kit and duntov offers a rear kit but both for stupid money like $1100 for both and I would have to modify them anyway all the components for my application were less then $350 delivered

I hope Aurora Heim joints are OK

Order Details:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Allstar Performance 1/2" LH Steel Jam Nut (ALL18259)

Unit Price: $0.94
Total Price: $1.88
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Allstar Performance 1/2" RH Steel Jam Nut (ALL18258)

Unit Price: $0.87
Total Price: $1.74
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Aurora MM Series Precision Steel Rod End - 1/2" Male RH x 1/2"
Hole (AURMM-8)

Unit Price: $15.83
Total Price: $31.66
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Aurora MB Series Precision Steel Rod End - 1/2" Male LH x 1/2"
Hole (AURMB-8)

Unit Price: $15.83
Total Price: $31.66
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Aurora VCM Series Economy Self-Lubricating Steel Rod End - 1/2"
Male RH x 1/2" Hole (AURVCM-8)

Unit Price: $12.67
Total Price: $25.34
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Aurora VCW Series Economy Self-Lubricating Steel Rod End - 1/2"
Female RH x 1/2" Hole (AURVCW-8)

Unit Price: $12.57
Total Price: $25.14
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Seals-It 5/8" Rod End Seals - (6 Pack) (SICWS6250-6PK)

Unit Price: $17.99
Total Price: $35.98
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 3
Item: Seals-It 1/2" Rod End Seals - (6 Pk) (SICWS5001-6PK)

Unit Price: $13.83
Total Price: $41.49
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 1
Item: Allstar Performance 1" x .065" Round Chrome Moly Tubing - 4 Ft.
(ALL22044-4)

Unit Price: $22.94
Total Price: $22.94
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Allstar Performance Tube End - 1/2"-20 - RH - Fits 1" x .065"
Tubing (ALL22526)

Unit Price: $9.94
Total Price: $19.88
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 2
Item: Allstar Performance Tube End - 1/2"-20 - LH - Fits 1" x .065"
Tubing (ALL22527)

Unit Price: $9.94
Total Price: $19.88
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 1
Item: Allstar Performance Coil-Over Bracket w/ Grade 5 Bolt - Lock Nut
& Spacer - Right Hand - Notched Style (ALL60101)

Unit Price: $6.94
Total Price: $6.94
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 1
Item: Allstar Performance Coil-Over Bracket w/ Grade 5 Bolt - Lock Nut
& Spacer - Left Hand - Notched Style (ALL60100)

Unit Price: $6.94
Total Price: $6.94
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 6
Item: Allstar Performance Coil-Over Bracket w/ Grade 5 Bolt - Lock Nut
& Spacer - Flat Mount Style (ALL60106)

Unit Price: $6.87
Total Price: $41.22
------------------------------------------------------------------------
subtotal: $312.69
shipping: $15.22
handling: $1.25
------------------------------------------------------------------------
total: $329.16
 
round 2... first designs didn't work too well... will post pics soon

I made some neat brackets for the spring mounts, bushed the spring holes to 0.500...

the problem comes in with the overall length of the link and the vansteel trailing arms.

I will bite the bullet and mod the trailing arms to accommodate.. i was trying to do it without a quick path back to the old setup... Oh well... Plasma cutter time
16524c4d1d74a91.jpg
16524c4d1db12e4.jpg
16524c4d1de1056.jpg
16524c4d1e244c9.jpg
 
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Update and adjusted the rear track....

SO I am just about ready to replace the rear spring bolts with rod ends... and I had to increase the rear track another 1/2" per side to clear the frame at full compression on the wheel travel... this was a Piece-o-cake with my setup... swapped shims on the trailing arm pivots and then cranked the strut rods out spec on the 6 link...

updated my
picasa page with pics...
 
84rzv500r said:
round 2... first designs didn't work too well... will post pics soon

I made some neat brackets for the spring mounts, bushed the spring holes to 0.500...

the problem comes in with the overall length of the link and the vansteel trailing arms.

I will bite the bullet and mod the trailing arms to accommodate.. i was trying to do it without a quick path back to the old setup... Oh well... Plasma cutter time
16524c4d1d74a91.jpg
16524c4d1db12e4.jpg
16524c4d1de1056.jpg
16524c4d1e244c9.jpg
Click to expand...

I hate to show my ignorance, but what is the advantage to solid links on the springs?
 
Just curious - is there any particular reason at this point you haven't opted for a dual mount composite leaf spring? Performance enhancement and get those links right to match on that item.

Cheers - Jim
 
I have heavily modified my van steel arms... I actually picked them up at the shop before they were powder coated

I will box in the trailing arm and build a floating lateral mount...

The links in the thread were the mock up... Picasa has the shortened link pics and they will be centered in the arm pocket...

will also use these as a take of point for the rear sway bar attach...

fiberglass is for bodies not springs LOL

solid links are supposed to keep the suspension from floating...:beer:
 
For my 68 with a ZZ4 hot cam engine, I don't have rear anti-sway bars (395 hp/2850 lbs)). For my 70, if it ever hits the road with an all aluminum BB, I'll be at about 600 hp and it won't have rear anti-sway bars. As a stock BB car, it did come from the factory with anti-sway bars. My understanding is that C3's, because of the nose mounted engine. particularly the all cast iron BB's , tend to have understeer. The anti-sway bars counteract this. Rear anti-sway bars tilt steering towards the oversteer direction..so perfectly balanced the rear under sway bars dialing in a little oversteer and the front dialing in a little understeer can result in a neutral car.....IF ENGINE TORQUE is not a very predominant factor in performance.

If you're driving a high power car on street and highway, I think you want a built in understeer condition....i.e. no rear anti sway bars. This is to avoid off throttle oversteer with a high performance engine. Driving a high performance car under full acceleration, causes the car to turn a little to the right...the driver compensates with a little left turn to keep on a straight line..then the transmission shifts at a high speed..50 mph/80 mph..whatever...and the rear wheels break loose into a spin. The rear end looses traction, and engine torque causes the car to dramatically spin clockwise, the driver then makes a dramatic left hand turn to negate the clockwise motion and spontaneously takes his foot off the gas pedal. The driver has now entered the coffin corner of the performance envelope. With no more throttle...the engine hp goes to zero and our driver is now at speed with the car sideways, the steering completely to the opposite direction, and with no more engine power,all four wheels are gripping......dramatic spin.

If you're going to build a high performance car, you're going to get a lot of off throttle over steer.....don't make it worse with a rear anti-sway bar. IMO

I had my 68 aligned at Guildstrand's Motorsport in Burbank, Ca. His primary expertise is Corvette suspensions (and sophisticated custom engineering. I told him that for my street and freeway driving, I wanted understeer to counteract any off throttle oversteer. He recommended changes($$$) to my steering box, front springs, front anti-sway bar, and front control spring tower spacer bar. He made no recommendations about the rear with a VBP composite spring, offset trailing arms, and no anti-sway bar. Opps one exception..he wasn't a fan of the VBP composite spring..he would have kept the stock spring.
 
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