Aluminum tierod sleeves??

They will be fine, however the hex rods are much easier to adjust than those, those only have 2 small flats on the ends and the knurled part in the center. I use those for spreader bars as you don't need to preload it much in that application. for a tie rod, if you mangle the end you're sort of screwed.
 
IMO, any steering/suspension part like a strut or tie rod end with heim joints on it like typically used, NOT a rubber doughnut....is likely to fail from aluminum fatique, ie SHATTER at a weak spot....had a fabrication of mine do that long time ago....aluminum.....replaced with steel...no more issues...

I'd be nervous as a cat on a hot tin roof....

:clobbered::devil:
 
I am a little nervous too now. I put mine in a few weeks ago, and I threaded in my moog balljoint on one end and went to adjust it, and the damn thing froze up on me. so I pull the tierod assembly out of the car and try to pull out the balljoint (which is threaded all the way in ~3" ) and its like the thing cross-threaded. I finally get it out and see that 0-1" down the tube, threads are OK. 1-2" down, the threads are completely wasted, as in, nonexistent, and then the threads 2-3" down are completely fine. Ill be looking for another set of sleeves shortly. :bomb:
:chinese:
 
vette427sbc said:
I am a little nervous too now. I put mine in a few weeks ago, and I threaded in my moog balljoint on one end and went to adjust it, and the damn thing froze up on me. so I pull the tierod assembly out of the car and try to pull out the balljoint (which is threaded all the way in ~3" ) and its like the thing cross-threaded. I finally get it out and see that 0-1" down the tube, threads are OK. 1-2" down, the threads are completely wasted, as in, nonexistent, and then the threads 2-3" down are completely fine. Ill be looking for another set of sleeves shortly. :bomb:
:chinese:
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Jesus, I was more concerned with fatigue, not a flat out failure like that....

do what I did....cut some stock tie rod sleeves, mine were really fresh when I did this, insert a 9/16 rod into them, weld, and cover over top with a piece of steel pipe, weld around it, makes a longer stock steel sleeve, I could not find one in a free form search in the parts house at the time, winter 01-02.....

use steel, that way you know your shit's straight....
 
Speedway has steel heim sleeves that are very light and very strong sold in 1" increments. At worst a slot can be cut in them to be able to use oem style clamps.

You can get oem tie rod sleeves in different lengths at a good parts supplier. Also check a good alignment shop, they go thru these all the time and have good local sources, if they will tell you. Probably a trade only supplier. Moog amd TRW makes them. At Summit also.

I always use copper antiseize on almost all threads, also prevents galling.
 
I bought those aluminum ones to use as strut rods for my 6-link and I wasn't totally confident with them so I bought thier swedged tube I think it's called and I thought it was to thin-walled tube for strut rods, even tie rod links! So I went to the local metal shop, picked up some chromemoly hex rod like TT and made them out of that. Helps to have a machine shop available to cut and face/thread the pieces accurately. I feel much better with this setup. I might do the same with the tie rod links. As far as the threads screwing up in your aluminum links, sounds like a piece of metal or something got into the threads while threading it in. The circle track guys use this stuff and it works for them, keep in mind they might get the odd hit once in a while but they run on dirt a lot, no huge pot holes and get replaced regularly.
 
BB72 said:
I bought those aluminum ones to use as strut rods for my 6-link and I wasn't totally confident with them so I bought thier swedged tube I think it's called and I thought it was to thin-walled tube for strut rods, even tie rod links! So I went to the local metal shop, picked up some chromemoly hex rod like TT and made them out of that. Helps to have a machine shop available to cut and face/thread the pieces accurately. I feel much better with this setup. I might do the same with the tie rod links. As far as the threads screwing up in your aluminum links, sounds like a piece of metal or something got into the threads while threading it in. The circle track guys use this stuff and it works for them, keep in mind they might get the odd hit once in a while but they run on dirt a lot, no huge pot holes and get replaced regularly.
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THERE you go, petted more than the family cat/dawg.....

:rofl:
 
The ones onn V-Twins car above are aluminum, not CrMo. Threads just fine, always use some kind of lube when threading steel into aluminum. Those rods are plenty strong, they are most likely stronger than the original pieces.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
The ones onn V-Twins car above are aluminum, not CrMo. Threads just fine, always use some kind of lube when threading steel into aluminum. Those rods are plenty strong, they are most likely stronger than the original pieces.
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Well man, I really can't argue from the materials engineering standpoint, just that I am very paranoid after seeing that phreakout damage to a bracket on my boat some 20 years ago....stupid little bracket, but vibration killed it deader'n a old ghost....

Last I seen factory cars use steel for tie rods....and the typical tie rod end style NOT heim joints......

:quote:
 
DOM A512 steel tube works real well so does DOM 4130

1" dia with a 0.5" wall threads easy to 5/8-18 stronger and lighter than the originals and no worries RE fatigue :bounce:
 
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