Yet another home rack

G

gimpy

Active member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
37
Location
Nebraska
Inspired by My Bad 79, and a very loose and leaky stock set up,I jumped.I couldn't locate a manual gear so I used a powered rack, from a 88 Citation giving me 2.7 turns lock to lock.I've looked and searched this for a long time, decided to use Riggs 74 set up with two Grand Am tie rods.The center link made from 3/16 plate,with 26mm spacers at the rack( the same thickness as the tie rod ends) ,the tie rod ends have a 1/2 thick 1 1/2 dia.washer welded to the back side,these are drilled & tapped 12-1.25 mm to use Grand Am rack bolts & jam nutted on the back side.An extra plate added to the front for strength also 3/16 thick.

DSC04946.jpg

The brackets holding the rack are made 1/4 plate,with 1 in. plate for the part that mounts the rack to the frame plates. These had pockets cut to let the rack clear

DSC04950.jpg

Everything gusseted with 3/16 plate.
The steering shaft ordered from Speedway, all Sweet u-joints and 3/4 in. shaft,I used weld on joints, because double d was only available in chrome,and as we all know chrome won't get ya home.

DSC04948.jpg

The column shortened 2 in. and a rebuilt power steering pump,lines and fittings ordered from Speed Direct.
A test drive this morning showed a little leak(retightened fittings and its sealed)but wow what a difference,NO SLOP:thumbs: no longer drives like a 78 Ford pickup!!!!

What do ya think?
Gimpy
 
BBShark said:
What is the advantage of the Grand Am tie rods?
Click to expand...
They are longer than stock (20 something inches),should reduce bump steer, and are rubber bushed loop on the inner end,less road shock to the rack,steering wheel.
Also if that bushing goes away the steel loop is a bit of a safety thing.And last of all Cheap,brand new @ $18 a side.
Gimpy
 
What year Grand Am and is it a left and a right side or 2 rights (or lefts) or ....?
 
gimpy said:
BBShark said:
What is the advantage of the Grand Am tie rods?
Click to expand...
They are longer than stock (20 something inches),should reduce bump steer, and are rubber bushed loop on the inner end,less road shock to the rack,steering wheel.
Also if that bushing goes away the steel loop is a bit of a safety thing.And last of all Cheap,brand new @ $18 a side.
Gimpy
Click to expand...

Have you bump steered it yet? In order to minimize bump steer, the inboard tie rod pivots need to be on the line between the inboard ends of the upper and lower control arm pivots. For a low mounted rack (in the plane of the lower control arm), then the tie rod length should be about the same length as the lower control arm. The best explanation, complete with illustrations, can be found in the technical section (page 64) of the Woodward Precision Steering catalog. Try this link: http://woodwardsteering.eu/images/basic rack and pinion tech.pdf If the tie rods are too long, the outboard end of the tie rod swings in a bigger arc than the ball joint line, and this pushes the steering arm out during suspension movement causing toe-in with both compression and droop. I would pull the front springs and bump steer the suspension to see what you've got. Not trying to be critical -- just trying to help. Good luck.

Pappy
 
Pappy, thank you for the link,much good reading!!
No I've not checked the bump steer yet, only a little drive to see how it functions.I've a 1/4 thk. alum. plate ready to be made into a GuntherC3 bump steer gauge.I'll post up the results soon.
Gimpy
 
gimpy said:
Pappy, thank you for the link,much good reading!!
No I've not checked the bump steer yet, only a little drive to see how it functions.I've a 1/4 thk. alum. plate ready to be made into a GuntherC3 bump steer gauge.I'll post up the results soon.
Gimpy
Click to expand...

Just offhand - got the plans for that GuntherC3 bump steer gauge?
I'l admit I haven't hit google just yet on that, Don't see it specifically loaded in the Downloads Section. Would be nice to have.

Cheers - Jim
 
Not much of a plan,just a 5 on 4 3/4 five bolt pattern with a hole in the center to clear the hub center,enough plate get out to the plane of the tread face,and 4 in. up/down for suspension travel.Oh yes a indicator(I've a couple of 1in. travel) and a mag. base.
Look up Gunther's set up.
Gimpy
 
6mm thick ? Wow, that seems to be a bit much..... The indicator spring load is not all that much, I would think a 16ga piece of sheetmetal from the hardware store would do the job.....
 
6mm thickness was the metal I had at the shop. You can use what you want or you think is right. :lol:
 
I'm not criticizing the 6mm thickness, I actually assumed already that you probably had it laying around and simply used what you had....
Just saying that 16ga (which is available at HomeDepot/Lowes) should be good enough and a sheet 18x24" is like $10 or so.....
:thumbs:
 
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