Thinking of rebuilding my trailing arms.

Maymyvetteliveforever

Maymyvetteliveforever

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
220
Location
Ontario
I was wondering what is the hardest part of doing the "trailing arm rebuild"? I ask since I'm located in Canada and if I run into problems there isn't a member close by that can drop by to lend a hand and I want to be sure I'm comfortable in doing them.

Thanks
 
Get hold of Gary99? but Gary is up that way not so awful far away...

maybe he can help....

:cool:
 
The tools aren't cheap: you'll need a press ($100 here in the US, made in China of course) and a dial indicator with a magnetic base to measure endplay... then you need either a setup tool or a undersized spindle for the test fit... you'll need a local shop to grind your shims to size...

It's really not THAT difficult. If you run into a problem you can simply ask here :D

I have two or three threads in the rebuilding section with tons of photos (JohnnyJoint install is one of them).

When I did mine I got all the parts from Gary, don't buy the cheap China junk - that's what most vendors sell.... tools like the hydr. press is one thing but spindles and bearings and seals better be high quality stuff :thumbs:
 
Nothing is really "difficult", I'd say setting the endplay and measuring is (maybe) the most difficult part... time consuming because it has to be done correctly and with precision...
Pressing the new spindle into the carrier is difficult and a second pair of hands will make it a lot easier.

Wait.... getting the old trailing arms off the car is the most difficult part :D
 
MYBAD79 said:
Nothing is really "difficult", I'd say setting the endplay and measuring is (maybe) the most difficult part... time consuming because it has to be done correctly and with precision...
Pressing the new spindle into the carrier is difficult and a second pair of hands will make it a lot easier.

Wait.... getting the old trailing arms off the car is the most difficult part :D
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I agree but the most challenging thing I found was getting someone to grind a shim for me to get the end play in spec (once I found what I needed for a shim)
 
Stpman said:
I agree but the most challenging thing I found was getting someone to grind a shim for me to get the end play in spec (once I found what I needed for a shim)
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Agree.... the shims that come in these "kits" are often useless.... they come in like .005" increments and you're trying to set the endplay to .0015"

I bought my parts for the bearing rebuild from Gary (GTR1999) and then got the perfect size shim via "phone order" from him - I still can't believe how smooth this whole thing went.... :D

Gary or Mike (Tracdogg2).... you can't go wrong with either one :thumbs:
 
Got one side out and having one hell of a time seperating everything.

Will attempt to remove the drivers side from the car maybe tomorrow.
 
For the side that I already removed, yes I did cut the bolt with both sides of the shim removed. Once all the shims have been removed it's much easier to cut the T/A bolt. Problem with the drivers side is the inside shims won't budge and are lodged in the lower position so I can't get underneath to pry them in the up position to get a good hold on them.

Ny the way MYBAD79, luv that shade of Blue as well as the pace car spoilers, since they rule......as I'm sure you know!
 
Did you have to cut the trailing arm bolts to get the trailing arms off?

The repro trailing arm bolts are not the same. They have an overly extended threaded portion. When you slide them into the frame, the threads of the repro bolts will dig into the frame holes. You want to have an unthreaded shank portion of the bolt mate up to the frame holes.

What to do?

The two bolts that attach the differential torque bracket are the same as the trailing arm bolts. Use them. In their place you can use any generic bolt; preferably a grade 8. As I recall, the standard sizes of these bolts makes them a little too long. I used two grade 8 bolts and sawed off the ends to make their length correct.


(I'm pretty sure the torque brackets bolts are the same, that is. It's been a few years since I looked at the torque bracket bolts. Hopefully my memory is not playing a joke. )
 
Gotta question, I going to have to redo my t-arms at some point, they were redone with SS shims 15 years ago, and they were new arms at that point....so should withstand a rebuild when necessary one more time....

these bolts are a famous PIA for since forever...My thought is to replace the bolts with SS bolts off the HW store shelf....

or get hard? ones from McMaster-Carr??

anyone with any recommendations on that thought pattern...

I not scared of buying longer bolts and threading down to what I need, or for that matter stacking stainless washers to build out what needed because bolt is too long....

for that matter I can't believe the shear strength of two bolts even with a 1/2 inch of shims, is that weak as to require anything harder/stronger than a HWare store stainless bolt....

:gurney:
 
A grade 8 bolt can take more force than a SS bolt. When I remove my SS bolts from my trailing arms I can tell you if the SS material is up to the task or not... I'm curious what I'm going to find....

Gene, when you're ready to rebuild your trailing arms get quality bearings and seals from Mike or Gary, clean all your parts, throw them in your trunk and stop by... I have all the tools, won't take long to get the arms done :thumbs:

only thing is the friggin shims to set the bearing clearance... if we need a non standard size (which is likely) we'll have to see if one of the shops here has a surface grinder ...
 
Guys,

I have a small amatuer machine shop here in my garage and have a surface grinder. If you can schedule a week I can do them for you for just beer money:mobeer:
 
The hardest part is not scewing up, yeah I know a lot help that is!
Once you get them out then you have to follow my threads and check the arms to be sure they're still good, no one wrecked anything prior,and then clean and prep them. FIT everything before you even get to the bearings.
Parallel grind the spacer,shim,and flanges for both. Then you're ready to setup and grind the shim for 0015-002 endplay. DO NOT use Mobil 1 grease.
I use Timken grease works much better then Mobil 1, I'll never trust it again.

Good luck be sure you install the support on the correct sides,once the bearings are on removing them again to correct will wreck them most of the time.
 
mrvette said:
these bolts are a famous PIA for since forever...My thought is to replace the bolts with SS bolts off the HW store shelf....

or get hard? ones from McMaster-Carr??

I remember reading a post a long time ago, on another forum, where the poster said to stay with grade 5, the factory OEM bolt's rating. The idea was that the grade 5 has a little more flex in it than a grade 8. Working in shear, supposedly the ability to flex was a factor in getting the bolt to withstand more shock forces from the trailing arm.

...I just posted the above as a matter of interest. I don't know if the original poster had any special knowledge about his grade 5 versus grade 8 argument. One thing from my own observation is that the trailing arm bolt just slides into holes in the frame. The frame is relatively soft steel and it also of course can flex. If using a very hard trailing arm is a good idea, then there's a point where it's hardness advantage is offset by the fact that the frame is soft.

Also, I wonder how the trailing arm bolt can survive without lubricant. When I pulled the bolts out of my 68 (they weren't rust frozen) I could see some galling but not too bad. Seems like a good idea, when you slide your trailing arm bolts back into a newly bushed trailing arm, would be to put some dry lubricant on them.
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Click to expand...
 
Well folks I made another attempt and this time I'll show you what I'm up against. First keep in mind I've tried pretty well everthing that has been suggested. Sorry that the pictures may not be in sequence but I'm frustrated and tired. Also keep in mind this car only has 50k original miles.

I've removed the passenger side trailing arm but part of the inner bolt still remains and I can't remove it, even though the head has been cut off.

Gary/trackdogg, I wish I could have sent them to you for rebuild but this whole cross boarder thing is a bit of a pain. If it were just a matter of a couple parts it's one thing but trailing arms have a bit of weight to them and wouldn't be cost effective.

Now back to the drivers side which I'm having one hell of a time with.

I've cut off both ends as well as the outer side bolt and the trailing arm still won't come off. I'm using all brand name tools such as Milwalkee, Dewalt, Snap on etc. Blades are Torch ice, and Dewalt 10 tpi, 14tpi and 18tpi. I've well lubricated with oil, pb blaster etc. I haven't missed a thing.

The shims won't budge and the other side I actually sheared off.

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I think I may have cut through the shims so I thought I would work on the strut rod cam bolt and even after I've broke the head I still can't get it off, even with an impact hammer.
Before
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After
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I've tried using a impact chisel, in every direction, even trying to get inbetween every point and no luck.

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