Accusump install and oil filter question

69427

69427

The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
3,048
Location
Clinging to my guns and religion in KCMO.
Kicking around putting an Accusump under the hood over the winter. One question that's bothered me is what happens when the oil filter is pressurized in the opposite direction when prelubing the engine prior to start-up. Do the pump gears create enough restriction to prevent just back-flushing trash out of the filter and pushing it back into the pan? Or, will the reverse pressure swell the internal filtering media and possibly weaken/damage it?

Am I over-thinking things, or just over worrying?

Thanks for any constructive info.
 
Don't know/can't say if over thinking/worring too much. I did recall it should be pressureized @ normal running pressure, so had to take a look at my files. [My acculumulator is awaiting install too]:


12695860eba22bd44.jpg
Could plumb directly to the oil galley. That gets it where you want it, but the pump could still be there. Covers the bearings for sure, maybe not the top end? Could be a little more work and chance for a WIAT* though...

Cheers - Jim

*"While-I'm-At-It"
 
rtj said:
http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

I was curious too. The PDF instructions show a check valve.


Fig 2.

http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/instructions.pdf

Keep us updated on this upgrade. I'm interested to hear more.
Click to expand...

The problem with a check valve is that there needs to be more external plumbing to put the valve in the Tee line. I just want to run the line from the Accusump to the threaded port above the oil filter boss. I need to do some additional research, and I'm curious if there's a PF-25 filter version with a checkvalve in it.
 
I have one installed and if you don't use any kind of one way valve, they oil flows backward.

To note is that the one way valve that Canton supplies is a serious restriction to oil flow. I ended up using a ford filter that prevents reverse flow. Works like a charm.

Oh and connect the accusump in between the filter and as close to the block as possible.
 
Might be a good time to add an external filter and oil cooler. I don't like the idea of back-flowing the filter either.
 
You know this additional oil adds weight - you'll have to diet.

This may not pass the constructive info test but my friend has a Rolls Merlin powered ride that uses a pre-oiler.

Happy New Year
 
Found a couple filters with anti-drainback valves (according to the Summit website). The Wix 51060 and the AC 19187301 appear to be some parts to try. Just for amusement I think I'll e-mail Wix and ask if higher reverse pressures (during pre-lubing) cause any durability issues with the valve, and typically what is the forward pressure drop across the valve.
 
69427 said:
Found a couple filters with anti-drainback valves (according to the Summit website). The Wix 51060 and the AC 19187301 appear to be some parts to try. Just for amusement I think I'll e-mail Wix and ask if higher reverse pressures (during pre-lubing) cause any durability issues with the valve, and typically what is the forward pressure drop across the valve.
Click to expand...

Pays to ask first, doesn't it? I'm interested in hearing their answer. My guess is you've got a solution.
 
Yes pleas keep us informed. Will you add the cooler and remote or just the Accusump for pre-lube? Seems like good insurance - cooler temps (thermostat controlled), more capacity, and easier filter swaps. Small weight penalty for the added benefits I'd say.

Cheer - Jim
 
phantomjock said:
Yes pleas keep us informed. Will you add the cooler and remote or just the Accusump for pre-lube? Seems like good insurance - cooler temps (thermostat controlled), more capacity, and easier filter swaps. Small weight penalty for the added benefits I'd say.

Cheer - Jim
Click to expand...

The long term plan is to add an oil cooler too. The block has several (3?) tapped ports above the oil filter, so (hopefully) the plumbing ought to be pretty straight forward.
 
I went w/ a drysump-

I did it mainly because it was my only option the fit the engine. This is a street car...more grand touring style.

Cost-

$500-600 for hoses/fittings I used Earl's- made in the USA and they had fittings I could polish - plus they have 30º fittings which I needed for my application.

Dry Sump Tank- $300- I went w/ a Canton as I was able to fit it under the hood after removing the vacuum tank. And they are really nice looking

3 stage pump $550- I went w/ a Nutter Racing pump- Looks like a lot of pump for the money- and the guy has some good references on the pumps and the motors he builds.

Drive belt system- $350 Some used parts- some made and Peterson HTD gears

Misc-bracket/breather $200 A Moroso breather and a custom made bracket

Oil filter canister- A stock BMW piece -has an output for oil cooler and it has a anti-drain-back valve built into it. Made some AN fittings for it and it's done. I used a banjo fitting for the mechanical oil pressure gauge. I ditched the clock and running an oil temp gauge in place of it.

Oil pan- stock pan modified-a good buddy of mine welded it together-I used some P/U with strainers to keep pieces out of the pump.

SO - easily over a couple grand- and I watched what I was spending but didn't cheap out.



13964305355_9efe72319e_b.jpgDSCN4080 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

Oil tank-

14848523595_d564e10a74_b.jpgDSCN4631 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

Oil canister-mech gauge test run

DSCN4010_zpsb1c4494c.jpg


P1010557-1-1.jpg

oip pan P/u w/ heat shield

DSCN6557_zps4mgmllle.jpg

Belt drive
P1010564-1.jpg

Oil filter /canister-

P1010647.jpg

DSCN6558_zpsnfdknizy.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top