superlite wheels

pro-touring

pro-touring

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Joined
Oct 19, 2008
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40
Location
Uddevalla in Sweden
Well i guess it´s time to put on some flares on this thing:).
Wheels are superlite 13"x18 rear and 12"x18" up front with Hoosier R6 tires.
Need to trim some fiberglas inside wheelhouse to get full turning radius up front.
Have custom image flared quarterpanels 2"front/4"rear, holding my thumbs they will swallow theese suckers!.
My plan is to start this project in a couple of weeks, also gonna put a rollcage in it.
superlite6.jpgsuperlite2.jpgsuperlite1-1.jpgsuperlite.jpg
 
Looks good, but you might want 4 in flares on the front.

Keep posting updates.
 
rtj said:
Looks good, but you might want 4 in flares on the front.

Keep posting updates.
Click to expand...
Yes it´s gonna be really tight with my front fenders, who sells the 4" front flares, ACI??.
Anyone have any experience driving with wide front wheels like this?, thinking maybe i need to install some sort of oilcooler for power steering?.
 
pro-touring said:
rtj said:
Looks good, but you might want 4 in flares on the front.

Keep posting updates.
Click to expand...
Yes it´s gonna be really tight with my front fenders, who sells the 4" front flares, ACI??.
Anyone have any experience driving with wide front wheels like this?, thinking maybe i need to install some sort of oilcooler for power steering?.
Click to expand...

:eek: with them tires on there....you be needing FENDER coolers.....:lol:
 
I have 15X12 on the rear and 15x10 on the front... you will be amazed at how hard you can corner... I suggest following the chassis prep section in the Power service manual and as much roll cage as you can get in the car... it will wander a bit on worn roads...
 
84rzv500r said:
I have 15X12 on the rear and 15x10 on the front... you will be amazed at how hard you can corner... I suggest following the chassis prep section in the Power service manual and as much roll cage as you can get in the car... it will wander a bit on worn roads...
Click to expand...
:thumbs:I did the front of frame when engine was out, do you think it´s worth the effort to pull the body off and fully weld the seems on frame when a 8 or 10 point rollcage going in?.
Also a little worried about the limited space between the roof-bar/head.
 
First of all..... even for me english language isn't the first skill !!!!

Yes, is an hydraulic e-brake. The system is quite simple, you need to split the brake hose going to the back and to connect the one coming from the cylinder in the "inlet" (which is where normally the oil reservoir is connected).
Then you need to connect the hose going to the rear brakes to the outlet of the e-brake cylinder.

When the lever is sitting down, the cylinder will act like a big hose.
When you pull the lever in the very forst part of the stroke the cylinder will block the oil inlet, allowing the building of the pressure inside and the braking of the rearend.

By the way my cage isn't directely welded to the frame.
I welded some short flanged tubes to the frame...... and then the cae is bolted to these small towers popping out from the body.

In this way was possible to prepare the cage (including the painting and the complete welding) before to istall it in the car.

In my opinion, if you install a 8-10 point cage, you don't really need the full welding of the frame.
In other words..... don't pull the body only to do this!!
 
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If you were prepping the car for competition pull the body and inspect the frame and weld... otherwise I agree as well no need to weld the top seams of the frame.... the cage will amaze you as well....
 
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