'82 Glass T-Top Adjustment...

[Luster]

The front edges fit perfectly. At the back, there is a huge gap between the tops in the center of the t-bar.
They are also sitting too high at the rear of the window causing an air gap between the side window and the t-top weather stripping.

It actually looks like someone has removed the rear brackets that mount to the body and put them back in the wrong place, because the tops are sticking up about 1/2" on each side.

Any help here? (It's worse than it looks in this picture.)

 

[big2bird]

The front edges fit perfectly. At the back, there is a huge gap between the tops in the center of the t-bar.
They are also sitting too high at the rear of the window causing an air gap between the side window and the t-top weather stripping.

It actually looks like someone has removed the rear brackets that mount to the body and put them back in the wrong place, because the tops are sticking up about 1/2" on each side.

Any help here?

Sure. Pictures would help. My first comment would be, glass tops do have a 1/4" gap or so down the middle, and naturally sit above the roof in the back.

 

[big2bird]

Any help here? (It's worse than it looks in this picture.)

Okay. First off. Ignore the gap between. It's just the way they are made.
Second, your correct. They have installed too many shims in the center to pull the old weatherstrip down to seal, and had to adjust the "pin" receptacles out. I'll try to find some better pics today.

If you were to remove the hardware, just sit them on top, and look at them. That's closer to where they should sit.

 

[Luster]

Thanks Bird.... I'll try to get some better pics up tonight.

The gap at the front is 1/4". At the back it's almost 3/4".

And the sides (where you see the yellow arrow) are about 1/2" to high.

 

[big2bird]

Thanks Bird.... I'll try to get some better pics up tonight.

The gap at the front is 1/4". Correct At the back it's almost 3/4".Holy crap

And the sides (where you see the yellow arrow) are about 1/2" to high.

Oh my. It is indeed way out. Let's compare pictures later. I'll also try to find the adjustment procedure. I have it somewhere.

 

[Luster]

Second, your correct. They have installed too many shims in the center to pull the old weatherstrip down to seal, and had to adjust the "pin" receptacles out. .

So I assume that I can "undo" what was done incorrectly, by adjusting the pin receptacles? The obvious next questions is how?

 

[Luster]

Oh my. It is indeed way out. Let's compare pictures later. I'll also try to find the adjustment procedure. I have it somewhere.

I'm out on a jobsite in the middle of Kansas right now. I'll be home tonight and take some pics and get back to you.

Thanks for the quick response...

 

[big2bird]

So I assume that I can "undo" what was done incorrectly, by adjusting the pin receptacles? The obvious next questions is how?

You loosen the two screws that bolt it to the car. It floats to a degree in there. Just like the door striker does.

 

[Luster]

You loosen the two screws that bolt it to the car. It floats to a degree in there. Just like the door striker does.

Thanks... I'll get some close-ups of the pin receptacles and show you how far "outboard" they are. It almost looks like someone drilled new holes and moved them!

Who knows, this car could have been crashed and that whole birdcage could have been rebuilt... :confused2::confused2::confused2:

 

[Luster]

Here ya go Bird... perhaps the most ill-fitting T-Tops ever installed on a Vette.

I just set them on the car loosely without latching them down. Then I pressed down on the corner that's sticking up 1/2". It wouldn't budge. The weather stripping is so dense that it won't go any closer to the body.

I think when someone put new weather stripping on the tops, they had to adjust the receptacle out in order to make the top fit.

 

[big2bird]

Here are some pics. I did not find the sheet I looked for.






Basically, you remove all the plastic covers on the tops, loosen ALL the screws on the two tangs, the front post, and the rear latches. You also loosen the striker/pin receptacles. Place the tops on, adjust the center gaps for even spacing, then attempt to lock it all down. The "tang" shims are to get them even where they meet in the center.
Also, unless you use soft Latex style GM type seals, your in for a headache.
Mine where so bad, I tried for 3 weeks to get them to fit correctly.:suicide: I finally sprung $1,000 for 2 new ones when my wife cried uncle. They fit perfectly out of the box. (In other words, I gave up):lol::lol::lol:
In my case, the previous owner had a "professional" re-set the glass. He f****D them up so bad, there was no way they were ever going to fit right.:wink:

 

[Luster]

Here are some pics. I did not find the sheet I looked for.

:

I'd be willing to KILL for my tops to fit like that!!!

I really think it's the weather stripping. They are as HARD AS A ROCK.

I will follow your instructions to the letter and see if I can make any adjustments...

Is there any way to get the "GM-style" without spending that kind of money?

 

[big2bird]

http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/GLASS-TOPS.html

Look at the bottom. $99.00

 

[Luster]

http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/GLASS-TOPS.html

Look at the bottom. $99.00

Thanks... I don't think the 18-pin soft weather strip is the problem. Mine looks brand new and is very soft and pliable.

After further investigation, it looks like the dense hard rubber window seal is very thick at the rear corner and won't allow the top to move down into the correct position.

I'm going take it all apart this weekend and I'll report back.

 

[big2bird]

Good luck. It can be very frustrating. Try not to smash them with a sledge hammer.:banghead:

 

[Luster]

Good luck. It can be very frustrating. Try not to smash them with a sledge hammer.:banghead:

HAHA! Yeah, I think the ONE-GRAND price tag will override my desire to do that!

 

[big2bird]

From the 81 Heim shop manual

 

[Luster]

Thanks for the diagrams and instructions. I need to digest all that.