enkeivette
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Is there any such thing as a power sander with a flexible face? Something that would form to the curves of the C3 to take the primer off of the body?
Flexible power sander?
- Thread starter enkeivette
- Start date
saudivette
Clueless In Sandland
Yes, it's called your hand :thumbs:
enkeivette
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Why would you even respond with something like that?
saudivette
Clueless In Sandland
Ok then, no.
It's a fiberglass car. Using an orbital sander of any sort will go straight through the primer and into the gel coat on any high points, not to mention leaving little sanding "squiggles" all over the car. SMYDA or someone who does it for a living might chime in but unless you want to be covering the whole car with spot and spray putty, I'd do it by hand.
Better?
It's a fiberglass car. Using an orbital sander of any sort will go straight through the primer and into the gel coat on any high points, not to mention leaving little sanding "squiggles" all over the car. SMYDA or someone who does it for a living might chime in but unless you want to be covering the whole car with spot and spray putty, I'd do it by hand.
Better?
YES..........I get you a pic of one today and post up this evening. :thumbs:
enkeivette
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Last edited:
saudivette
Clueless In Sandland
Crikey, I stand corrected. I look forward to seeing the results
TIME TO ELABORATE...........
First Off........TO QUOTE...........:
"It's a fiberglass car. Using an orbital sander of any sort will go straight through the primer and into the gel coat on any high points, not to mention leaving little sanding "squiggles" all over the car.............but unless you want to be covering the whole car with spot and spray putty, I'd do it by hand."
In the Hands of a NOVICE this is so very, very TRUE........and exactly what I would tell a beginner.........:wink:
To answer your question...........
"Is there any such thing as a power sander with a flexible face? Something that would form to the curves of the C3 to take the primer off of the body?"
I'm not sure if I have the "correct" term for it..........but we always refer to it
as an "Interface Pad". It goes between the Sand Paper and the Pad on a Palm Sander.
These are typically used in the prep shop to sand panels prior to paint.
Or clear coat before buffing with "FINE" grit papers. You are far less likely
to accidentally burn through an edge.
The next two photos show what I referring to....
The one on the Left is a 3M brand......we use "velcro" paper this is why the pads have velcro sides.
The brand new pads on the Right are made by "CARBORUNDUM".
The yellow piece is the DA pad for the palm sander the thick black foam piece
is the Interface Pad........twice as thick as 3M.
These photos show the flexibilities of the Interface Pad.
I never use mine for Body Filler Work.........BUT.............It could be used to
remove primer from a Vette. It would be more forgiving than NOT using one.
But keep in mind that 80 and even 180 grit papers are aggressive enough to
screw up an edge even while using an Interface Pad. I would still recommend
these areas be done (like Saudi said) by hand.
The biggest mistake newbies make with a palm sander is wanting to stand it up
on it's edge to sand that little scratch or that small area of paint and that's when
they dig a low spot that doesn't show up till the new paint is applied and now
it looks like a crater.
PHOTO:
The action is a little exaggerated here.........BUT it is a natural tendency to do it
till you train yourself NOT TO.
It was funny watching my son learn. I would pick up the sander off the grown
and say you were not holding it flat.....but standing it on it's edge.
His reply.........you weren't here how can you tell.
Look at the paper......used on the edge still new in the middle.
Again.........I don't recommend a beginner strip fiberglass with a palm sander (DA).
But the truth is........there's only one way to learn........:huh:
Take one layer off at a time.....I mean the whole car..... NOT 3" squares at a time.
Stay away from any edges or sharp body lines. It takes less time to sand them
by hand than to go back a "FIX" all of them. A good Interface Pad should
keep you from getting yourself in to much trouble.
HAPPY SANDING..........:thumbs:
First Off........TO QUOTE...........:
"It's a fiberglass car. Using an orbital sander of any sort will go straight through the primer and into the gel coat on any high points, not to mention leaving little sanding "squiggles" all over the car.............but unless you want to be covering the whole car with spot and spray putty, I'd do it by hand."
In the Hands of a NOVICE this is so very, very TRUE........and exactly what I would tell a beginner.........:wink:
To answer your question...........
"Is there any such thing as a power sander with a flexible face? Something that would form to the curves of the C3 to take the primer off of the body?"
I'm not sure if I have the "correct" term for it..........but we always refer to it
as an "Interface Pad". It goes between the Sand Paper and the Pad on a Palm Sander.
These are typically used in the prep shop to sand panels prior to paint.
Or clear coat before buffing with "FINE" grit papers. You are far less likely
to accidentally burn through an edge.
The next two photos show what I referring to....
The one on the Left is a 3M brand......we use "velcro" paper this is why the pads have velcro sides.
The brand new pads on the Right are made by "CARBORUNDUM".
The yellow piece is the DA pad for the palm sander the thick black foam piece
is the Interface Pad........twice as thick as 3M.
These photos show the flexibilities of the Interface Pad.
I never use mine for Body Filler Work.........BUT.............It could be used to
remove primer from a Vette. It would be more forgiving than NOT using one.
But keep in mind that 80 and even 180 grit papers are aggressive enough to
screw up an edge even while using an Interface Pad. I would still recommend
these areas be done (like Saudi said) by hand.
The biggest mistake newbies make with a palm sander is wanting to stand it up
on it's edge to sand that little scratch or that small area of paint and that's when
they dig a low spot that doesn't show up till the new paint is applied and now
it looks like a crater.
PHOTO:
The action is a little exaggerated here.........BUT it is a natural tendency to do it
till you train yourself NOT TO.
It was funny watching my son learn. I would pick up the sander off the grown
and say you were not holding it flat.....but standing it on it's edge.
His reply.........you weren't here how can you tell.
Look at the paper......used on the edge still new in the middle.
Again.........I don't recommend a beginner strip fiberglass with a palm sander (DA).
But the truth is........there's only one way to learn........:huh:
Take one layer off at a time.....I mean the whole car..... NOT 3" squares at a time.
Stay away from any edges or sharp body lines. It takes less time to sand them
by hand than to go back a "FIX" all of them. A good Interface Pad should
keep you from getting yourself in to much trouble.
HAPPY SANDING..........:thumbs:
enkeivette
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2008
- Messages
- 990
Just got back from the hardware store, I can't find an electric sander with those huge foam pads. Does anyone make one?
And how does the sand paper adhere to the foam pad?
Thanks BTW!
And how does the sand paper adhere to the foam pad?
Thanks BTW!
This isn't a hardware store item.
You will need to go to an Automotive Paint Supply House or Auto Body Supply.
The pads pictured use Velcro paper.
They "might" make a pad to fit an electric sander.
All of mine are Pneumatic (air powered).
......I'm not sure if they make an Interface Pad for sticky paper.
But it would easy to make an adapter from a piece of slick vinyl
and glue some Velcro to it.
You will need to go to an Automotive Paint Supply House or Auto Body Supply.
The pads pictured use Velcro paper.
They "might" make a pad to fit an electric sander.
All of mine are Pneumatic (air powered).
......I'm not sure if they make an Interface Pad for sticky paper.
But it would easy to make an adapter from a piece of slick vinyl
and glue some Velcro to it.
SmokinBBC
Well-known member
SMYDA, if you have a local NAPA with a paint department, you can get the 3M backing pad, interface pad and sanding disks for a DA type sander.
Check this out, is this what he needs?
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(...?Ntt=sanding pad&Nao=90&Nty=1&N=0&Ntk=Keyword
Check this out, is this what he needs?
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(...?Ntt=sanding pad&Nao=90&Nty=1&N=0&Ntk=Keyword
MMM 05771 .........is what I've been calling an Interface Pad.
The pad (part) that actually attaches to the tool (if you buy from 3M) comes two different ways.
Hookit.........and Hookit II.
CARBORUNDUM....I believe only has the original (Hookit) type set up.
(Our shop is making the switch from 3M to CARBORUNDUM ..... it's cheaper)
Remember this is a Velcro set up......Velcro has a plastic side and a cloth side.
Hookit...... has the plastic on the Pad and cloth on the paper. Which makes the paper difficult to tear if you need a smaller piece.
Hookit II........has the Cloth on the pad and Plastic on the paper.
The Interface Pad will work with either.....just flip it accordingly.
Sounds like a lot of fuss I know............the advantage to this set up is you
can go from one grit to another and back with the same sheet of paper.
Where with the sticky once you pulled it off the pad seldom were you ever able to re-stick it to use again.
Also if the pad got the lest bit dirty the paper would be flying off across the shop. :nuts:
JUST A NOTE: This stuff costs a little more.........you can always buy the cheap stuff.
My experience is you will end up using twice as much cheap stuff to sand
the same a mount as the good stuff. In the end you spend the same money. :bonkers:
JMHO.....others may vary.
The pad (part) that actually attaches to the tool (if you buy from 3M) comes two different ways.
Hookit.........and Hookit II.
CARBORUNDUM....I believe only has the original (Hookit) type set up.
(Our shop is making the switch from 3M to CARBORUNDUM ..... it's cheaper)
Remember this is a Velcro set up......Velcro has a plastic side and a cloth side.
Hookit...... has the plastic on the Pad and cloth on the paper. Which makes the paper difficult to tear if you need a smaller piece.
Hookit II........has the Cloth on the pad and Plastic on the paper.
The Interface Pad will work with either.....just flip it accordingly.
Sounds like a lot of fuss I know............the advantage to this set up is you
can go from one grit to another and back with the same sheet of paper.
Where with the sticky once you pulled it off the pad seldom were you ever able to re-stick it to use again.
Also if the pad got the lest bit dirty the paper would be flying off across the shop. :nuts:
JUST A NOTE: This stuff costs a little more.........you can always buy the cheap stuff.
My experience is you will end up using twice as much cheap stuff to sand
the same a mount as the good stuff. In the end you spend the same money. :bonkers:
JMHO.....others may vary.
enkeivette
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2008
- Messages
- 990
I haven't been able to find those foam interfaces for the electric DA. I'll check NAPA tomorrow. But I bought one tonight anyways, it has a rubber face so it's somewhat flexible.
God bless power sanders! I can't imagine having done this by hand. :twitch:
God bless power sanders! I can't imagine having done this by hand. :twitch:
big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
Adam. Go see Stan Betz at Betz Speed and Color on Katella by Angel Stadium.
MYBAD79
Moderator
Try the razor blade method - you'll be amazed how easy it is. Yes, there's a risk that you damage the SMC and dig into the material but just like the DA sander you will develope a good feel for it ... like SMYDA says, there's only one way to learn.....
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
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- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
If you round off the edges of the blade you won't dig into the glass nearly as easy. I stripped my entire car in a couple of hours with a blade.
