Replacing dash bulbs and saving $200

SuperBuickGuy

SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
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Location
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anyone who owns a GM car with a center stack like the H3 should really pay attention to this:

The far right knob's light is dead.
P6100015_zpsd33d7cdf.jpg

the GM repair
getimage.php


$192.79 plus shipping and handling.... for a stinking blown out light bulb...

OR - spend 20 minutes and $2.00

the HVAC control literally pops off the dash (pry CAREFULLY - starting in a corner, paying attention to the middle one)
P6100016_zps054362d9.jpg

it's off
P6100017_zps673062f2.jpg

gently pry the back cover off - it's held by clips that aren't, technically, suppose to be removeable. Make sure the middle dial (fan control) that bit is vertical - and the rear part is vertical to it
P6100017_zps673062f2.jpg

The bulbs - are 12v 65 mA, I replaced it with a 12v 50 mA
here are the bulb holders
P6100011_zpsf98afd8c.jpg
new bulb is the white-wrapped one
P6100012_zps677050d5.jpg
desolder and remove the old bulb
drill the hole to put the new bulb i
solder back together
ugly but functional
P6100014_zpsd93954b9.jpg

back to this picture - left corner, the bulb simply twists in place
P6100018_zpse1201cb0.jpg

and other than a moment where I wondered why all the lights were flashing at me - it works excellent
P6100019_zps45f1ffff.jpg

I will be (haha, like not unless it blows) all those bulbs with LED lights - there's a company that makes 12v 75mA bulbs - so presuming I have to take this apart again - I'll replace those bulbs with LEDs

Questions?
 
LED link

Here's the link to the lights
Subminiature | Specialty & Automotive | Universal LED Bulb Finder | Super Bright LEDs

There are 3 different sizes of this type of LED. You want the NEO4 which is the 4mm one. They're 12v so you won't need to worry about soldering any resistors. If the light doesn't work the first time, polarity is important with LEDs - so you might need to rotate them to change polarity if they don't intially light up.

Again, I'll hit all of this when I do mine. In case someone needs to do it sooner than I, there's the fine print :)
 
Good info-- I've got about 5 bulbs out in the radio on my '01 GMC. I've already replaced the HVAC and the headlight switch. I'm going to have to pull the dash anyway- the sensor for the DRL and headlights is dead.
 
SBG, WTF?? I looking at a simple pimple HVAC control....i'ts a damn blow switch, temp control and simple vacuum switch to decide where to blow


and they got a 99 pin ~2" square CHIP on a circuit board for that shit???

things get stupid with any of MY gear, out come the dykes and I going to rewire that shit in a nanosecond.....ASSuming I can find a diagram, because now a daze cars have followed the TV industry, pitchittronics....buy a NEW one.....

:hunter::club: I"ll be GOD DAMNED if I will, I win, FU.gov.....

:amazed::cussing:
 
my pry tool is metal, but it's specifically for doing this... you won't get a plastic tool between the face plate and the dash. But as I said, and I'll say it again, be careful; go slow - I was told start at the top by pulling on the vents - that didn't work for me, but I could push on the bottom corner from the back. That gave me enough room to worry the tool in behind the panel and CAREFULLY pry. Honestly, the prying is 10% of the effort, 90% of the effort is prying with your fingers.
 
I got a whole set of these plastic pry tools, I think it was about $10 at Harbor Freight, works great :thumbs:
 
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