Who was it that was complaining about pulling the heads off in the car?

My point IS, just because you can get away with poor mechanical practise, because it's just a 350SBC, a very durable engine, does NOT mean you should.
If you pulled that crap on a classic DO6 Jag, it would explode upon start-up.
 
My point IS, just because you can get away with poor mechanical practise, because it's just a 350SBC, a very durable engine, does NOT mean you should.
If you pulled that crap on a classic DO6 Jag, it would explode upon start-up.


my point

IS

This is not a mission to the moon. And should not be treated as such.
 
My point IS, just because you can get away with poor mechanical practise, because it's just a 350SBC, a very durable engine, does NOT mean you should.
If you pulled that crap on a classic DO6 Jag, it would explode upon start-up.


my point

IS

This is not a mission to the moon. And should not be treated as such.

I understand that, and agree to an extent. Some guys ARE too over anal about some aspects that is a waste of time. I find spark plug indexing worthless.
I also believe in some basic mechanical practises.
There IS a happy medium, and some peoiple struggle for years trying to find it. I am happy with my own do and don't lists. Perhaps a thread on this would be good.
 
You gotta know that in some 45? years of working on various engines....

I pay attention to just ONE thing, lifter order over the cam.....and beleieve it or not.....

decades ago...maybe '71 or so, I put a used '67 Pontiac 400 cam from a GTO into a '72 350 Poncho engine....nothing but slip it into place and take the 350 lifters and put them back again....put the '67 Goat heads on it, and flew on....sold the car some 6 years later for 500 bux.....it was used as a delivery vechicle and even saw some TRACK TIME on a SCCA course....they called it 'Ralph the race car'....I shit you NOT, it was also used as a delivery vechicle....total miles on it was some 300GRAND....when the oil light finally came on to stay....drove it another 100 miles that way in city driving,....

I bought that TRANNY and console, and shifter back from my friends there, and used it over yet again in another car....a 70 Lemans/GTO 455 convertible.....used to tow a 2900 lbs boat over a 10% grade for some 4 miles.....going in at 80 and coming out at 100 mph at mountaintop.....figger total weight was some 8000 lbs....car, boat, kids, me, g/friend...top down cruising....just to hear the MOAN...and growl.....that is the car I bolted on a 425 Caddy DPFI induction on it....hell of a kludge but can't beat the throttle responce....1000 cfm tbody on a carb mani.....I still got that Kludge sitting in the garage....

I should photo it....think I will...and post here....

:ghost::crutches:
 
I use a cardboard box and punch holes in it for the bolts. Flat tray for the valve train.

Now that is cheap... LOL....did you get that idea from Turtle ???


I don't bother to keep track of the rocker and pushrod positions. More anal retentive BS.

I throw head, intake exhaust bolts, rockers, pushrods blah blah blah in a cardbord box. It soaks up all the oil. Then i put the box in recycling. And dirt grit mulch ect that gets on the stuff will come out in the first oil change.

Think about the clearance between the lifter and the lifter bore. And you think it's ok practice to drop the lifters in there with dirt on them? Have you ever heard of sandpaper? Same principle here. :bonkers: Of course it's going to work! You could pour sand directly into the engine and it would work. But for how long? And at what price? It's a PITA to get at a stuck lifter, and it's expensive to replace that lifter(s) and it's even more expensive to have your block machined more than is necessary when it's time for a rebuild.

Special at Kragen right now 2 bottles of Brake Cleaner for $4! Saves you money in the end. :thumbs:
 
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