SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
console setting in place
the engine plate should really throw the not-Corvette people off - it's from a 454 Corvette
the engine plate should really throw the not-Corvette people off - it's from a 454 Corvette
SBG's C3
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
it was one of those "a billion little things, but nothing to show for it".... if you don't count the hole in my yard from playing with my skidsteer
anyway, looks like going backwards, but it's actually forwards
the wire is a more organized mess
and I got the other differential on the stand and verified what I need to do to it to make it operational
anyway, looks like going backwards, but it's actually forwards
the wire is a more organized mess
and I got the other differential on the stand and verified what I need to do to it to make it operational
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
worked on the Corvette tonight
Bubba was busy on my car. Okay, the Corvette is a 75 with a whole bunch of 77 bits on it - and for the most part, it looked relatively solid.... but lurking underneath were these wires
I was working on the motor and caught the glimpse of a spark near the fuse box.... further investigation noted these wires wrapped together (they're wires for the alarm) that were twisted together. Then I spotted a black wire, no worries I think, but closer inspection noted a fuse on it then an orange wire going into a large block of red wires.....
my car is now 3 oz lighter, and 3 bubbaectomies better.
Also
I love the FAST system, however, I don't love the fuel lines go straight out of the throttle body - fixed that tonight as well
and in my fixes I also pulled the plugs (dang it's running rich), and reset the gap.... I really need to pay closer attention to what I'm doing - two plugs were gapped at .060, when those were closed back up the miss went away....
Bubba was busy on my car. Okay, the Corvette is a 75 with a whole bunch of 77 bits on it - and for the most part, it looked relatively solid.... but lurking underneath were these wires
I was working on the motor and caught the glimpse of a spark near the fuse box.... further investigation noted these wires wrapped together (they're wires for the alarm) that were twisted together. Then I spotted a black wire, no worries I think, but closer inspection noted a fuse on it then an orange wire going into a large block of red wires.....
my car is now 3 oz lighter, and 3 bubbaectomies better.
Also
I love the FAST system, however, I don't love the fuel lines go straight out of the throttle body - fixed that tonight as well
and in my fixes I also pulled the plugs (dang it's running rich), and reset the gap.... I really need to pay closer attention to what I'm doing - two plugs were gapped at .060, when those were closed back up the miss went away....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
C3 Corvettes have a suspension that dates back to the mid-60s.... at the time, they were ground breaking, now, they're just breaking.
In the Corvette world, there are two major companies with different rear suspensions - Greenwood, and Gulstrand (latter not a company, but a design). They both look roughly the same - but they both were designed for racing in specific classes. They were/are quite successful - however, after a bunch of study and a lot of review, I'm going to try something a bit different.
This isn't a drag race 'vette, nor is it an SCCA car - rather it's a car that's transportation and the occasional autocross.
So here's the suspension as it sits
composite spring - 420#, adjustable lower control arm
The reason for the update now is this car is flat out scary because (probably the left side) clip is missing in the rear diff... the problem is the driveshaft is the upper control arm. For Mr. Polyester - that's fine, but having an upper control arm that moves 1/4" to adjust for suspension travel is not something that is pleasant to drive in its perfect condition....
So the update is to put an upper control arm in place. the question is.... how much camber gain should I have on the rear wheel? (that's set by the difference in length between the upper and lower control arm).
I'm rebuilding the trailing arms - while I'm at it - but the bushings look to be 40 years old and I have johnny joints to replace them
In the Corvette world, there are two major companies with different rear suspensions - Greenwood, and Gulstrand (latter not a company, but a design). They both look roughly the same - but they both were designed for racing in specific classes. They were/are quite successful - however, after a bunch of study and a lot of review, I'm going to try something a bit different.
This isn't a drag race 'vette, nor is it an SCCA car - rather it's a car that's transportation and the occasional autocross.
So here's the suspension as it sits
composite spring - 420#, adjustable lower control arm
The reason for the update now is this car is flat out scary because (probably the left side) clip is missing in the rear diff... the problem is the driveshaft is the upper control arm. For Mr. Polyester - that's fine, but having an upper control arm that moves 1/4" to adjust for suspension travel is not something that is pleasant to drive in its perfect condition....
So the update is to put an upper control arm in place. the question is.... how much camber gain should I have on the rear wheel? (that's set by the difference in length between the upper and lower control arm).
I'm rebuilding the trailing arms - while I'm at it - but the bushings look to be 40 years old and I have johnny joints to replace them
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
pictures of the suspension now
the soon to be installed trailing arm side bracket
or maybe this way
as you can see, they're pretty stout
so here's my other diff, you can see how much the 'arm' moves with these pictures (and the clip that holds it all together)
I'll repeat this thread on my plastic thread - the point of this thread is to get input into the idea of simply removing the clip and installing an upper control rod
the soon to be installed trailing arm side bracket
or maybe this way
as you can see, they're pretty stout
so here's my other diff, you can see how much the 'arm' moves with these pictures (and the clip that holds it all together)
I'll repeat this thread on my plastic thread - the point of this thread is to get input into the idea of simply removing the clip and installing an upper control rod
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Yeh, 18 years ago, I went to Yogi Bear, a popular vette parts supplier at the time, dunno if still around though, and he exchanged my tired old output yokes for some he remade with hardened ends on them been in the car since with damn nearly zero in/out play....:smash:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
actually, that rear is a replacement for the one that's still in the car - but it has the same problem as the one in the car (just a better gear ratio)
secondary question - why only the left side?
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I enrichened Mid-America this morning with a soup-to-nuts rebuild kid - everything side yokes to trailing arm bearings...
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
What was the price on the yokes?? curious....as mine were about 130 each, back when....as I recall.....I got a set of clutches years ago, ran about 80 bux....if prices are nearly doubles, hopefully you have USA parts, if not....hummmm.....:crylol:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I bought this list from mid-america
Precision Rear Wheel Spindles
Inner and Outer Rear Wheel Bearing Kits
Inner and Outer Rear Wheel Bearing Seal Kits
Rear Wheel Bearing Shim and Spacer Kit
Rear Spindle Flanges
Rear Spring Mounting Kit
Drive Shaft Front and Rear U-joint Kit
TA shim kit
bearing install tool
$680 delivered
So I don't really know what each, individual part cost - I really liked that they allowed me to mix and match parts....
Here's pictures of what I plan on doing
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
OH, so I maybe missed a comment, you not replacing the yokes because you are doing the upper strut gig.....
I dunno what is matter with me, in that I can unnersand most mechanical stuffs pretty good, but when it comes to suspension geometry my brain goes :hissyfit::hissyfit: and all I can do is scratch my ass in wonderment....
other than the obvious changes everyone does, that is why I never got into any C4 style mods and other stuffs.....
I dunno what is matter with me, in that I can unnersand most mechanical stuffs pretty good, but when it comes to suspension geometry my brain goes :hissyfit::hissyfit: and all I can do is scratch my ass in wonderment....
other than the obvious changes everyone does, that is why I never got into any C4 style mods and other stuffs.....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I am replacing the yokes - however, they will not be a load-bearing structure after this is done
I'm not doing a C4 style conversion because I don't want the 4-link style arm; I think it's unnecessary for my purposes
I'm not doing a C4 style conversion because I don't want the 4-link style arm; I think it's unnecessary for my purposes
GTR1999
Gearhead
To avoid future problem you might want to look over the parts you get in.
Make sure you use USA Timken bearings, some places are using cheaper parts in their kits now.
The spindles should be Spencer Forge pieces otherwise you may have imports.
Use CR seals over the imported ones as well.
U-joints should be Spicer solids.
Hopefull that is what you get. Good luck.
Make sure you use USA Timken bearings, some places are using cheaper parts in their kits now.
The spindles should be Spencer Forge pieces otherwise you may have imports.
Use CR seals over the imported ones as well.
U-joints should be Spicer solids.
Hopefull that is what you get. Good luck.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
it is what I specified, but the person on the other end could only put that on the order - she didn't know - crossing fingers :confused2:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
good news/bad news
Good news is the existing rear differential side yokes are better than the replacement... bad news is it's obviously the TA bushings - a PITA to get out
2.73 (new) differential
3.08 (old) differential
starting removing the trailing arms... ug
Good news is the existing rear differential side yokes are better than the replacement... bad news is it's obviously the TA bushings - a PITA to get out
2.73 (new) differential
3.08 (old) differential
starting removing the trailing arms... ug
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I hesitate to post this as it's a pretty familiar sight to you
an enjoyable evening was spent fighting one bolt - and it's only half way off
shims hold it in place
First step is to remove the shims and cut the bolt
half the shims are gone
and that's all for tonight
an enjoyable evening was spent fighting one bolt - and it's only half way off
shims hold it in place
First step is to remove the shims and cut the bolt
half the shims are gone
and that's all for tonight