Corvette V12 Project...

The rest of the Dry Sump system....

I'm running a Peterson 3 stage- uses a gerotor type pump. Made a bracket out of 1/2" aluminum - still working on the mandrel to hold the HTD drive on the Crank/harmonic balancer.

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I took the factory bracket and had my buddy weld on a AN12 bung for the oil to the block. I'm making fittings for the factory oil canister-it has a pressure valve that will keep the oil from draining back to the pump/tank- so I don't have to worry about priming it. The stock BMW Oil canister has a bypass for too much pressure and is switched at temperature to send the hot oil to the factory oil cooler.....

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I'm gonna run a Canton tank- about 7.5 qt capacity...add the oil cooler & large factory filter I'll have a couple more qts than the stock system.


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Here's where it's gonna go-Mock up box-I'm losing the vacuum tank...but was thinking..running a dry sump system I'll have a lot of vacuum all the time- so really no need at all for the tank.


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I've got all my AN fittings- next I'll have to start making the 7 hoses...

Getting closer to at least starting it....

Richard
 
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Here's the front accessories almost ready to run. Tight fit. But standard serp belt size- stock BMW tensioner and pulleys. I wanted this thing serveceable w/o having to pull the engine!!!

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Here's the crank bolt adapter- just a ½ piece of aluninum...but we had to cut down the mandrel almost an inch to work.

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And a NASCAR belt....

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The oil filter housing was just to big from the V12- so I got one off a newer BMW 7 series. Modded the factory lines w/ a couple of steel AN 12 bungs.

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The oil line bracket on the side of the BMW block was just too big- had double duty as a oil line plate and alternator bracket. The finished piece has very little left on it... it also has an aluminum AN 12 fitting welded to it.

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I wanted to run the STOCK mechanical oil pressure gauge- OK call me old school- but I like the idea of oil actually flowing all the way to the gauge!!!

I'm using a bajio bolt- connected to AN4 line- and after a trip to NAPA found an adapter to convert it to fit the back of the stock gauge.

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The tach- I wanted the factory look here too....So I got 77 Vette electronic tach & hooked it's guts to my 71 face.

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Not another problem. The signal I pick up from one coil ( one dist for each side of the engine) I'll only be reading 6 cylinder.....then I found this-
It will do what I want to get done!!

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Here's where I found it-
http://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html
Richard
 
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HI Richard

Very nice project.

I'm very interested in the oil pick ups and especially in the crank bolt adapter.

Have you got more info about these items?

Do you run also an oil cooler with the new cannister or isn't this necessary anymore as you're drysumping it?

Thanx!
 
Thanks!!!

The oil pick ups are from these guys-
This is the oil P/U page- some neat products and not priced like they are made out of gold...
http://store.440source.com/Oil-Pickups/products/59/

The mandrel is a standard CV product- I did have to shorted it for my application.

http://www.hipoparts.com/products/C...inum-Drive-3-bolt-3.2"-Hub-Mandrel-1.70".html

The crankbolt adapter is just some ½ aluminum drilled-tapped/countersunk and cut w/ a concentric hub to center the mandrel. Nothing really special.

I've got a CAD drawing but it's on another computer...I'll try to post it up later.



I've got - what I think - is plenty of oil...and a big ass radiator that should keep things cool. I'll monitor oil temps - and can easily add a cooler if needed- just another AN12 line...

Richard
 
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You are welcome- glad to help out.

I looked at a lot of Dry Sump System designs- most are for "race" cars- Mines going to be a street car. So I looked closely at how GM did the LS7 system- I'm not worried about loosing oil during hard cornering- but rather getting oil to the engine reliable all the time.

The pump I'm running is a Gerotor design- and it's only drawback is if a piece of debris gets to the pump- it'll stop pumping. That's why I opted for a more "standard" type P/U used in daily drivers versus the Speedway strainer type.

The magnet? That might not be too bad of an idea.

Richard
 
Very cool project, I like different! :D

Richard454 said:
I wanted to run the STOCK mechanical oil pressure gauge- OK call me old school- but I like the idea of oil actually flowing all the way to the gauge!!!

I'm using a bajio bolt- connected to AN4 line- and after a trip to NAPA found an adapter to convert it to fit the back of the stock gauge.

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Click to expand...

I am interested in the adapter you used for this, I ran an AN line as well, and then just used a short section of the stock plastic line behind the gauge until I could figure out a way to connect the AN line to the gauge fitting. I forgot about it until I saw your post! :lol:
 
Bruce-

Thanks man....I like being different.....

I don't have any number for the adapter part. The NAPA guy just let me go in the back and ramble through his fitting drawers.

Here's a good pic of it-

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More progress on the V12....


I had my buddy put a spacer ( read block of aluminum) on the Dry sump pump bracket. It shouldn't move around much w/ this-

From what I have calculated- the Dry Sump Oil Pump will pull up to 5 hp....Doesn't sound like a lot- till your lawnmower blade hits a stump or rock...So I decided the chunk of aluminum would help keep the pump from moving around.

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Here's how I'm gonna read the stock water temp gauge. I took a stock GM sensor and made a fitting (actually it's a extra AN12 fitting I had around) then welded it on to the water x-over between the heads-flowing back to the waterpump. There are two smaller sensors used for the computers running the ECUs sitting straight up. The GM was turned inside- because it would interfere w/ the firewall/wipermotor.

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Here's my external 'stock' BMW oil filter housing. It's all ready to hook up to the Dry sump pump and the side of the block. It's also ready to hook up to my mechanical oil pressure gauge (AN 4 line) and I have the bypass hose (banjo bolt -stock BMW fitting tapped on the mount) for too much pressure dumping the oil back in the pan via the fitting I added on to the side of the block.

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I had to modify the AN 12 fitting because it was too close to the motor mount....I just put it on angle to clear. Then countersunk the hex bolts for more clearance. It just came back from my buddy's place - and yes I am gonna throw it in the soda blaster.

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Richard
 
Why did you weld this section? Firewall issues? How do you gonna solve this?

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Why don't you use here the same an fitting as above?

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Ps is the bmw material easy to weld? Do you preheat it in an oven?
 
transeurope said:
Why did you weld this section? Firewall issues? How do you gonna solve this?

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Why don't you use here the same an fitting as above?

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Ps is the bmw material easy to weld? Do you preheat it in an oven?
Click to expand...

The water x-over between the heads-blocking off the heater out???

I really don't need a heater in my car...If it gets that cold here in Atlanta- I'll drive my truck w/ the heated seats....It was also interfering w/ the firewall.


I don't need a big AN 12 fitting for the oil bypass from the oil filter housing. You can see in the pic- I'm gonna use the stock BMW plug/nipple w/ the factory hose.

The BMW aluminum is dirty- it's porous and splatters a lot!

Richard

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Thanks!!!!

Been really busy w/ work...but still going to the basement and making some progress...

Sort decided to go w/ Individual throttle bodies using "Weber" DCOE flanges on top of a newer M73 V12- higher compression and about 10% more HP-and paint it Chevy orange...

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Instead of the boring hex bolts- I used some countersunk allens to pretty it up-

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Here's the engine - ready except for the intake- Alt has been rebuilt and is now good for 120A.

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I went w/ exhaust manifolds from a RHD- Japanese spec BMW to solve my clearance problems. Manifolds are stainless steel and polished up nicely-

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Kris-

I just used the stock bolt pattern from the BMW motor mounts- used the bellhousing mounting /back of block to reference for and aft- so I would be able to use the stock driveshaft /shifter location etc....

I referenced the crank centerof the Chevy and referenced it to the BMW center....then made the mounts from there- and modified what was in the way-oil pan/oil pump.

I have the dimensions on my other computer- shoot me an email to [email protected] and I send them to you.



Here's the oil pan-


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And here's the mock up of the ITBs- just got my aluminum pipe and flat bar from the brown truck today...

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Thanks- I was looking at how to incorporate the v12 script in Stingray...or I could put '327' on the hood...


A quick update... I got my throttle bodies last week. Ordered them from Jenvey ( in England) last Monday and they showed up on my doorstep THURSDAY!!!

Anyway- messing w/ how I could mount them-

Here's the set up- have the throttle linkage already done- they shipped them to run in a series ... The stock fuel rail will work-AND the OEM Bosch injectors- since the throttle bodies are 90mm center to center- Just like the original /stock fuel injection-


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Here's my first idea- the downdraft look- a lot of angle in the pipe (29 degrees) It will fit under the L88 hood-

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Then I tried this out- a crossram look- intake pipe is STRAIGHT into the head- no bends or angles...

Which do you guys like better??

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