I made up a grid board to measure off the curves from center and horizontal to confirm symmetry. Trimmed the inside mouth area to make it the same all around. Metal work done:
Radiator w/fans and A/C Condenser
I wanted to start on the splash panels inside the bonnet but need to know where the radiator will go first. Time to get that assembly in.
I went with a Spal dual fan assembly. This was too narrow for my radiator so I split it down the middle, added a filler strip then riveted the two halves to a 1"X1" aluminum frame work:
The vertical square tubes of the frame work slip over two studs I welded to the chassis:
My radiator is a 31" x 21" Afco double pass:
Radiator in place:
The A/C condenser mounts to a welded aluminum frame work that will also support the splash panels:
This frame bolts to two stands welded to the bonnet hinge support tubes:
The original Jaguar bonnet openers consisted of a heavy spring assembly that I'm told, never worked all that well, letting the bonnet come crashing down on your head.
They make a gas shock retrofit now but of course, it wasn't close to what I needed.
I had a couple of used hood shocks from a Nissan 240SX that I played around with and with some cardboard cut-outs, came up with a configuration that seemed geometrically feasible. Thinking two shocks wouldn't be sufficient, I made allowances for four.
Bracket to mount on bonnet valance:
Bracket to mount on chassis:
Gas Shocks mounted.
The pair on the top are used with a 56 lb. rating
The pair on the bottom are new with a 34 lb. rating
This combination gave the best balance.
Here's a video of the before and after. Before, I was using a rope and pully system to lift from a center point because of the flex in the bonnet.
With the gas shocks, there's a nice balance and I'm hoping I have the correct clearance to road surface.
I had no problems with my three jabs, I am just ready and excited that things seem to be getting better, I did pick up a few lbs from working at home though. its funny at work I had ditched the elevator in favor of the stairs and I never realized the cumulative benefit of that.
I look at this work on the Jag and it gets me excited thinking about projects
With the radiator and fans mounted, I could now work on the inner fender wells. Like everything else on this car forward of the firewall, none of the original Jaguar components fit so I'll have to fabricate my own.
The radiator is Big, big and Wide. So are the tires. My steering is limited by the width of the radiator since the front edge of the tire hits the radiator tank. I therefore needed to keep the inner fender tight to the tank..
The fender wells have two parts, top and bottom. The top half is attached to the underside of the bonnet. The two obviously must mate with some kind of a weather seal.
Front tire mounted:
I'm using 1/16' sheet aluminum for the fender wells and 1" X 1/8" aluminum flat bar as a framework.
Cut, welded and bent framework:
Mounts welded in for framework:
Now all I have to do is fill it in. Both sides.
As usual, I made a CAD design first, patterns to be cut from 1/16" sheet aluminum:
These areas were rusted out, non-existent.
After installing the outer sills, I left these voids until I was further along into the fenders. Now was the time.
Left and right side, before and after:
With the 1/4" rod firmly in place representing the fender lips, I formed a few fender shapes in cardboard to see what I liked and would work with tire clearance.
Shaped 1/8" rod:
Cardboard taped in place:
After finalizing the end shape, I decided to go with four small panels in the middle and two larger ones at either end. The five 1/8" rods would mark the butt weld lines with the end panels lap welded to the body.
Final trim and body prep:
Wheel at full jounce with 1/8" rod providing fender clearance:
Wheel at ride height:
Now it was time to just fill in the blanks. I recorded the length and shape of each 1/8" dividing rod to carry over to the left side. The paper cut outs confirmed the panel sizes side to side:
The doors on this car were in tough shape. After I removed the door skins, (heavy with filler and rust) I sent the inner doors, (shells) out to be acid dipped. This removes all the rust. Not much came back.
The structure of an automotive door is quite standard in the industry. You have a shell which the hinge is mounted to and it has flanges which the edges of the door skin is folded over on.
These door shells would need new hinge mount assemblies and flanges replaced where needed.
Door shell mounted as a test fit:
Typical flange destruction, top front corner:
Bottom front and hinge mount assembly damage:
Hinge mount assembly removed:
New assembly fabricated:
Repairing the door shell flanges entailed estimating what was there originally and what the new door skin would require. I fabricated angle sections and with a liberal use of the shrinker/stretcher, plug welded them to the shell.
Awkward to handle: