Plastic Fantastic 2

Well, I think I'm pretty sure the cascade of events that led to the FiTech dying.
but first

hood fits
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ish
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some trimming will occur
Interior is mostly back together
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some preliminary tuning happened
butedited
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So what happened. I think the headlights were the proverbial straw - the fans were running full bore and the switch couldn't handle the 30 amp current.... that popped the fuse and created a voltage surge.edited Which scrambled the computer and took the alternator with it.edited I gave up when the alternator wasn't charging... by that time, it really didn't matter... today, it was generating 12.5 volts.editededited

The alternator is, iirc, a 63 amp alternator because, well, I didn't expect to be running fans or a EFI fuel pump.edited Add that 30 amp headlight lift and there it is.edited Had the car been off when I flipped the switch, I would have been annoyed at the headlights not popping up but the car would have continued to work.edited Anyway, a new DB alternator should be here Friday....edited

and before FiTech starts claiming vindication - no. Had they called me back like they promised, we could have diagnosed the problem and I'd have gotten to race..... jerks.
 
I'm not sure how your ECU power supply is wired, but my ECU manufacturer recommended a 30 amp relay for power and a 20 amp fuse after that to protect the ECU.

Reference your earlier question about the GT-500 wing, the center section is "scooped" to change the angle of incidence (and consequently, the angle of attack) for the center section of the wing where the airflow into the wing is influenced by the flow over the roof. The angle in the center for that wing is basically a generic solution for late model stuff like C6 Corvettes and fastback Mustangs. The outboard ends of the wing do most of the downforce work because the airflow is not effected as much by the doghouse. If you look at the Viper ACR wing (they spent hundreds of hours in the wind tunnel), they made the outboard ends into a bi-plane to create more downforce - at the expense of more drag. If you really wants tons of downforce, the GT-1000 dual element wing is the ticket - but it is also plenty draggy.
 
mfain said:
I'm not sure how your ECU power supply is wired, but my ECU manufacturer recommended a 30 amp relay for power and a 20 amp fuse after that to protect the ECU.

Reference your earlier question about the GT-500 wing, the center section is "scooped" to change the angle of incidence (and consequently, the angle of attack) for the center section of the wing where the airflow into the wing is influenced by the flow over the roof. The angle in the center for that wing is basically a generic solution for late model stuff like C6 Corvettes and fastback Mustangs. The outboard ends of the wing do most of the downforce work because the airflow is not effected as much by the doghouse. If you look at the Viper ACR wing (they spent hundreds of hours in the wind tunnel), they made the outboard ends into a bi-plane to create more downforce - at the expense of more drag. If you really wants tons of downforce, the GT-1000 dual element wing is the ticket - but it is also plenty draggy.
Click to expand...

They want it wired directly to the battery. No fuse... I'm kind of not following their advice because I wired it to remote terminals. I'll say this for certain, not putting some kind of fuse or disconnect in that line goes against absolutely everything I've ever been taught, seen or heard. That said, it's also their warranty and potentially their liability if something goes dreadfully wrong.

That makes sense about the changed angle of attack... love learnin' new things.
 
back to the hood....
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hardly a twitch to cut on a painted car any more
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what to use for marking compound? ah yes, anti-seize
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and cutting commences
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got the new alternator... if I can remember where I got the other; it's probably still under warrantyedited
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More inductees into the Aaron C3 Club.edited Not my car, but a friend's

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73 350 car, one owner, 4 speed, needs a complete restoration but drove most of the way home... I think the coil is bad.edited The PO thought vaporlock, but the carb still has fuel in it when it dies.... new fuel pump, new cap, new plugs, new points... dies when it gets fully heat soaked....
 
In new C3 news - new coil and the right, rear bearing is in tough shape (which we knew at the initial inspection).... so no major drives until that gets fixed. I'm trying to convince him that a LS 427 and 5 speed would be the right choice... I think he's going with ridetech rear, with offset trailing arms and coil overs along with a full rebuild to fix the suspension issues.

In PF2 news
A4 Corbeau seats ordered (with brackets). Get this, they called me to let me know the seat I ordered wouldn't fit. How weird is that? customer service BEFORE the sale. Of course, they only send by FedUp - so I imagine there will be a saga.... however, it's so refreshing to get such great customer service that I have to trumpet them.
 
engine is back together
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Luigi approves
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inside, I'm getting there... the center plate wasn't well fastened and it's time to make it so
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time to fix another issue... heat to the inside....edited
the parts, a bypass, and a 160 degree thermostat
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a bypass
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and a Luigi approval
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tuned on the Holley Sniper EFI tonight.edited IAC is sticking at 30%... exercised it, found the bolts weren't tight holding it on (ugh).edited it worked for a bit, but then started acting up again.edited It's a standard IAC so I'll replace it, might even have one in my EFI box.edited Also, TPS is adjustable (like manually).... be nice if they'd mentioned that... ah well, I am here

​​​​​​​lurnin'
 
Ain't Hot-Roddin' FUN!

Sorry to read these challenges with installing EFI.
Would have expected it would be Plug and Play by now.

I'll try to remember/reflect your experience - when I get to mounting and firing up the Webers and integrating the crank trigger set up.

At least Luigi is there for support! :thumbs:

Cheers - Jim
 
took it for a run, pulled a plug
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a lot lean and a bit of detonation
added some fuel, re-tuned the IAC
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it's better, may add a touch more cruising fuel
interior is back together
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the start of Monday's project (block holes
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continuing.... those block and redirect air towards the front rotors
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move cars out of the shop
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for a Ford... I know, right? who saw that coming?
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some know, I have a loaner kid who is an amazing photographer at scale stuff.... time to get a couple things done and diagnose some issues
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basically, it needs mufflers and the tank dropped to find a leak.edited I also helped Anthony install some new chrome badging
 
Yesterday Ford, today 73 C3
still having trouble with this car dying... fuel is fine, thought it was the coil, but nope.... now changing to pertronix - maybe the resistor wire was bad, dunno, this solves that issue... but will it fix it? time will tell
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175 thunderous horsepowers there
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well it runs, again....
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i had a car that the fuel line pick up would get a piece of crude stuck in it and block the flow, car dies pressure is released crude falls down life is good until the cycle starts again randomly.....that was a bear to diagnose. because immediately after stalling it would fire right up
 
bobs77vet said:
i had a car that the fuel line pick up would get a piece of crude stuck in it and block the flow, car dies pressure is released crude falls down life is good until the cycle starts again randomly.....that was a bear to diagnose. because immediately after stalling it would fire right up
Click to expand...

it could be..... we will see how the electronic conversion fairs....
 
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