Corvette shifter Repair

SmokinBBC

SmokinBBC

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2008
Messages
2,730
Location
Oak Ridge, NC
Shifter has a lot of slop when not in gear. No problems in gear. Never slips out...no problems going into reverse...just that darn sloppy feeling.

Hurst shifters are tight and I could get one that has the stock look or go with a comp plus. Neither has the reverse lockout. I think that either would be a good upgrade. I have a friend with one in a TKO 5speed. Feels really nice and tight compared to my sloppy shifter.

I can buy all the parts to completely rebuild the vette shifter housing (including a new housing) for about 130bucks. I would prefer this over spending a lot more. (With the Hurst, I would have to change some linkage if not all of it). Will completely rebuilding the housing with new parts take the slop out? Is it inherent in the design? Has anyone had success rebuilding the vette shifter and taking out the play? I don't think it will ever match the Hurst....Just want to get the slop out.:banghead:

It's in my 70 muncie.
 
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WD40 on the shifter mechanism itself.....make sure the rods are adjusted and any bushings intact....

then change the tranny fluid out for 30 weight SYNTHETIC engine oil....

slick as snot on a brass doorknob....worked for mine....

run the socks off that bitch for 3+ years, and it was pronounced in GREAT shape by a tranny expert, after removal....

:beer:
 
Rods and bushings are in place and adjusted properly. No problems shifting. It is really smooth after warm.

Slop is when the shifter is in Neutral position. Left to right and right to left. Wiggles back and forth. It is the shifter mechanism that is loose. Tranny is smooth.

Did yours have a lot of side to side play in neutral?
 
One of the most common reasons for a sloppy Muncie shifter is the attaching bolts are loose.

When I take a tranny out I clean up the shifter assembly,put the housing in the vise for a little squeeze,replace all the bushings and spring clips,add large flat washers to 1-2 and 3-4 arms,use the special tool to align. They usually shift like new.
 
My 68 is a relatively low mileage car, about 80,000 miles I guess. (The speedo was broken when I bought it.)

I removed the shifter (as a part of removing the engine.) The shift mechanism, the detents, etc was covered essentially in a ball of "grease" and sand. The "grease" was probably engine oil, that over the time and heat had assumed a grease like consistency. The sand and dirt had taken their toll on the mechanism. The detents were noticeably worn and the shafts were also worn and sloppy.You could visablly see where metal had been abraided away by the sand. I replaced nearly all the parts in the mechanism.

Next the shift rods. The holes in the rods had been enlarged by abrasion also. I replaced the rods also. I bought all my parts from Volunteer Vetts. They also helped out with a problem. One of the new rods was slightly too short. I inadvertently had been sold a set of 69 and up rods. My car is a 68. One of the rods is a different length depending upon the year.

.......And as long as I'm on a roll here with this wear thing, my 70 had noticeable wearing in the brake and clutch rods. The holes were also enlarged. I replaced these rods (and the clutch Z bar) also. Haven't looked at the 70 shifter yet..I just layed it aside for later.
 
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