Wheel bearing question

S

Surfer69

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Joined
Nov 13, 2009
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Location
Manhattan Beach, CA
If the rivets are still there in the hub either front or rear, does that mean the bearings were never replaced in the life of the car?

I have two with rivets and two without. Trying to solve a wobble problem which is either bearings or diff yoke end play issues.

THX
 
The front bearings can be easily be replaced with the brake rotor riveted to the hub, just take off the castle nut under the dust cap and remove the hub/rotor assembly.
Here's a pic of the spindle after the hub is pulled off:
IMG_4723.jpg

I highly doubt that someone would leave the rotors on the rear spindles and work on the bearings....
 
Surfer69 said:
If the rivets are still there in the hub either front or rear, does that mean the bearings were never replaced in the life of the car?
Click to expand...
Doesn't really confirm anything either way. The rotor could have been removed to be turned when the brakes were done. On the other hand I have done bearings without removing the rotor.
To be safe in the future rebuild your T arms,it will be worth it.
 
Surfer69 said:
If the rivets are still there in the hub either front or rear, does that mean the bearings were never replaced in the life of the car?

I have two with rivets and two without. Trying to solve a wobble problem which is either bearings or diff yoke end play issues.

THX
Click to expand...

I am not really following on this. Are you saying your rear wheel wobbles and you can't tell if its the bearing or the diff yokes?
 
Yes, that's part of all this. When the rear tire is hanging and I check for play there is movement but the yokes move also so its hard to understand if it's bearings or something with the yoke/diff.

But my main question is about the rivets.
 
As has been said the rivets are not conclusive especially on the front hubs. Bubba likes short cuts.

The yokes / diff have no effect on the wheel running true on the outer stub shaft but as the innner pivot of the upper control link (halfshaft) will infuence track, toe and camber if really sloppy.

Grampy
 
update: I took my RR half shaft off to see if I could adjust the inner castle nut tighter since I did feel some play in the wheel with no half shaft attached. Nut wouldnt budge. Checked yoke side play and the sucker moved at least .25 inch in and out but at least the clip is still attached.

Looks like time for new trailing arms and maybe rebuilt diff with new yokes. Start saving now maybe do it over Christmas vacation.

LR is actually pretty solid with no play so maybe I can get away with only one new trailing arm.
 
Surfer69 said:
update: I took my RR half shaft off to see if I could adjust the inner castle nut tighter since I did feel some play in the wheel with no half shaft attached. Nut wouldnt budge. Checked yoke side play and the sucker moved at least .25 inch in and out but at least the clip is still attached.

Looks like time for new trailing arms and maybe rebuilt diff with new yokes. Start saving now maybe do it over Christmas vacation.

LR is actually pretty solid with no play so maybe I can get away with only one new trailing arm.
Click to expand...

Have a look at my rebuild thread - I rebuilt two trailing arms with Johnny Joints and rebuilt the bearings, tons of pictures in my thread. Rebuild the bearings/spindles yourself, most of the stuff you can buy is not as perfect as if you do the job yourself.... it's not as difficult as you might think.

here are two links;

http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2315

http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2400
 
Thanks :)

These rebuilt arms are still sitting in my garage waiting to be installed.... :oh:

Be careful with rebuilt stuff you buy - many of these companies have it in the fineprint: "rebuilt by an independent vendor" or something like that... don't expect top notch work from some "we repair anything" kinda shop. Most if not all charge a high core value so you sent them your old parts .... once your parts are gone you're stuck with whatever they sent you. Many have reported excessive clearance on wheel bearing assemblies that were "rebuilt with all new parts".... well, at least the parts had a fresh shiny coat of Rustoleum black ...LOL
Nowadays it is difficult to find people who actually put some pride in their work, that's one reason I rather buy some tools and learn how to do it myself....
 
Surfer69 said:
update: I took my RR half shaft off to see if I could adjust the inner castle nut tighter since I did feel some play in the wheel with no half shaft attached. Nut wouldnt budge. Checked yoke side play and the sucker moved at least .25 inch in and out but at least the clip is still attached.

Looks like time for new trailing arms and maybe rebuilt diff with new yokes. Start saving now maybe do it over Christmas vacation.

LR is actually pretty solid with no play so maybe I can get away with only one new trailing arm.
Click to expand...

Some thoughts here. First if the bearings were originally setup correctly,whenever that was, you shouldn't have to check the spindle nut. It is set to 100+ ft/lbs and tightening it up would not have corrected the problem. The only way is to install new bearings,correct the wear areas on the shims,spacers,and flanges and assemble.

.250" of yoke endplay is way too much, the snap ring is off for sure since it's only .187 from the end of the yoke- unless you have a worn cross shaft hole in the case. I've had to fix these but the yoke endplay in most cases is in the .125 range you need to check this out. You may have worn yokes,loose clutches,and opened case hole. If so again this can be saved and made stronger then the new loaded Eaton 10 bolts.
 
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