Installing A/C delete

[JPhil]

Putting on my A/C delete cover to get rid of that bigass firewall box (as well as replace the heater core & clock). Couple questions.

What is that tube from the blower motor to the airbox? I assume it's for motor cooling. There is no allowance for it on the A/C delete box. Can I cap it or what?

I also noticed in the instructions for installation of the delete box it says I need to use the 'narrow' blower motor. Shoot, do I need a different motor &/or fan assembly?

How do I deal with the wiring plug that goes to the air resistor inside the A/C box? Can anyone give me information about how to jumper it?

This job is the biggest PIA I have encountered on the car. I never want to do this again but I will be so happy when it's done.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

The hose is for cool dry air to the motor indeed. Just drill the new box for a hookup for the hose. You can get plastic flanges from a lot of other cars, f bodies and such have small screw on plastic flanges that allow you to hook it up.

The non AC has a smaller squirrel cage and sometimes the motors have a different offset but I think not on the vette.

You can wire it with the original wiring, that gives you the high speed blower relay too, something that a lot of non AC cars don't have, the blower max setting is the smallest resistor on the resistor bridge on those.

 

[JPhil]

TT, you mean mount the air resistor inside the new air box like it is in the A/C box?

Thanks, guess I'll just see if this fan fits first.

John

 

[CTVETTE78]

John,

I installed an AC delete panel on my ’78. I mounted the blower resistor toward the bottom of the assembly because I believe it fit better there. That did require lengthening the wiring.

I’ll take a photo tonight and post it up here.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Yes, the resistor inside the box and the hose hooked up, the resitor sits there so it's cooled, it gets glowing hot.

 

[mrvette]

Yes, the resistor inside the box and the hose hooked up, the resitor sits there so it's cooled, it gets glowing hot.

:shocking:You laugh your ass off if you seen one of them resistors, the way I wired one up in the a/c airflow on the dash switch....lets just say there is a good REASON I Never have tossed away and electrical crap I have collected over the decades, it's a large ceramic rotary switch that goes KLACK when moved...OVER engineered a bit, yeh, maybe....:shocking::beer:

 

[CTVETTE78]

John,

I installed an AC delete panel on my ’78. I mounted the blower resistor toward the bottom of the assembly because I believe it fit better there. That did require lengthening the wiring.

I’ll take a photo tonight and post it up here.

[/IMG]

 

[big2bird]

You can wire it with the original wiring, that gives you the high speed blower relay too, something that a lot of non AC cars don't have, the blower max setting is the smallest resistor on the resistor bridge on those.

To be clear here, the high speed blower relay "shunts" the resistors altogether.

 

[turtlevette]

The perimeter edges of that box are very sharp. I put a small cut on my finger. I lightly sanded all the way around to remover the razor edge.

Mine never fit right at all. If i pushed down on the blower side to get a good seal, the box end did not seat. If i pushed down on the box end the blower end had a big gap. I had to put a huge bead of silicon all the way around to seal up the big gaps. I don't know if it's because my car was damaged at some point. I don't like having to drill you own holes in the thing. I didn't bother to drill a big hole for that rubber tube. I didn't bother to put the resistor coils back either. Its either off or on high. The next step is to eliminate the high speed relay and just run direct to the motor.

You're right Phil. This is way too hard for what it is because the thing is a pice of crap.