Roll cage install...pics

place the jackstands under the control arms and trailing arms, that way the weight is on the suspension but the car is raised.
 
I can pretty much accomplish that by putting the rear tires on and lowering it down onto old rally wheels and then using the lift to support the front under the a-arms

It's more adjustable
 
No, you want the FRAME to be level but with load on the suspension (so that the frame does not sag from being supported elsewhere). You have to do it with jackstands and then shim the stands to get the frame level. How else are you going to level the roof hoop or front bar, or whatever you're using??? Starting with a level frame is key to squaring the cage in.
 
I squared the frame and had the suspension loaded

I got the two side hoops in today and the top cross bar

Welds look ok other than one spot I buggered up a bit

I'll load the pics after I take my shower
 
Ok here we go

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These welds look like ass, it's a really awkward welding position

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Heres how I squared it

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Welds don't look that bad, welding sure gets a whole lot more difficult in those positions doesn't it :D

You can cheat, take a tig across those beads :) cleans them right up :D
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Welds don't look that bad, welding sure gets a whole lot more difficult in those positions doesn't it :D

You can cheat, take a tig across those beads :) cleans them right up :D
Click to expand...

It's like impossible in some spots :smash:

I really have a new respect for people who make them look great

If I ever do a cage again I'll learn to tig and borrow a tig welder lol
 
tig is even more difficult and near impossible with a foot control, you'll need a thumbcontrol to get into the tight areas.

How did you notch the tubing? Do you have a notcher or by hand? (I always do it by hand)
 
That's how I do it too, I use one of those flapper discs (preferrably a new one) and start grinding the side at an angle so it cuts a notch in the side, then do the other side anmd profile it with the tip of the flapper disc. It's quick and I only need to test fit it once or twice and then it'll be perfect. I did the suspension arms and everything that way. It'll get more tricky once you do complicated nested piping but still, very doable.

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That was about the hardest section I did.
 
I used one these, it takes awhile

No cuts to make it go faster

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Where should I add more gussets, I'm thinking under the rear main hoop cross bar. I'll also add them on the nascar door bars

And what do you think of the top hoop triangulation
 
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I think on the bars going to the engine compartment I'm going to just put them to right behind the steering box

Seems like a PITA to go in front of it

I can always add more

SVRA doesn't allow bracing in front of the a-arms
 
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IMO top hoop triangulation will give issues with head room. If you want to do it, go for it. I myself wouldn't do it.

The gusset you have should do, it neatly "ties" the forward bar into the rear downleg, that's all you need.
 
Here we go

I think I might bend the drivers side front runner so it welds on the side hoop a little higher

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FYI,

If you plan on running any SCCA events, they only allow 2 bends in the side hoops. That third bend that you use to get down to the main hoop is no longer allowed. I used to do that, but they stopped allowing that at least ten years ago. Its a shame because the extra bend allows you to get more clearance for the side of your head.
 
I was originally thinking about only doing 2 bends

But I think SVRA allows it, which If I ever race this car it will be with them

I won't be doing any SCCA racing in this car

Just hpde's for now


This is running the SVRA class that I would run, I think mine is a bit safer

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