Finally 1 7/8 in. header for us small block guys !

redvetracr said:
SUPERPOWERS said:
57861]
these are in the prototype stage and will be available soon. And every one of you will be able to afford them. :bounce:
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yea but can you afford to sell them?
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you are god damn right I can! AND WILL!


010752 said:
Chinese stuff is looking better, definitely cheap enough. :nuts:

This outfit labels for anybody, guess they are going to broaden their market to C3's.

Unbelievable how cheap they can make these.
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alright you ass clown, WTF is your problem??

These are not and I repeat NOT MADE IN CHINA!. they are designed and fabricated right here in the USA.

Do you have a problem with everyone getting a good deal on a quality product? I personally have these and the sidepipes (big block and small block) and the C6 system in my possession and I would have no problem putting them on my $60,000 Custom C3 vette!



Twin_Turbo said:
I had a feeling they were chinese
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NOPE!

Twin_Turbo said:
the reason is those weld beads look like typical beads done for looks. Now, they look good but the bead buildup and litle overlap between the drops is typical. They do this becaused welding like that prevents full penetration and the need for backing gas, if you do have full penetration without backing gas you'll get a rough texture on the inside and the weld will turn gray instead pf the nice and shiny look they now have.

As for the pipes being hay/brown, they will discolor all the way from heat if you run them.

Do the pipes neck down or is it a sort of starter cone that transitions from sort of square to round?
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any stainless steel is going to turn color after you run them. I have a $2000 Kooks system on a 2010 Camaro and the sob's turned color!

the pipes do not neck down and they are not stepped. The flange has rectangle or more commonly known as square port so the round pipe is squared at the end like you stated. For those that don't know, this is done so that you can access the mounting bolt holes. Otherwise you would have to use the head plates and thus the price would increase and you are back to Stahl.


mrvette said:
:hissyfit: Course then again, why couldn't someone test fit the things, then get a good welder to go over it all again, make damn sure it's kosher....

:hunter:
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they are in fact kosher.
 
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I really can't understand why some pick apart a post when the person is trying to help out. These are not chinese headers they are hand made in the USA. The welding is very good and the stainless steel ( 321 ) is top notch.

The company wants to know if there is enough interest in them and they will go into production, simple as that. That's why they don't want there name out there right now, they don't have anything for sale yet.

It's really hard for me to understand, I am trying to help, the small block guys are making some big power these days and need bigger headers, these will be great and at a good price. Lets just try and keep it civil :beer:
 
I never attacked your headers,YOU attacked me,i just simply stated that there are other 1 7/8 tube headers for SBC on the market and i have some on my SBC vette right now. Then you went all crazy.
Your post TITLE reads: Finally 1 7/8 headers for us small block guys. They have been available for some time.
 
kwplot34 said:
I never attacked your headers,YOU attacked me,i just simply stated that there are other 1 7/8 tube headers for SBC on the market and i have some on my SBC vette right now. Then you went all crazy.
Your post TITLE reads: Finally 1 7/8 headers for us small block guys. They have been available for some time.
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and I`m just trying to figure out what a "double triple secret" is....
 
No way hand crafted american made fully tig welded 321 stainless headers can be sold for 400$ or whatever price you have in mind. I don't buy that.

As for turning brown, I know they will turn brown, I have built my fair share of full stainless exhaust systems and I actually like that color change, I'm not one for shiny bits.

As for the welds, must be the pics then but especially the ones around the collector and step down look to have a lot of bead buildup. They may look pretty but improper penetration leads to cracking especially on something that expands w/ temp and sees a lot of vibration like a header.
 
redvetracr said:
kwplot34 said:
I never attacked your headers,YOU attacked me,i just simply stated that there are other 1 7/8 tube headers for SBC on the market and i have some on my SBC vette right now. Then you went all crazy.
Your post TITLE reads: Finally 1 7/8 headers for us small block guys. They have been available for some time.
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and I`m just trying to figure out what a "double triple secret" is....
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I have no idea. If they are so dang good and revolutionary then post up the price and the manufacture.

Double triple secret :huh:
 
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My only observation is this. Superpowers VERY first post is a plug for free. By post #3 he has insulted one or more of my friends.
If you two are going to do business, you need to chill out and reread what was posted. Comments are comments, not insinuations.
 
I'm dying to know what they really are, are they not the OBX chinese headers on ebay? Flanges look identical. There are other brands w/ the same stuff, XS power (they have sidepipes too), some are labeled race headers. What are the exact primary dims? The Chinese ones I've seen all have weird tubing sizes, almost like someone converted metric sizes to the nearest sae size. This set has the same flange as the ones above, there are other sets w/ different flanges (round around the primaries with holes above the center between the primaries)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-...Accessories?hash=item563757ead3#ht_3206wt_939

Exact same way top and bottom of primaries are welded outside. A buddy of mine has some on his motor and they too are " ported" on the inside (more of a cleanup job to remove welding flash, I suspect they are tigged on the outside and then migged up inside the port which is later smoothed out) just like these in the ebay auction.

Still don't believe they are made in the USA, maybe designed there and with demand containers full ordered in China?
 
ok I'm curious: who is the seller/shop/manufacturer?
There were C3 sidepipes (Hooker repro) and C6 headers (Kooks repro) as well as cat back and axle back systems (Magnaflow, Borla) on Ebay not too long ago. They probably banned the seller by now, haven't checked recently - I'm sure they got quiet a few complaints.
I actually bought one of the Borla replica axle backs for my C6 - $350 shipped. Cannot complain at that price but one of the mufflers had a good size dent in it... seller was located in Houston, got all pissy with me when I asked him to file a claim with FedEx... hope it's not the same repro shop, those guys also claimed these exhausts were made in the USA .... BS... at that price it can't be done with legal labor.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
I had a feeling they were chinese and the reason is those weld beads look like typical beads done for looks. Now, they look good but the bead buildup and litle overlap between the drops is typical. They do this becaused welding like that prevents full penetration and the need for backing gas, if you do have full penetration without backing gas you'll get a rough texture on the inside and the weld will turn gray instead pf the nice and shiny look they now have.

As for the pipes being hay/brown, they will discolor all the way from heat if you run them.

Do the pipes neck down or is it a sort of starter cone that transitions from sort of square to round?
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Right you are again TT

My company used to sell a lot of the same Chinese junk that *************does. We no longer sell that stuff as we have had WAY too many problems with returns.

One thing to note about the welds on the manifolds, they look pretty, but they are actually really bad. The reason that they are so bad is that they do not penetrate deep enough into the metal. Basically, they are just a surface weld. Every single manifold that we sold cracked in one way or another. It did not matter what we did to the manifold, they all cracked.

Another thing that they do not do is use an Argon back purge. This process makes the welding process a lot better for the inside of the header. If you look at the inside of most of the headers, they have a lot of splatter and burn marks, this is from the lack of the Argon back purge.

If anyone buys the stuff that ************** sells, remember that you get what you pay for.
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But I guess this is the answer :waxer:

They even ported the inside of the tubes at the flange, not something you see too often on other headers
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All in all, I like them for the money and I think I might get the shorties and grind and tig them properly from the inside "ported" side.
 
Buddy of mine has the shorties, needed accel short plugs to clear the primaries on some cyls. Can't even get a box end wrench around the porcelain on #7 I think it was, major pita! Another thing, why the 2nd step down in the collector? Seen these 1-7/8 china headers w/ 3.5 collectors, so if needed to go down to 3" it would have been better off doing it w/ a necked down merge collector instead of this way, scavenging is improved w/ that design. Also, the collector looks to be rather short, another thing I've seen on the china headers.

As for the round to square transition, why use a normal pattern if you can simply use the stahl pattern with adapter plates and avoid having the bolts so close to the primaries?
 
Well that sucks big time.

Next time you see his car, check and see if they could be extended outward without hitting anything, steering box, idler etc.
 
It's this car, pretty close. The exit is pretty close to the steering linkage too, will see if it needs a heat shield there.

24b05e45e50570.jpg
 
Thanks

I don't want to deal with the plug BS.
I guess that's why you pay the big bucks for the good ss longtubes. :crylol:
 
This shows how tight the Hookers are:

100_2290small.jpg

I use Percy's (Breslin) locking bolts with a 12pt head and a 3/8" wrench that I cut down with a grinder....
 
MYBAD79 said:
I use Percy's (Breslin) locking bolts with a 12pt head and a 3/8" wrench that I cut down with a grinder....
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Percy's are great. I have yet to retorque them other than initial retorque for gasket compression.
 
I found some header bolts with a 5/16 head when i installed my new pipes,no clearance problem with them.
 
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