Weight reduction: Running out of ideas.

[68/70Vette]

A Lithium Hydride battery will save a lot of weight, but there's two problems. One is the battery voltage of a Lithium Hydride battery is a little different that a lead acid battery. You'll have to customize the voltage regulator in your alternator to match the Li Hy battery. There's only a few tenths of voltage difference, so other than alternator regulator voltage, you'll be good to go. You will have to address the regulator voltage issue, or otherwise you'll have battery charging problems. The Lithium Hydride sold for the Porsche is a $2500 dollar option. Porsche options are wildly over priced, but you can still expect to see an expensive battery. I think approximately 12 volt Lithium batteries are sold for private airplanes LIST]
[/LIST]

 

[redvetracr]

I have in my possession a brand new (still in the wrapper) Pro Glass Lexan front windshield, if you or anyone else is interested send a PM

 

[phantomjock]

PM enroute - Thanks!
Jim

 

[69427]

I wonder if an early C4 pre-airbag steering column would be option for some reduced weight. The stock C4 steering wheel is a pretty ugly POS, and I'm curious if the wheel attachment method (8 or 10 screws) is the same. I would assume the electrical wiring could be adapted without much headache.

Anyone deal with C4 columns enough to offer up an opinion?

 

[denpo]

Fiberglass corner moldings

 

[68/70Vette]

...a little bit of a go back.

That gross cast iron piece that mounts the steering column column to the base of the windshield is probably not that difficult to replace, ..if you remove the steering column. For my 68 and 70, removing the steering column was not that difficult. Once the column is removed, everything under the dash pad is so much easier to work with.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

I wonder if an early C4 pre-airbag steering column would be option for some reduced weight. The stock C4 steering wheel is a pretty ugly POS, and I'm curious if the wheel attachment method (8 or 10 screws) is the same. I would assume the electrical wiring could be adapted without much headache.

Anyone deal with C4 columns enough to offer up an opinion?

Wheel is held on eith a nut on a splined shaft. Completely different. Will also not fit your dash panel.

 

[69427]

Fiberglass corner moldings

I'm not following you. What are corner moldings?

 

[69427]

I wonder if an early C4 pre-airbag steering column would be option for some reduced weight. The stock C4 steering wheel is a pretty ugly POS, and I'm curious if the wheel attachment method (8 or 10 screws) is the same. I would assume the electrical wiring could be adapted without much headache.

Anyone deal with C4 columns enough to offer up an opinion?

Wheel is held on eith a nut on a splined shaft. Completely different. Will also not fit your dash panel.

Well, I guess I'll scratch that idea. Thanks.

 

[69427]

In the event that I end up putting the lighter Muncie back in the car I was looking at the stock shifter today and it looks like I could take a couple pounds off it by fabricating some aluminum shifter rods and transmission arms. During a slow period last year I carved out an aluminum arm for the Nash fifth/reverse gears and it's been holding up fine. I've also got some pieces of aluminum round bar and tubing laying around that would work for the shifter rods.

I swapped out the transmission in 1983, so I'm a bit foggy on the original shifter setup. IIRC didn't the shifter mount to a bracket that bolted to the crossmember? I think I'll mock things up on the bench and see how much PITA it is to mount the shifter to the transmission tailhousing with a simple bracket somewhat like Hurst shifters use.

I made an aluminum shifter handle for the Hurst, but I don't think that's an easy option with the stock shifter.

 

[69427]

...a little bit of a go back.

That gross cast iron piece that mounts the steering column column to the base of the windshield is probably not that difficult to replace, ..if you remove the steering column. For my 68 and 70, removing the steering column was not that difficult. Once the column is removed, everything under the dash pad is so much easier to work with.

I appreciate the advice. :thumbs:

 

[68/70Vette]

...a little bit of a go back.

That gross cast iron piece that mounts the steering column column to the base of the windshield is probably not that difficult to replace, ..if you remove the steering column. For my 68 and 70, removing the steering column was not that difficult. Once the column is removed, everything under the dash pad is so much easier to work with.

I appreciate the advice. :thumbs:

When I replaced the cast iron piece, that and installing a Hydrobeast at the same time I had occasion to disassemble the pedal clutch/brake assembly for my 70. The 70 is a high mileage car. The clutch/brake assembly is essentially unlubricated and it had signs of wear. I replaced it with new parts. The "bearings" for the assembly are nylon bushings. I replaced them also. The new parts, etc, were not expensive.

 

[denpo]

Fiberglass corner moldings

I'm not following you. What are corner moldings?

I know it breaks the "keep it stock looking" rules as you'd loose the chrome.

 

[68/70Vette]

For weight reduction, I'm thinking you may have hit the wall...that's where all the low hanging fruit and maybe medium hanging fruit for weight reduction has been addressed. For sure, with weight reduction, you will...if not already...reach the point were weight reduction requires big money and custom design for those extra few pounds. Best of luck and keep us informed with any weight reduction.

 

[68/70Vette]

Running out of ideas to get some more weight out of the '69. I'm down to about a half dozen, all of them a slight PITA.



That's all I got. If anybody can think of any less painful ways to take some more weight out of the car I would appreciate the input.

Thanks,
Mike

Maybe I've asked this question before...do you have an all aluminum engine?
I've bought an all aluminum Keith Black BB for my 70.

In terms of performance replacing your 99 pound Doug Nash tranny with a 20 pound less Muncie may not be good for drivability.
With my Muncie, I was doing about 3000 rpm's at 70 mph. I installed a TKO 600 five speed and now I'm doing a little less than 2000 at 70 mph. The five speed may weigh a little more, but you do get a lot of extra performance that probably makes up for the weight difference.

 

[redvetracr]

[/quote]

Maybe I've asked this question before...do you have an all aluminum engine?
I've bought an all aluminum Keith Black BB for my 70.

.[/QUOTE]


I`m jealous...big time

 

[69427]

Running out of ideas to get some more weight out of the '69. I'm down to about a half dozen, all of them a slight PITA.



That's all I got. If anybody can think of any less painful ways to take some more weight out of the car I would appreciate the input.

Thanks,
Mike

Maybe I've asked this question before...do you have an all aluminum engine? Yes.
I've bought an all aluminum Keith Black BB for my 70.

In terms of performance replacing your 99 pound Doug Nash tranny with a 20 pound less Muncie may not be good for drivability.
With my Muncie, I was doing about 3000 rpm's at 70 mph. I installed a TKO 600 five speed and now I'm doing a little less than 2000 at 70 mph. The five speed may weigh a little more, but you do get a lot of extra performance that probably makes up for the weight difference.

My Nash 5 speed is a 1:1 fifth gear, so the only issue with going back to the Muncie is how often I take off from a standing start as the Nash has a nice low first gear.

 

[enkeivette]

In the event that I end up putting the lighter Muncie back in the car I was looking at the stock shifter today and it looks like I could take a couple pounds off it by fabricating some aluminum shifter rods and transmission arms. During a slow period last year I carved out an aluminum arm for the Nash fifth/reverse gears and it's been holding up fine. I've also got some pieces of aluminum round bar and tubing laying around that would work for the shifter rods.

I swapped out the transmission in 1983, so I'm a bit foggy on the original shifter setup. IIRC didn't the shifter mount to a bracket that bolted to the crossmember? I think I'll mock things up on the bench and see how much PITA it is to mount the shifter to the transmission tailhousing with a simple bracket somewhat like Hurst shifters use.

I made an aluminum shifter handle for the Hurst, but I don't think that's an easy option with the stock shifter.

Ha, you're crazy. Are you racing your car in some class?

Pull the engine out, bolt a tire to the crank, straddle it and pull the throttle cable. That will save you about 2,500 lbs.

If you have to keep a stock look, maybe cut some metal out of the wheels behind the hub rings?

Rip out any wires you dont need. I shipped a wiring harness for an RX7 and it was over 50 lbs.

 

[vette427sbc]

Only a few ounces, but some kind of composite gas filler door. Simple shape to make out of some flat plastic or something even fancier

 

[68/70Vette]

Maybe I've asked this question before...do you have an all aluminum engine?
I've bought an all aluminum Keith Black BB for my 70.

.[/QUOTE]


I`m jealous...big time[/QUOTE]

Well, for now you don't have to be so jealous. The Keith Black aluminum BB engine does have a Keith Black billet crank (for 454), but it has no con rods, pistons, cam shaft, or push rods. I called Keith Black about displacement about a year ago...they're not sure I can do 502 cubic inches since I bought the block back in........can you believe this......1989. They are not too sure about the sleeve diameters. I may have to settle for a little less than 502. The cylinder heads are Brodix rectangular ports and are populated with valves, springs, etc. ...So I have yet to pay for the expense of building up the short block. I'd like to have the Brodix heads upgraded...the cylinder heads need to be cc'd and polished. ...A lot of things to spend money on. I just slowly keep spending small amounts of money...sometimes a big amount...and maybe eventually I'll get there!! I got three Corvettes to feed. Looks like my next priority expense will be to put new windows in the 68 convertible. No problem if I can be gainfully employed until I have my 120th birthday.

 

[68/70Vette]

mmm duplicate post...please delete

 

[vette427sbc]

Another easy one (relatively speaking)...
The "headlight opening cover stop" I just looked at mine and it is 1/4" thick steel! Looks like a prime candidate for some aluminum with some speed holes

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-headlight-opening-cover-stop-right-1970-1982.html

 

[phantomjock]

Here's more than a few pounds of weight.

Pull the seats and replace with the Kirkey or Butler Seat of your choice. Not cheap - but you'll gain some headroom if you dont add a slide mechanism and save that weight too. (Maybe 40 pounds with both sides - maybe more.)

Also, pull the DOT Approved seat/shoulder belts - the retract reel ought to have some weight - and replace with a 5 or 6 belt configuration.

If you've reduced you power needs - smaller alternator maybe.

Interior lights - eliminate them and use LEDs - one for one the LED is lighter I'd bet - but not brighter!

Any other wild ideas?

Cheers - Jim

 

[phantomjock]

Here's some DATA

Went snooping on the LS1 Site:


Stock power seat...........41lbs
--------------------------------------------------------------

Kirkey...........................12lbs
Seat cover......................3lbs
5 point harness.................5lbs
Seat brackets/brace..........6lbs

That is SIGNIFICANT!

 

[69427]

Another easy one (relatively speaking)...
The "headlight opening cover stop" I just looked at mine and it is 1/4" thick steel! Looks like a prime candidate for some aluminum with some speed holes

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-headlight-opening-cover-stop-right-1970-1982.html

We're on the same wavelength. :thumbs: (I've since opened up the holes a bit more.)

 

[69427]

Pull the seats and replace with the Kirkey or Butler Seat of your choice. Not cheap - but you'll gain some headroom if you dont add a slide mechanism and save that weight too. (Maybe 40 pounds with both sides - maybe more.) I got some '79 seats from Karsten. Between the seats and the custom brackets I fabricated I took out about thirty pounds for the pair. They also have a bit more support than the flat '69 seats.

Also, pull the DOT Approved seat/shoulder belts - the retract reel ought to have some weight - and replace with a 5 or 6 belt configuration.

If you've reduced you power needs - smaller alternator maybe.

Interior lights - eliminate them and use LEDs - one for one the LED is lighter I'd bet - but not brighter!

Any other wild ideas?

Cheers - Jim

I put in a Denso alternator recently. It's 42 amps and seven pounds, while the original alternator is 37 amps and 11 pounds.

 

[68/70Vette]

The 68 and 70 stock seats are amazingly heavy. Since they are so big, it's difficult to maneuver them around. The new C7 has magnesium seat frames!

 

[68/70Vette]

What about all the bumper support brackets in aluminum? Actually,replace the steel bolts with aluminum bolts?

There was once a long time ago, a Canadian poster, Norvald (?) who drilled a lot of holes in his frame, control arms, trailing arms, etc to loose weight.

Can you cite what you think your present weight is? The new C7's are 3300 (3341?) pounds. They have all aluminum, composite fiber, fiberglass, etc...no steel frames.

 

[vette427sbc]

Do they make fiberglass bumpers/ bumperettes? My bumperettes are fairly beaten up and I was thinking they could be made in fiberglass then chrome vinyl wrapped. Could be a good 3-4 lb weight savings if your handy with fiberglass

 

[69427]

What about all the bumper support brackets in aluminum? Got 'em in the rear bumpers. Fronts are still steel until I can duplicate the strength of the present steel brackets. Actually,replace the steel bolts with aluminum bolts?

There was once a long time ago, a Canadian poster, Norvald (?) who drilled a lot of holes in his frame, control arms, trailing arms, etc to loose weight. I've drilled a few holes here and there, but it's incredibly inefficient in time and electricity (for the drill). Replacing with aluminum seems to work quicker for me.

Can you cite what you think your present weight is? The new C7's are 3300 (3341?) pounds. They have all aluminum, composite fiber, fiberglass, etc...no steel frames.

2950# with a quarter tank of fuel at the Tech/registration scales at Heartland Park-Topeka track day a few weeks ago.
When autocrossing I lose the tops and rear window, along with most of the fuel, so take off another 35-40 pounds there.

I bought some aluminum rectangular tubing last week to make a new transmission crossmember. Hoping to lose about 10# with the swap, along with about 30# additional reduction with the reinstallation of the original Muncie instead of the present Nash 5 speed.