Heater control valve ???'s

[DeeVeeEight]

If I install a second vacuum controlled heater control valve on the return heater hose will I have enough vacuum to control them both from the same switch and vacuum line? I am thinking of adding a vacuum tee fitting and operating the two valves simultaneously to try and control cabin heat.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

They don't require a lot of vacuum to operate, it would work. Maybe for a cleaner look there is a dual in/out valve available that controls in and out simultaneously. Not sure if that exists but if it does, it would be a lot cleaner.

 

[DeeVeeEight]

I think it would be very straightforward to simply cut the return line, install another shut off valve and tee into the existing vacuum line, not very expensive either.

Well, with your words of encouragement I will give it a shot!

Thanks for your reply.

 

[SmokinBBC]

Where are you getting your heater control valve?

 

[big2bird]

Where are you getting your heater control valve?

I buy them at Rock Auto. Slightly different than stock, but is Genuine Delco.

 

[mrvette]

It is my MAMMORY that a dual control valve with one vac line is in a ~90's FORD truck....I been eyeing this trick myself....I know a Early C4 used a double action valve, and it was prone to rusting out though...the one I thinking of was some sort of black plastic, like the single action one I have in there now...but I know the flapper seals good, so have not bothered....maybe I should...

I like TT's trick of that sticky aluminum flashing for the a/c box, good tinking...

:smash:

 

[red74]

You are complicating things. The 5/8" hose flows coolant into the heater core. Shut flow of that hose and no heat will enter the core. Here is the $12.00 Home Depot Plumbing and Gardening Center solution. Garden hose is 5/8".

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Yes, but with an additional valve you can simply shut it off from inside the car without having to open the hood. Another option would be to use a fuel shut off valve off a mechanical injector, they have a lever that can be hooked to a morse cable. Drill a small hole in the firewall and route it inside the car and you can pull the morse cable just like a mech. choke to open/close the valve.

 

[BBShark]

It is my MAMMORY that a dual control valve with one vac line is in a ~90's FORD truck....I been eyeing this trick myself....I know a Early C4 used a double action valve, and it was prone to rusting out though...the one I thinking of was some sort of black plastic, like the single action one I have in there now...but I know the flapper seals good, so have not bothered....maybe I should...

I like TT's trick of that sticky aluminum flashing for the a/c box, good tinking...

:smash:

This is a Ford valve that has 4 ports (although you can only see 3). When the heater core is shutoff, water is bypassed to the return. Rock Auto pn MotorCraft YG350

 

[big2bird]

It is my MAMMORY that a dual control valve with one vac line is in a ~90's FORD truck....I been eyeing this trick myself....I know a Early C4 used a double action valve, and it was prone to rusting out though...the one I thinking of was some sort of black plastic, like the single action one I have in there now...but I know the flapper seals good, so have not bothered....maybe I should...

I like TT's trick of that sticky aluminum flashing for the a/c box, good tinking...

:smash:

This is a Ford valve that has 4 ports (although you can only see 3). When the heater core is shutoff, water is bypassed to the return. Rock Auto pn MotorCraft YG350

Good catch Larry. I might try that.
I do already have a ball valve, and just open/close it twice a year. I really need to finish my Dynamat job too. That should help loads.

 

[big2bird]

It is my MAMMORY that a dual control valve with one vac line is in a ~90's FORD truck....I been eyeing this trick myself....I know a Early C4 used a double action valve, and it was prone to rusting out though...the one I thinking of was some sort of black plastic, like the single action one I have in there now...but I know the flapper seals good, so have not bothered....maybe I should...

I like TT's trick of that sticky aluminum flashing for the a/c box, good tinking...

:smash:

This is a Ford valve that has 4 ports (although you can only see 3). When the heater core is shutoff, water is bypassed to the return. Rock Auto pn MotorCraft YG350

Are the ports the right size? 5/8" pressure/ 3/4" return?

 

[DeeVeeEight]

It is my MAMMORY that a dual control valve with one vac line is in a ~90's FORD truck....I been eyeing this trick myself....I know a Early C4 used a double action valve, and it was prone to rusting out though...the one I thinking of was some sort of black plastic, like the single action one I have in there now...but I know the flapper seals good, so have not bothered....maybe I should...

I like TT's trick of that sticky aluminum flashing for the a/c box, good tinking...

:smash:

This is a Ford valve that has 4 ports (although you can only see 3). When the heater core is shutoff, water is bypassed to the return. Rock Auto pn MotorCraft YG350

AWESOME!!! That is why I like this forum so much, good information, right down to the part numbers. :thumbs:

Thank You!

 

[BBShark]

Are the ports the right size? 5/8" pressure/ 3/4" return?

Good question, it looks like the barbed fittings are all the same size in the picture and the Rock Auto website lists 5/8 ID hose only. Maybe you could put a couple of layers of heat shrink on the barb or an inline reducer?

 

[RMS73]

Excess cabin heat from the ducts may not be cause by the water water going to the heater coil. I found a leak of engine compratment hot air into the side plenum and then into the blower fan inlet and then into the duct was my source of hot air. I pushed some foam weatherstripping into the sealant crack between the firewall and the fender and the hot air from the HVAC ducts stopped. I had tried one valve in the water lines then two valves then I disconnected the water lines form the heater core and still had the hot air form the ducts.

Roger

 

[DeeVeeEight]

:hi: Hats off to Gene and Larry for this VetteMod!

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

Some of the hose inlet sizes are not an exact match, a barb was used to make up the difference.

There is only one problem with this.

It is the second FORD part to be installed on my 'VETTE. :stirpot:

P.S. - sorry for the funky pics with the chop on the bottom. Something happened when I transferred them from my PC to Photobucket.

 

[DeeVeeEight]

Excess cabin heat from the ducts may not be cause by the water water going to the heater coil. I found a leak of engine compratment hot air into the side plenum and then into the blower fan inlet and then into the duct was my source of hot air. I pushed some foam weatherstripping into the sealant crack between the firewall and the fender and the hot air from the HVAC ducts stopped. I had tried one valve in the water lines then two valves then I disconnected the water lines form the heater core and still had the hot air form the ducts.

Roger

I'll look into this next if the valve does not cure my ills.

 

[mrvette]

Excess cabin heat from the ducts may not be cause by the water water going to the heater coil. I found a leak of engine compratment hot air into the side plenum and then into the blower fan inlet and then into the duct was my source of hot air. I pushed some foam weatherstripping into the sealant crack between the firewall and the fender and the hot air from the HVAC ducts stopped. I had tried one valve in the water lines then two valves then I disconnected the water lines form the heater core and still had the hot air form the ducts.

Roger

I'll look into this next if the valve does not cure my ills.

Lemme know what you experience with that valve change out....I have just a one legged cut off, leaving the other hose 'flowing' .....but shouldn't be...

I going to change the location and maybe put in a double cut off valve down way lo, next to the heater core....I know the flapper works, but too many comments over the years make me wonder....

 

[DeeVeeEight]

The valve is in, I have driven the car and it is still hot as.....well, let's just say it's still hot. I am going to try Roger's cure next, it's another straightforward low buck solution.

 

[BBShark]

There is a valve that controls vacuum to the valve. It is attached to a cable that goes to your "Cold------Hot" control. When the lever is all the way to the cold position it should shut off the valve. Start the car and unplug the vac line to the valve. Move the lever from "Cold" to "Hot" and see if it changes.

Here is the shutoff on an C3 with A/C:

 

[big2bird]

While your at it. Check the heater door cable adjustment. IT's inline with the cable. See that the full cold position has the heater doo shut. Check the MAX Air door under the right kick panel. See that it opens and closes fully. Check the vent door in the pass side cowl behind the debri screen. See that it moves open and closed. Pull the fan out and check for leaves. Change the fan ground wire to a #10 gauge black wire. Consider changing the fan to a C-4 unit with a spacer. Have the A/C charge checked. Check the condenser for debri.
That should keep you busy awhile.